This review has been completed
using a production-level E-300 camera. Product shots
have been reshot when necessary, and all sample photos
are from the production camera.
The Olympus EVOLT E-300 (it's just
called the E-300 outside of the U.S.) is the first
consumer digital SLR to use the FourThirds system.
The FourThirds system (co-developed by Olympus, Fuji,
and Kodak) was first seen on the Olympus E-1, which
was released in 2003. The E-300 takes many of the same
features used on the E-1, removes a few manual controls,
slows things down a bit, and boosts the resolution
from five to eight million pixels. The E-300 has a
rather unique design (to say the least), and build
quality isn't quite as nice as the E-1.
With a price of just $999 (including
a lens), the E-300 is an excellent value. There is
also some competition in this price range from the
likes of Canon, Nikon, and Pentax. How does the E-300
perform? Find out in our review!
What's in the Box?
The E-300 has a good bundle. Inside
the box, you'll find the following:
- The 8.0 effective Megapixel Olympus
E-300 camera body
- 14 - 45 mm, F3.5-5.6 Zuiko Digital
- BLM-1 lithium-ion rechargeable
- Battery charger
- Shoulder strap
- USB cable
- A/V cable
- CD-ROM featuring Olympus Master
- 211 page camera manual (printed)
As is the case with all D-SLRs, Olympus
does not include a memory card with the E-300, so you'll
have to factor that into the total purchase price.
Thankfully CompactFlash cards are inexpensive these
days. With its 8MP resolution, a large card is a necessity,
so I'd recommend 512MB at the very minimum. The EVOLT
supports Type II cards which currently come as large
as 8GB, I believe. The Microdrive is also supported,
though I can't recommend them based on past (negative)
The E-300 includes the 14 - 45mm,
F3.5 - F5.6 lens. Taking the E-300's 2X crop factor
into account, that lens would be equivalent to 28 -
90 mm on a 35 mm camera. You'll see how the lens performs
later in the review. The E-series cameras can use any
of the Zuiko Digital lenses on the market, and there's
now a pretty good selection of
The E-300 uses the same BLM-1 battery
as the E-1 did. This battery has a hefty 10.8 Wh of
energy, more than most batteries. Unfortunately Olympus
does not publish any battery life data for the E-300,
so I can't say how many photos or minutes of shooting
this translates into. Based on usage it seemed comparable
to other D-SLRs that I've tested.
When it's time to recharge, pop the
battery into the included BCM-2 charger. It takes a
sluggish five hours to fully charge the battery. This
isn't one of those handy "plug it right into the
wall" style chargers -- you must use a power cable.
For those in need of more power, there
are two options. The first is the HLD-3 battery grip
($100). This gives you double the battery life (it
uses two BLM-1s), plus an extra shutter release button,
tripod mount, and port for a remote shutter release
cable. If that's still not enough then there's the
HV-1 high voltage power pack. I don't know much about
it except that it costs a lot of money (several hundred
As far as accessories go, if you can
name any one accessory, it exists. That includes flashes
(including ring flashes), lenses, remote controls,
and camera cases. Far too many to list here!
Olympus includes their brand new Master
software with the EVOLT, and I have to say that they
did a great job with it. The first thing you'll probably
do with the software is transfer photos from your camera.
Once you've done that, you've got a nice thumbnail
view that you can organize by date or keywords. A calendar
view is also available.
It's easy to change the size of the
thumbnails, and everything was snappy on my PowerMac
If you want to edit a photo, that's
just a click away. You can rotate, crop, reduce redeye,
or do an "instant fix". If you want to adjust
the color balance, you can do that as well, as you
can see above.
Got a RAW file to edit? No problem!
You can change all the RAW parameters in Olympus Master,
including exposure, white balance, contrast, sharpness,
and saturation. You'll have to wait a few seconds to
see the changes, though.
The software can also be used to "stitch" together
several photos into one panoramic photo.
Sharing photos is easy: you can print
them or e-mail them right in the Master software. Naturally,
there's a slideshow feature available as well. And,
if you want to archive them to a CD or DVD, that's
Just like with their old Camedia Master
software, Olympus has a "Plus" version available
for $20 more. The Master Plus software adds movie editing
capabilities, more printing options, and the ability
to make Video CDs.
Unlike with their consumer-level cameras,
Olympus includes a full, printed manual with the EVOLT.
As camera manuals go, it's not bad. It won't win any
awards, but you'll find answers to your questions here.
Look and Feel
The E-300 looks radically different
from the E-1. It's probably the least attractive D-SLR
I've seen, but I figure most people don't buy cameras
like this based on their physical appearance (I hope
you note my sarcasm there). Here's a quick look at
the E-1 and E-300, side-by-side:
As you can see, the E-300 isn't nearly
as tall or deep as the E-1. In terms of width, the
E-300 is slightly wider. While it's still well-built,
the E-300 isn't as solid-feeling as the E-1. It's not
weatherproof like the E-1, either, but it none of the
other entry-level D-SLRs are either.
One of the major differences between
the E-1 and E-300 can be seen in the front view above.
On the E-1 and every other D-SLR, the mirror swings
up when you take a picture. On the E-300 it swings
to the side. The optical viewfinders are also different.
The E-1 has the traditional prism-based viewfinder,
while the E-300 has something called a TTL Optical
Porro Finder, which uses mirrors instead. As you can
see in the pictures, there's no bulge on the top of
the E-300 for the traditional viewfinder.
Like all D-SLRs, the E-300 is easy
to hold, though I don't like the big rubber protrusion
that sticks out from the right hand grip. The important
controls are within close reach of your fingers.
Speaking of which, here's a look at
how the E-300 compares with some of the competition
in terms of size and weight:
(W x H x D, excluding protrusions)
|Canon Digital Rebel
|| 5.6 x
3.9 x 2.9 in.
|| 5.7 x
4.2 x 2.8 in.
|Konica Minolta Maxxum
|| 5.1 x
4.2 x 3.1 in.
|| 5.5 x
4.4 x 3.1 in.
4.1 x 3.2 in.
x 3.4 x 2.5 in.
|Pentax *ist DS
|| 4.9 x
3.6 x 2.6 in.
It's not quite the smallest or lightest
D-SLR out there, but the E-300 is close.
Okay, let's take a tour of the camera
now, beginning with the front.
In this front view of the E-300 you
can get a better look at the side-swinging mirror.
You can also see the FourThirds lens mount, where you
can attach any Zuiko Digital lens. There's a decent
selection of lenses these days, though not nearly as
many as you could have on a Canon, Nikon, or Pentax
Sitting in front of the 8 Megapixel
CCD is something Olympus calls the Supersonic Wave
Filter (SSWF). This uses ultrasonic waves to literally "shake" dust
off the sensor. Anyone who has used a D-SLR for a while
knows how annoying dust on the sensor can be, and I'm
glad Olympus has done something about it on their E-series
Up at the top of the photo is the
E-300's pop-up flash -- and when they say "pop-up",
they mean it! That should be good news when we get
to the redeye test. Information about the flash range
was not available when this preview was written. In
addition to the built-in flash, the E-300 supports
an external flash via the hot shoe you'll see in a
To the right of the lens mount is
the release for the lens mount. That red thing to the
left of the E-300 logo does two things: it's the self-timer
lamp as well as the receiver for the (optional) remote.
While there's no dedicated AF-assist
lamp on the camera, if you pop up the built-in flash,
the camera will use it as a focusing aid. Best of all
you can set up the camera to not take a flash picture
in that situation, unlike some other D-SLRs. If you're
using an Olympus external flash, the camera will use
the AF-assist lamp on that.
On the back of the E-300 you'll find
a 1.8" "HyperCrystal" LCD display. This
display has 134,000 pixels, which is plenty. Do note
that the LCD is only used for reviewing shots in playback
mode and using the menus -- you cannot do a live "preview" before
you take a picture. This is true for 99% of D-SLRs
on the market (the Fuji S3 Pro does it... sort of).
Above the LCD is that new-style viewfinder
that I mentioned earlier. It's huge, and shows 94%
of the frame. Inside the viewfinder, on the right hand
side, you'll find various symbols and numbers showing
the current camera settings. I found them hard to see
in that position, and would've preferred them to be
on the bottom instead. A diopter correction knob focuses
what you're looking at through the viewfinder.
To the left of the LCD are five buttons:
- Flash setting (Auto, auto w/redeye
reduction, 1st-curtain slow sync, 2nd-curtain slow
sync, 1st-curtain slow sync + redeye reduction, fill
flash, fill flash w/redeye reduction, 2nd-curtain
slow sync w/redeye reduction)
- White balance (Auto, 3000K, 3600K,
4000K, 4500K, 6600K, 5300K, 6000K, 7500K, Custom
1-4, One-touch) - see below
- Image quality - see chart later
- Delete photo
- Info - see below
There are plenty of white balance
options to choose from on the E-300. First you can
do the usual daylight/cloudy/tungsten thing by choosing
one of the color temperatures in the list above (the
camera shows a little icon next to each temperature
so you know what you're picking). If that's not enough,
you can use the one-touch feature to shoot a white
or gray card to use as your reference for white. Still
not satisfied? You can also manually select a color
temperature between 2000K and 10000K. And finally,
you can use the white balance compensation feature
to tweak a chosen WB setting to your liking. Whichever
way you do it, you shouldn't have any white balance
worries on this camera.
Info screen in record
The info button can be used in two
ways. Pressing it in record mode shows the screen above
-- which replaces the LCD info display normally seen
on the top of a D-SLR. When you press one of the buttons
on the back of the camera, the item you are changing
is highlighted on this screen, so you can see what
you're changing. Pressing the info button in playback
mode shows various exposure data, including a histogram
-- but more on that later.
Over on the other side of the LCD
are even more buttons. The topmost button is to pop
up the flash. The next two are self-explanatory: playback
and menu. Below that is the four-way controller, which
is used for menu navigation and also:
- Up - Exposure compensation (-5EV
to +5EV, 1/3EV increments)
- Down - ISO (Auto, 100, 200, 400,
800, 1600) - to get the last two values on the list,
you must turn on ISO boost
- Left - Metering mode (ESP, center-weighted,
- Right - AF mode (Single AF, continuous
AF, manual focus, single AF + manual focus) - see
There are several focus modes on the
E-300. Single AF is the usual "press the shutter
release halfway to lock focus" mode. Continuous
AF works the same way, but it keeps focusing while
the shutter release is halfway-pressed. Manual focus
is just as it sounds -- you use the focus ring on the
lens to do the work yourself. Single AF + MF lets the
camera focus automatically first, and then you can
tweak things manually using the focus ring.
To the lower-right of the four-way
controller is the OK (for menus) button, which is used
for image protection in playback mode.
At the top-right of the photo are
the two final buttons on the back of the camera. These
include AE Lock and focus point selection. The E-300
has just three focus points: left, right, and center.
For the sake of comparison, there are seven focus points
on the Digital Rebel and five on the D70.
Something worth pointing out about
the kit lens is that it doesn't show the focus distance
on the lens, making manual focusing slightly more challenging.
Now onto the E-300's
hot shoe. This can take an Olympus (FL-20, FL-36,
or FL-50) or third-party flash. The Olympus flashes
integrated with the camera, and their AF-assist lamps
can be used as well. If you use a third-party flash
you'll have to manually choose its settings. The
camera can sync as fast as 1/180 sec with an external
flash, and 1/125 sec with studio strobes.
All the way over on the
other side you'll find the command dial, mode dial
(with power switch under it), and shutter release button.
A blue light illuminates when the Supersonic wave filter
is being used (at startup or when selected in the menu).
The command dial is used to change manual settings,
and is also used for zoom & scroll and thumbnail
view in playback mode.
The mode dial has the
||You choose the situation and the camera
uses the appropriate settings. Choose from
landscape, landscape + portrait, night scene,
night + portrait, fireworks, sunset, portrait,
high key (enhanced brightness), macro, documents,
museum, sports, beach & snow, and candle
||Same ones as in the scene mode
menu, but easier to access
||Still automatic, but with full menu access;
a program shift feature lets you choose from
several aperture/shutter speed combinations
|Aperture Priority mode
||You pick the aperture, the camera picks
the appropriate shutter speed; this will
vary depending on the lens you are using;
on the 14-45 that comes with the camera it
was F3.5 - F22
|Shutter Priority mode
||You choose the shutter speed and the camera
picks the correct aperture. You can choose
from a range of 30 - 1/4000 sec
|Full Manual mode
||You pick the aperture and shutter speed,
same values as above; a bulb mode lets you
take exposures as long as 8 minutes
I should mention that the scene mode
option gives you a description of each mode as well
as a typical photo that you'd take in that situation.
More cameras should have this.
The only things worth mentioning here
are the E-300's I/O ports, which are kept behind rubber
covers. Behind the top door you'll find the USB and
video out ports. The camera supports USB 2.0 Full Speed,
which is marketing-speak for the old, slow USB 1.1.
Behind door #2 is the DC-in port for the optional AC
Over on the other side, you'll find
the CompactFlash slot, which is behind a reinforced
plastic door. This is a Type II slot, so the Microdrive
and other high capacity cards are fully supported.
On the bottom of the camera you'll
find a metal tripod mount as well as the battery compartment.
This compartment is protected by a sturdy door with
a locking mechanism.
The tripod mount is inline with the
lens, as you'd expect on an SLR.
The included BLM-1 battery is shown
Using the Olympus E-300
It takes about 2 seconds for the E-300
to "warm up" before you can start taking
pictures. While that's comparable to the Digital Rebel,
the Nikon D70 is ready to go instantly.
While I wasn't wowed by its autofocus
speeds, the E-300 focuses fairly quickly, and faster
than most fixed-lens cameras out there. In low light,
the EVOLT's flash-based AF illuminator allows it to
focus in almost total darkness -- very nice.
As for shutter lag, there really isn't
any. That's why you're interested in a digital SLR,
And, as you'd expect from a D-SLR,
you can shoot as fast as you can compose the next shot
-- at least until the buffer fills up. When shooting
at the SHQ, RAW, or TIFF setting, that happens after
about four photos.
There is no way to delete a photo
after it is taken -- you must enter playback mode.
Now, here's a look at the numerous
image quality options available on the E-300:
||Approx. file size
||# images on
|| 3264 x 2448
|| 3264 x 2448
|| 3264 x 2448
|| 3264 x 2448
||3200 x 2400
|2560 x 1920
|1600 x 1200
The E-300 supports both the RAW and
TIFF formats. RAW images are unprocessed image data
straight from the camera. The beauty of RAW format
is that a) they're smaller than TIFFs and b) they allow
you to manipulate photos without losing any quality.
Botch the white balance? Just change it later and it's
just like taking the shot again. The disadvantage?
You must process the images on your Mac or PC in order
to export them to other formats. You can choose to
have a JPEG image saved along side the RAW image, which
comes in handy (if the JPEG looks good, why bother
processing the RAW image?).
TIFF format is uncompressed image
data that takes up a lot of space on your memory card,
without any of the benefits of RAW.
Olympus uses one of the better file
numbering systems that I've seen. Files are named Pmdd####.jpg,
where m is the month (1-9, A-C), d is the day, and
#### is 0001-9999. This way your file numbers are always
unique (well, for one year at least). File numbering
is maintained as you erase and switch memory cards.
Let's discuss the menu system now!
The E-300 uses the same easy-to-use
menu system as its big brother. The menu is divided
into five "tabs": shooting 1 & 2, playback,
and custom 1 & 2. Here are the menu options:
- Shooting menu 1
- Exposure compensation (-5EV
to +5EV, 1/3EV increments)
- Image quality (RAW, TIFF,
SHQ, HQ, SQ, RAW+SHQ, RAW+HQ, RAW+SQ)
- Flash setting (Auto, auto
w/redeye reduction, 1st-curtain slow sync,
2nd-curtain slow sync, 1st-curtain slow sync
+ redeye reduction, fill flash, fill flash
w/redeye reduction, 2nd-curtain slow sync w/redeye
- AF mode (Single AF, continuous
AF, manual focus, single AF + manual focus)
- I described all of these earlier
- White balance (Auto, 3000K,
3600K, 4000K, 4500K, 6600K, 5300K, 6000K, 7500K,
Custom 1-4, One-touch)
- ISO (Auto, 100, 200, 400,
- Metering (ESP, center-weighted,
- Focus point (Auto,
left, center, right)
- Shooting menu 2
- Card setup (All erase, format)
- Drive (Single shot, continuous,
bracketing, self-timer, remote control) - see
- Flash exposure compensation
(-2EV to +2EV, 1/3EV increments)
- One-touch white balance (on/off)
- set this up
- Function (Off, black & white,
- Gradation (Low key, normal,
high key) - I believe this is brightness or
perhaps dynamic range
- Saturation (±2)
- Contrast (±2)
- Sharpness (±2)
- White balance bracketing
(Off, 3 frames/2 step, 3 frames/4 step, 3 frames/6
steps) - more below
- HQ (1/4, 1/8) - choose the
amount of compression used for this setting
- SQ (see chart) - choose image
size and compression for this setting
- Noise reduction (on/off)
- reduces noise in long exposures; doubles
- Playback menu
- Slide show (1, 4, 9, 16)
- start the slide show and choose number of
pictures per screen
- Image rotation
- RAW data edit - discussed
- DPOF print marking
- Custom 1
- EV step (1/3EV, 1/2EV, 1EV)
- ISO boost (on/off) - gives
you access to ISO 800/1600
- Manual flash (on/off) - when
on you can set the flash strength manually;
choose from full, 1/4, 1/16, or 1/64 strength
- White balance tuning (-7
to +7, in 1 step increments) - fine tune each
white balance setting; 1 step = 20K
- Custom WB (CWB 1-4) - manually
select the color temp for four different settings;
range is 2000K - 10000K
- AF illuminator (on/off) -
the camera uses the flash for this; you must
pop up the flash first, though!
- AE Lock metering (Auto, ESP,
- Custom OK (Off, shortcut,
preview, AF/MF) - choose what this button does
in record mode
- Custom 2
- Reset camera
- File naming (Auto, reset)
- Rec view (Off, auto, 5 sec,
20 sec) - for post-shot review
- Beep (on/off)
- LCD brightness (-7 to +7,
- Sleep (Off, 1, 3, 5, 10 min)
- PC mode (Auto, storage, control,
- Language (English, French,
German, Spanish, Portuguese)
- Video out (NTSC, PAL)
- Pixel mapping (on/off) -
removes "hot pixels"
- Cleaning mode - removes
dirt from sensor by using the "Supersonic
- Reset lens (on/off)
- Erase setting (yes/no) -
customize the cursor position on the delete
- Color space (sRGB, Adobe
- Focus ring (Clockwise, counterclockwise)
- choose which way you want to rotate the focus
ring in manual focus mode
- Firmware - for body and attached
There are a few things in the menus
that I want to touch on quickly. First are the various
drive modes. Continuous shooting mode lets you take
shots at 2.5 frames/second, with a limit of 4 images,
whether at SHQ, RAW, or TIFF, which isn't great. Dropping
the quality setting down a notch results in much better
numbers -- I was able to keep shooting at the HQ setting.
Auto bracketing takes three shots in a row, each with
a different exposure value. You can choose from a ±0.3, ±0.7,
or ±1.0EV interval. White balance bracketing
is similar. The first shot is taken with the chosen
white balance, the second slightly bluer, and the third
Well, enough about menus, let's do
photo tests now.
I had a heck of a time with the
usual macro shot. First of all, the kit lens is hardly
a macro lens, with a minimum focus distance of 38 cm
(Olympus makes a macro lens that does a lot better --
in fact I use it for my product shots) -- so I had to
move the subject pretty far away. Then, I just couldn't
get good white balance, so I ended up shooting in RAW
and adjusting it later in software. After all was said
and done, I got a decent result from the EVOLT. The subject
isn't overly sharp -- it's pretty soft and smooth. After
I fooled around with the white balance a bit, I was satisfied
with the colors of our subject.
The E-300 did a pretty good job with
the night test shot. Like with the macro shot, it was
softer then I would've liked, but remember that sharpness
can be changed in the camera menu if you desire. With
full manual control over shutter speed (including an
8 minute bulb mode), taking in enough light for shots
like this is easy. Purple fringing was not a major
problem in this photo.
Using that same scene, let's take
a look at how adjusting the ISO sensitivity affects
the noise levels in images. You can click on the thumbnail
to see the full size images.
The camera does a good job at keeping
noise levels low all the way through ISO 400. Things
start getting worse at ISO 800, and by ISO 1600 you're
losing detail. I do think the other D-SLRs in this
class do a little better in terms of high ISO noise
than the E-300.
There's very little barrel distortion
to be found at the wide end of the 14 - 45 mm lens
that comes with the E-300. What you can see here is
a bit of vignetting (dark corners), and I spotted this
in one of my real world photos as well. So this kit
lens isn't perfect, but it was pretty solid in most
of my shots.
There was no redeye to be found in
our flash test -- yay!
Overall, the E-300's image quality was very good, though
not quite as good as I would expect from a D-SLR, at
least at its default settings. Photos were generally
well-exposed, with accurate color and low levels of
noise and purple fringing. At the same time, they seemed
somewhat soft, with details seeming "muddy" at
times. I think this is more of an image processing
issue rather than a testament to the quality of the
kit lens. Check this out:
I took these pictures at the same
time. First, I used the kit lens, and took the above
photo in RAW+SHQ mode. You can compare the original
SHQ JPEG with the RAW image that I converted to a JPEG
in Olympus Master. You'll see subtle differences in
sharpness and color, with the converted RAW image being
more pleasing to the eye (in my opinion). To see if
the kit lens was producing the soft images, I also
tested the Zuiko 14-55 lens that I happen to have sitting
around. The differences were minor at best. Thus, I
think that you'll get the best results from the E-300
by shooting in RAW mode. I know it's a pain and all,
but unfortunately that's the way things worked out.
You could still shooting in SHQ mode for most purposes,
though, reserving RAW mode for large format prints.
Don't just take my word for it, though.
View our photo gallery and
print the photos as if they were your own. Then decide
if the E-300's photo quality meets your expectations!
No digital SLR would be caught dead
The E-300 has a playback mode typical
of those on D-SLRs. The usual features are here, including
slide shows, DPOF print marking, image protection,
thumbnail view, and zoom and scroll. The camera is
PictBridge-enabled for direct printing to a compatible
The zoom and scroll feature lets you
blow up the image by a factor of up to 10 and then
You can rotate and resize photos,
or change them to black & white or sepia by using
the JPEG/TIFF edit function.
The RAW edit feature lets you apply
the current camera settings to a RAW image. Did you
botch the white balance? Choose the settings you wanted
to use, then use RAW data edit to fix your image (the
original RAW image is saved). For more control, use
the Olympus Viewer or Studio software on your computer.
By default the E-300 doesn't tell
you much about the photos you have taken. But by pressing
the Info button, you can cycle through various screens
full of exposure data, including a histogram.
The camera moves through photos instantly
in playback mode.
How Does it Compare?
The Olympus EVOLT E-300 is a very
good digital SLR whose most impressive feature is its
price. Okay, maybe the dust removal feature is up there
too. Anyhow, the E-300 gives you more resolution than
any of the low cost D-SLRs out there, though the photos
seem softer and fuzzier than I would expect from a
D-SLR. One solution to this problem is to shoot in
RAW mode and then convert the images to JPEGs -- this
improved sharpness and color too. In addition, high
ISO performance isn't quite as good as those cameras.
But for $999 (with the lens) you get a heck of a camera.
Camera performance is what you'd expect from a D-SLR,
with pretty fast focusing, no shutter lag, and fast
shot-to-shot times. The Nikon D70 does beat the EVOLT
in terms of startup and continuous shooting performance,
though. In terms of features, the EVOLT has plenty,
from full manual controls to custom white balance to
support for RAW and TIFF images. While the camera doesn't
have a dedicated AF-assist lamp, it will use the built-in
flash for that purpose, and the flash does its job
well. Being a D-SLR, the E-300 is totally expandable,
with several lenses, flashes, filters, and more available.
As you'd expect from a totally new system (FourThirds),
there aren't as many accessories out there as you'd
find for the Canon, Nikon, or Pentax cameras. (Updated
So what's not to like about the EVOLT?
I already mentioned the photo quality... so here are
some other niggles. The kit lens is good for the most
part, though I was surprised to see some vignetting
show up. The camera is quite well built for the price,
though it isn't as easy to grip as the competition
(my opinion, yours may differ). The EVOLT only supports
the old, slow USB 1.1, which is a shame considering
the size of these images.
Overall the E-300 gets my recommendation.
If I was buying an entry-level SLR I would probably
lean toward the D70 due to its superior performance
and image quality, unless having 2 million more pixels
was of absolute importance. The E-300 easily bests
the Digital Rebel, but if I were a betting man I'd
say that the Rebel is due for a replacement soon that
will help it match or beat the competition.
What I liked:
- Very good photo quality (but see
- Great deal for an 8MP D-SLR with
- Full manual controls
- Robust performance
- Many white balance options, including
ability to set the color temperature
- Solid low light focusing performance
- No redeye
- As with all D-SLRs, its expandable
- RAW, RAW+JPEG, TIFF image formats
- Dust removal system is awfully
What I didn't care for:
- Images seem a bit soft, with muddy
details; high ISO performance not quite as good as
- Very occasional vignetting from
- No USB 2.0 High Speed
- Burst mode, startup time a little
slower than D70
- Only three focus points
Other digital SLRs to consider include
the Canon Digital
Rebel and EOS-20D ($$), Konica
Minolta Maxxum 7D ($$), Nikon
E-1, and the Pentax
As always, I recommend a trip down
to your local reseller to try out the EVOLT and its
competitors before you buy!
See how the photos turned out in
Want another opinion?
Read more at Steve's
Photography Review, and Imaging
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