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The Konica
Minolta DiMAGE A2 ($1099 list price) is the 8 Megapixel version
of the popular DiMAGE A1 camera from 2003. If you don't know anything
about the A1, here's what you missed: it features a unique CCD with
image stabilization, which gives you 2-3 more stops than a non-stabilized
camera. Simply put, you can handhold the camera at slower shutter
speeds than you could with a regular camera. Add a 7X Minolta GT
lens, full manual controls (and then some), flip-up LCD display,
predictive autofocus, and robust performance, and you've got quite
a camera. Three other features new to the A2 include a super high
resolution electronic viewfinder (EVF), high resolution movie mode,
and support for USB 2.0 high speed.
There
are a bunch of great 8 Megapixel cameras out there. How does
the A2 hold up? Find out now!
Please
note that due to the similarities between the two cameras,
I will be reusing a lot of text from the A1 review here.
What's
in the Box?
The
DiMAGE A2 has an average bundle. Inside the box, you'll find:
- The
8.0 effective Megapixel DiMAGE A2 camera
- NP-400
lithium-ion rechargeable battery
- Battery
charger
- Neck
strap
- Lens
cap
- Lens
hood
- Accessory
shoe cap
- USB
cable
- A/V
cable
- 179
page camera manual + software manual (both printed)
- CD-ROM
featuring DiMAGE Viewer Utility and drivers
The
latest trend on high end digital cameras is to not even include
a memory card with the camera. Of the 8 Megapixel models out
thus far, only the Olympus C-8080WZ and Canon PowerShot Pro1
include one. So unless you have a large CompactFlash collection,
be prepared to buy a card -- a big card. I'd recommend a 256
or even 512MB card to start with. The A2 can use Type I or Type
II CompactFlash cards, including the Microdrive. It also supports
the FAT32 format, so you can use cards larger than 2GB.
The
DiMAGE A2 uses the same NP-400 battery as its predecessor. This
battery has a whopping 11.1 Wh of energy -- beating out Olympus'
BLM-1 for the "most powerful battery" award. All that
juice translates into impressive battery life. Minolta estimates
that you can take about 280 pictures, or spend four hours
in playback mode, per charge. That's a bit less battery life
than on the A1. Do note the usual disadvantages of proprietary
batteries like this one: price ($45 a pop) and the fact that
you can't "bail yourself out" with AAs when your rechargeables
die.

When
you're ready to charge the NP-400, just snap it into the included
charger. It takes about 2.5 hours to fully charge the battery.
This isn't one of those "plug it right into the wall" chargers
that I like so much -- there's a power cable.
If
one battery just isn't enough for you, then consider buying the
BP-400 battery pack ($100). It holds two NP-400 batteries,
or six AAs (you'll get more battery life with the NP-400s), giving
you 560 photos or 8 hours of playback time per charge! In addition
to the extra battery life, there's also a shutter release button,
used when the camera is held vertically.
Another
power option is the EBP-100, an 3200 mAh external battery pack
($275, ouch) that I know nothing else about.

Minolta
includes a lens cap and lens hood with the camera. I could not
find a retaining strap for the lens cap in the box, so you may
want to buy one.
 |
 |
| Wide
conversion lens |
Tele
conversion lens |
There
are quite a few accessories available for the A2, including conversion
lenses (which also work with the A1, by the way). The ACT-100
1.5X telephoto adapter ($170) brings the top end of the zoom
up to 300 mm. The ACW-100 0.8X wide-angle adapter ($170) lowers
things down to 22.4 mm -- nice. You can also add filters, as
the lens is threaded for 49mm attachments, and a 49 - 62mm step-up
ring is available too ($15).
Like
external flashes? You can choose from three regular flashes (2500,
3600HS, and 5600HS) as well as a ring flash or two. The camera
works with wireless flashes -- just follow the easy instructions
in the manual. A PC sync cable adapter is also available.
Other
accessories include two remote shutter release cables ($37-40),
an AC adapter ($55), and a carrying case ($40).

DiMAGE Viewer edit screen
Included
with the camera is version 2.3.2 of the Minolta's DiMAGE Viewer
software. It's not a substitute for something like Photoshop,
but it does lets you adjust things like hue, saturation, brightness,
and much more. The software is Mac OS X native and, of course,
works with modern versions of Windows. The Mac version seemed
buggy.

DiMAGE
Viewer can also be used to view, edit, and convert images saved
in RAW format. One the great things about RAW mode is that you
can do a virtual re-shoot of your photo. For example, the photo
above was taken at auto white balance, and just didn't look right
(too yellow). All I had to do was change the white balance to
tungsten and it was fixed instantly!
If
you're just looking to connect your camera and transfer files,
you'll be pleased to hear that the A2 is Windows XP and OS X
compatible -- and you probably won't have to install any drivers.
Also
included with the camera is a Windows-only version of Ulead's
VideoStudio 7SE. This lets you edit video and create video CDs
(VCDs).

An
optional software product that you may be interested in is DiMAGE
Capture ($99). As you can see, this you control your camera from
you Windows PC over the USB connection (no Mac version is available).
Images are saved directly to your computer, and virtually all
camera functions can be controlled with the software.
Minolta's
manuals have always been much better than average, and the A2's
is no exception. Expect long, descriptive paragraphs, without
a lot of fine print.
Look
and Feel
The
DiMAGE A2 is fairly large camera, so don't expect to be storing
it in your pockets. It's well-built, with a metal frame and sturdy
parts (with the exception of the cover over the memory card slot).
The camera is very easy to hold, with a substantial right hand
grip and plenty of room for your left hand as well.
Here's
a look at the dimensions and weight of the DiMAGE A2 and how
it compares to the competition:
| |
Dimensions
(WxHxD) |
Volume
(bulk) |
Mass |
| Canon
PowerShot Pro1 |
4.6
x 2.8 x 3.5 in. |
45.1
cu. in. |
545
g |
| Minolta
DiMAGE A2 |
4.5
x 3.4 x 4.5 in. |
68.9
cu. in. |
565
g |
| Nikon
Coolpix 8700 |
4.5
x 4.1 x 3.1 in. |
57.2
cu. in. |
480
g |
| Olympus
C-8080WZ |
4.9
x 3.3 x 3.9 in. |
63.1
cu. in. |
660
g |
| Sony
Cyber-shot DSC-F828 |
5.3
x 3.6 x 6.2 in. |
118.3
cu. in. |
955
g |
As
you can see, it's one of the larger cameras, but it's not too heavy.
Let's
dive into our tour of the A2 now, beginning with the front of
the camera.

The
A2 uses the same lens as the A1 as well as the old DiMAGE 7-series
cameras - an F2.8-3.5, 7X optical zoom Minolta GT lens. The focal
range is 7.2 - 50.8mm, which is equivalent to 28 - 200mm. The
lens is threaded for 49 mm attachments, and also supports the
two conversion lenses I mentioned earlier.
Directly
above the lens is the A2's pop-up flash. The flash has a working
range of 0.5 - 3.8 m at wide-angle, and 0.5 - 3.0 m at telephoto
(at auto ISO). The flash has a recharge time of approximately
5 seconds. As I mentioned, you can add a Minolta-branded external
flash via the hot shoe you'll see in a moment. The flash is released
manually -- just grab it and pop it up.
Just
above that "AS/8.0M" label on the camera is the self-timer
lamp, and what I think is the infrared transmitter for using
a wireless flash.
Those
metal things on the grip are called the grip sensor. This tells
the camera that you're holding the camera, which turns on full-time
autofocus (assuming you've turned on this option). This feature
helps preserve battery life, by not constantly focusing when
you're not ready to shoot.
There's
no AF-assist lamp on the A2.

The
A2's flip-up LCD display can tilt up 90 degrees, and you can
also pull it out toward you. It's nice, but not quite as good
as screens that rotate as well.
Another
thing that tilts is the electronic viewfinder, or EVF. It can
flip upward 90 degrees, just like the LCD.
I'll
have more on both of those in a second.

Here's
the LCD in the more traditional position. The screen is 1.8" in
size, which is typical for cameras like this. The resolution
is fairly high, with 118,000 pixels. Images are sharp and motion
is fluid, except in low light, when the camera turns up the "gain" so
you can see what you're looking at. That's a tradeoff I'm willing
to live with. You can adjust the LCD brightness in the setup
menu.
One
of the new features on the A2 is its "super fine" electronic
viewfinder (EVF), and it lives up to the hype. This screen, with
a whopping 922,000 pixels, is the best EVF I've used. Everything
is so sharp, it puts other EVFs to shame. Even better, it's viewable
in low light just like the LCD.
The
EVF has an eye sensor, which turns on the screen when your eye
is up against it. This only works while the display mode switch
is set to "auto". I did find it a little too easy to
set off the sensor, though. For example, while wearing a hat,
you can turn it on while viewing the LCD. My workaround was to
tilt the EVF so that it pointed toward the sky (or just set force
the camera to use the LCD).
To
the right of the EVF is the power/mode switch. In addition to
turning the camera on and off, this switch also moves between
record, playback, and movie mode.
Below
that is the button for adjusting exposure compensation. The range
is the usual -2EV to +2EV, in 1/3EV increments.
To
the lower-left of that button is the aforementioned display mode
switch. You can choose the EVF, LCD, or automatic (uses the EVF
when your eye is near it, otherwise it uses the LCD).
To
the right is the four-way controller, which is used for menu
navigation as well as the "flex focus point" feature.
This lets you select a spot in the frame for the camera to focus
on -- a feature most useful when your camera is on a tripod.
Continuing
downward, we find three buttons:
- QuickView
{record mode} / Delete photo {playback mode}
- Menu
- Anti-Shake
{record}
The
QuickView feature is the fast way to playback mode. Turning on
Anti-Shake activates the image stabilizer, and you'll know it's
on when the button turns green. On a typical (read: non-stabilized)
camera, the average person can take a sharp photo at 1/60 second
(some folks can do 1/30 sec or slower). The stabilizer will let
you get a sharp shot at even slower speeds -- 1/15 sec and maybe
even slower than that.
How
well does it work? I used the A2's movie mode to demonstrate
how this feature greatly reduces camera shake. The first half
of the movie is with Anti-shake turned off, while the second
half has it turned on. Have
a look (592k download).
Below
those buttons, under a rubber cover, you'll find two I/O ports:
- DC-in
(for AC adapter, power packs)
- Remote
(for wired remote shutter release cable)
The
final items on the back of the camera can be found at the top-right
of the photo. The AE Lock button locks the exposure for as long
as you have the button held down. Above that is the command dial,
which is used to adjust manual settings (i.e. shutter speed,
aperture).

The
first thing to see on the top of the camera is the hot shoe.
As I mentioned, you can choose from many Minolta flashes, and
can even control your flashes wirelessly! Only Minolta flashes
are supported, as far as I know. A PC flash sync port on the
side of the camera is available for off-cameras and non-Minolta
flashes. The camera can sync as fast as 1/250 sec.
Moving
to the right, you can find the LCD info display -- which seems
to be a rarity these days. The info display shows aperture and
shutter speed, shots remaining, battery capacity, and more. As
you can see, it's also backlit -- it lights up whenever you press
a button on the camera. Nice.
Below
the info display are two buttons. The "i+" button toggles
the information shown on the LCD and EVF. The magnification button
has two functions. If the 2X digital zoom is turned on, pressing
the button activates it. If you've got the "flex digital
magnifier" feature turned on, you can enlarge your image
by 3.3 times, and then move around in the frame. It can only
be used in manual focus mode, where you'll find it helpful for
making sure that your subject is in-focus.
The
next item over is the A2's mode dial, which has the following
options:
- Night
portrait
- Sunset
- Sports/action
- Portrait
- Memory
recall - store up to five sets of camera settings that you
can easily access on the mode wheel
- Auto
record - point-and-shoot; camera shoots at default settings
(though you can change them)
- Program
mode - same as auto mode, except camera remembers the settings
you're using
- Aperture
priority - you choose aperture, camera selects appropriate
shutter speed; aperture range is F2.8 - F11
- Shutter
priority - you choose shutter speed, camera chooses aperture;
shutter speed range is 30 - 1/4000 sec (a smaller range than
on the A1); Do note that as you turn up the ISO sensitivity
that the slowest available shutter speed gets faster (if that
makes sense); for example, at ISO 64 it's 30 seconds, while
at ISO 400 it's 8 seconds
- Manual
mode - you select both the shutter speed and aperture; same
ranges as above; a 30 second bulb mode is also available
In
program mode, you can use the "program shift" feature
by using either of the command dials. This lets you scroll through
various shutter speed / aperture combinations. An example of
when you'd use it is when you want to use a smaller aperture
(for more depth-of-field) without having to use aperture priority
mode.
To
the north of the mode dial is the microphone, with another command
dial and the shutter release button above that.

There's
a lot to see on this of the camera. In case you haven't figured
it out yet, the A2 (like its predecessors) is a complex camera.
Reading the manual is highly recommended.
The
first thing to talk about is the zoom controller. Like with the
DiMAGE 7-series and A1 before it, the A2's zoom is controlled
manually by rotating the lens barrel. The 35mm-equivalent focal
range is shown on the lens barrel, and there are marking for
the macro position as well. As you'd expect, the level of control
is far greater than on your typical camera with push-button zoom
controllers.
The
macro switch locks the lens at either 28mm or 200mm -- the two
available macro positions. I'll have more on the macro mode later
in the review.
The
next item over is the manual focus ring, which works electronically,
as opposed to mechanically like the zoom ring. Just rotate it
to adjust the focus. More on this in a few paragraphs.
Moving
to the upper-right part of the picture (just above the DiMAGE
A2 label), you'll find another dial. This one (known as the function
dial) controls some of the most commonly-accessed camera settings,
including:
- ISO
(Auto, 64, 100, 200, 400, 800)
- White
balance (Auto, daylight, tungsten, fluorescent, cloudy, shade,
flash, custom) - more below
- Drive
- Single-frame
- one shot at a time
- Bracketing
- you can bracket exposure, filters, color, and contrast
(more on those last three in a minute); camera takes
three shots in a row at either ±0.3EV or ±0.5EV
- Continuous
- takes up to three photos at approx. 2 frames/sec
- High-speed
continuous - takes up to three photos at approx. 2.7
frames/sec; each shot is not shown on the LCD as it is
taken (unlike regular continuous mode), making it pretty
useless for action shots
- Ultra
high speed (UHS) continuous - camera takes VGA-sized
images at 7 frames/second; it can keep shooting for a
long time; images are shown on LCD making it great for
capturing action
- Interval
- take a series of images over time; you choose the number
of photos to be taken (2 - 240), the interval between
photos (30 sec - 60 min), and the amount of time before
shooting begins (0 - 24 hrs)
- Interval
+ time-lapse movie - same as above, but a 640 x 480 movie
(4 frames/sec) is also created from the stills
- Self-timer
- 2 or 10 second
- Metering
(Multi-segment, center-weighted, spot)
- Custom
- you can pick what goes here; choose from image size/quality,
flash mode, flash control, sharpness, color mode; press the
center button on the function dial while in this mode for a
depth-of-field preview
- Memory
set - save up to five sets of camera settings for later retrieval
As
you can see, plenty to talk about. The A2 has several white balance
modes, including a manual mode where you can shoot a white or
gray card to get perfect color in any lighting. You can save
up to three manual WB values for later use. By using the command
dial on the back of the camera, you can fine-tune any of the
white balance modes (except for auto and manual). The levels
are -2 to +4 for fluorescent, and -3 to +3 for everything else.
Back
to the tour now. The items below the function dial include the
A2's speaker as well as flash sync port.
Below
that is yet another dial (known as the digital effects controller),
with the following options:
- Filter
(-5 to +5, in 1-stop increments)
- Contrast
(-5 to +5, in 1-stop increments)
- Saturation
(-5 to +5, in 1-stop increments)
The
filter feature isn't something you see everyday. In color mode,
a higher filter number will "warm" the colors, while
a lower number will "cool" them. In black and white
mode, each value (0 to 10 in this case) has a different color
tone. For example, choosing filter level 4 will give you a greenish-monochrome
image. The back inside cover of the manual has an example of
how the filters work.
You
can use bracketing for each of the items on the digital effects
controller -- cool!

Manual focus
Back
to our tour again. Below the digital effects controller is the
focus switch. It moves between single, continuous, and manual
focus. In continuous AF mode, the camera will keep focusing on
your subject, even if it's moving -- great for action shots.
In manual focus mode, you'll use the focus ring to change the
current focus distance. The magnification feature described earlier
makes sure that your subject is properly focused.
To
the left of that switch is the manual white balance button. This
is what you'll press when you want to shoot that white or gray
card.
Finally,
we're done with this side of the A2 and can move on!

Thankfully,
there are no buttons on this side of the camera. What you will
find here is the CompactFlash slot, which is (still) protected
by a flimsy plastic door. The A2 supports both Type I and Type
II CompactFlash cards, including the Microdrive.
Under
a rubber cover just left of the CF slot is the port for A/V and
USB (one port for both). The A2 supports USB 2.0 high speed,
which certainly helps when transferring those huge files!
I've
also shown the lens at it's full telephoto position, so you can
see how far it sticks out from the camera body. The view of the
other side of the camera showed the lens at full wide-angle.

On
the bottom of the A2 you'll find the metal tripod mount and the
battery compartment. The tripod mount is neither centered nor
inline with the lens. The battery compartment has a fairly sturdy
door (with a lock) over it.
The
included NP-400 battery is shown at right.
Using
the Minolta DiMAGE A2
Record
Mode
The
A2 has a very impressive startup time of 1.6 seconds, due to
the fact that the lens doesn't need to extend.

A
live histogram is shown in record mode
For
the most part, the A2's focusing performance is excellent. In good
light it focuses very quickly, usually in 1/2 second. Both the LCD
and EVF have a slight pause while the camera locks focus, which may
make following a moving subject a little more challenging. In low
light, it can take a second or two but most of the time it'll lock
focus -- this despite its lack of an AF-assist lamp. The fact that
both the EVF and LCD are viewable in low light makes the A2 one of
the best
low light shooters out there.
Once
you've locked focus, you can use the direct manual focus (DMF)
feature to manually focus the camera -- just in case the AF wasn't
accurate. Just keep the shutter release halfway pressed, and
use the focus ring.
But
all is not perfect in focusland. I had a fair amount trouble
with blurry photos, despite the camera telling me that the focus
was locked. This wasn't in weird situations, either -- this is
standing in front of my house, taking the same shot that I've
done many times before. Things were so bad that I sent my first
camera back. The second one (assuming it's a different one) seems
to have the same problem. I don't know if all A2s have this issue
(here's
another report), or if there's some kind of quality control
problem (another
report) -- but this issue does concern me. I'll have more
on this subject a little later in the review.
Shutter
lag was very brief, even at slower shutter speeds.
Shot-to-shot
speed is excellent, with a lag of a little over a second before
you can take another shot, assuming instant playback is turned
off. If you're using instant playback, you can half-press the
shutter release to go back to shooting immediately.
The
fast shot-to-shot speed even includes photos taken in RAW mode.
That's not the case in RAW+JPEG or TIFF mode, though. Expect
the camera to be locked up for 15 and 26 seconds, respectively,
while the images are saved to the memory card.
To
delete a photo after it is taken, you must first enter QuickView
mode. Then delete away!
Now,
here's a look at the many resolution and quality choices on the
DiMAGE A2:
| Quality |
Resolution |
Approx.
File Size |
#
images on 128MB card (optional) |
| RAW |
3264
x 2448 |
11.6
MB |
10 |
| TIFF |
3264
x 2448 |
23.0
MB |
5 |
| 3264
x 2176 (3:2) |
20.4
MB |
5 |
| 2560
x 1920 |
14.2
MB |
8 |
| 2080
x 1560 |
9.3
MB |
12 |
| 1600
x 1200 |
5.5
MB |
21 |
| 640
x 480 |
1.0
MB |
122 |
| Extra
Fine |
3264
x 2448 |
7.7
MB |
15 |
| 3264
x 2176 (3:2) |
6.9
MB |
17 |
| 2560
x 1920 |
4.8
MB |
25 |
| 2080
x 1560 |
3.2
MB |
37 |
| 1600
x 1200 |
1.9
MB |
62 |
| 640
x 480 |
420
KB |
296 |
| Fine |
3264
x 2448 |
3.9
MB |
30 |
| 3264
x 2176 (3:2) |
3.5
MB |
34 |
| 2560
x 1920 |
2.5
MB |
49 |
| 2080
x 1560 |
1.7
MB |
72 |
| 1600
x 1200 |
1.0
MB |
117 |
| 640
x 480 |
320
KB |
389 |
| Standard |
3264
x 2448 |
2.3
MB |
53 |
| 3264
x 2176 (3:2) |
2.1
MB |
59 |
| 2560
x 1920 |
1.5
MB |
83 |
| 2080
x 1560 |
1.0
MB |
121 |
| 1600
x 1200 |
656
KB |
190 |
| 640
x 480 |
240
KB |
520 |
Something
not listed up there is a RAW+TIFF mode which is new to the A2.
You get one RAW image (at 3264 x 2448) plus a fine quality JPEG
at the size of your choosing. Do note that there's a performance
penalty when you use this mode.
The
camera saves images with a name of PICT####.JPG, where #### =
0001-9999. The camera will maintain the file numbering, even
as you erase/replace memory cards.

The
DiMAGE A2 has an attractive and easy to use menu system, which
stands as a contrast to the rest of the camera, which can be
challenging to use. The main menu is divided into four tabs.
The available options include:
- Image
size (see chart)
- Quality
(see chart)
- Flash
mode (Fill-flash, redeye reduction, rear flash sync, wireless)
- Flash
control (ADI, pre-flash TTL, manual flash control) - see below
- AEL
button (AE hold, AE toggle, Spot AE hold, Spot AE toggle) -
define how this button works
- Reset
- returns record menu items to their default values
- Interval
set - for interval shooting
- Interval
(30 sec - 60 mins)
- No.
of frames (2 - 240)
- Start
time (0 - 24 hrs)
- Bracket
set (0.3, 0.5EV) - choose the interval used in exposure bracketing
mode
- Data
imprint (Off, YYYY/MM/DD, MM/DD/hr:min, Text, Text + ID#) -
print stuff on your photos
- Imprint
to (Image + EXIF, EXIF only)
- Instant
playback (Off, 2, 10 sec)
- Voice
memo (on/off) - add a 15 second voice clip to your photo
- Color
mode (Natural, vivid, Adobe RGB, Embedded Adobe RGB, black & white,
solarization) - quite a few options here
- Sharpness
(Soft, normal, hard)
- Noise
reduction (on/off) - reduce noise in exposures one second or
slower. Note that noise reduction will lock up the camera for
the same number of seconds as the chosen shutter speed before
you can take another shot.
- Monitor
amplification (Auto, normal) - when set to auto, the LCD/EVF
turn up the gain so you can see what you're shooting.
- Manual
exposure (Exposure, display priority) - only in "M" mode;
exposure priority shows what the photo will look like on the
EVF/LCD. Monitor amp. is disabled; Display priority shows the
image regardless of the exposure setting.
- Magnification
button (Digital zoom, flex digital magnifier) - what this button
activates
- DSP
set (DSP, memory recall) - see below
- Tracking
AF (on/off) - follow moving subjects while in continuous AF
mode
- AE
lock (on/off) - when on, the exposure is locked when you halfway
press the shutter release button
- Spot
AE area (on/off) - when on, the focus point is in the center
of the frame; otherwise it's multi-point
- Direct
MF (on/off) - described a little earlier
- EVF
mode (30 fps, 60 fps) - use the 30 fps for best EVF resolution;
resolution is lowered in 60 fps in exchange for better refresh
rate
Some
of those flash control options sound a little confusing. ADI,
or advanced distance integration, uses distance information from
the autofocus system, as well as a pre-flash, to judge flash
exposure. Pre-flash TTL just uses the pre-flash. Manual flash
control lets you choose the flash strength yourself (full power,
1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16). Manual flash control can also be used with
slave flashes.
Data
imprint not only lets you print the data on your photos (and
in the EXIF headers), but data and text as well. You can have
serial numbers or any other text you choose right on your picture.
This is a rarely encountered feature.
The
DSP set item lets you redefine the digital subject program (scene
mode) spots on the mode dial to be used for the memory recall
feature. Basically it saves you a trip to the menus.

The
DiMAGE A2 also a substantial setup menu, with the following options:
- LCD/EVF
brightness (-5 to +5, in 1-stop increments)
- Shortcut
help - tells you the shortcuts to change things like digital
zoom, LCD brightness, etc. without going through the menus
(you use the function dial button and another button instead)
- Transfer
mode (Data storage, PTP, computer control) - PTP is for connecting
to a PictBridge-enabled photo printer; computer control is
used with the optional DiMAGE Capture software
- EVF
auto switch (Auto EVF/LCD, EVF auto on) - if the latter is
chosen, the LCD will always remain off
- Video
output (NTSC, PAL)
- Language
(Japanese, English, German, French, Spanish, Chinese)
- Custom
set (Image size, quality, flash mode, flash control, color
mode, depth-of-field preview) - choose what happens when you
press the button on the function dial while the CUST item is
selected
- File
# memory (on/off)
- Folder
name (Standard, date)
- Select
folder
- New
folder
- Date/time
set
- Reset
defaults
- Audio
signals (Off, 1, 2) - the next three change the various sounds
the camera makes
- Focus
signal (Off, 1, 2)
- Shutter
FX (Off, 1, 2)
- Volume
(0 - 3)
- Power
save (1, 3, 5, 10 min)
- Anti-shake
(Display + exposure, exposure only) - when the anti-shake system
is activated: when you halfway press the shutter release, or
when the picture is actually taken
- Full-time
AF (on/off) - camera constantly tries to focus; puts extra
strain on battery but speeds up focusing
- Grip
sensor (on/off) - turning this on makes sure that the full-time
AF only works when the camera is being held
- Control
dial set - these next two define what control dial changes
shutter speed and aperture while in the manual modes
- Manual
exposure
- Delete
conf (yes, no) - when "yes", deleting a photo takes
one less button-press
Well
that was exhausting. Let's continue now with photo quality tests.

I
had a heck of a time getting the A2 to take our standard macro
test shot. I think it took me 10+ tries before I got a decent
shot. Even then, it was a little soft. The A2's white balance
handled my quartz studio lamps well.
The
A2's macro mode is somewhat unique in that you can take shots
at short distances to the subject at both the wide and telephoto
ends of the zoom range. At wide-angle, the minimum distance to
the subject is 30 cm -- not great. At telephoto, the distance
actually drops down to 25 cm -- very unusual for this to happen.
The telephoto end is the sweet spot, where you can fill the frame
with a 52 x 39 mm subject. Do note that the lens is locked at
either the wide or tele positions in macro mode.

The
A2 produced a very nice, though slightly soft, rendition of the
SF skyline. Even though it's a bit overexposed, there's no yucky
purple fringing (chromatic aberrations) to be seen. With full
manual controls, taking shots like this are a piece of cake.
Just bring your tripod!
Using
that night shot, here's a look at how changing the ISO sensitivity
affects image noise:
Noise
levels are pretty low for a while, but once you hit ISO 400,
look out! ISO 800 is a real mess, though you may be able to clean
it up with some of the modern noise reduction tools out there
now.

Great
news, no redeye! There's a bit of flash reflection, but nothing
else. The A1 performed just as well.

The
A2's lens produces moderate barrel distortion at the wide-angle
setting. There's no vignetting (dark corners) to be seen, which
is good news.
When
it wanted to, the A2 produced very nice photos. They're softer
than I'd like (at default settings) and a bit noisy, but overall,
pretty good. Exposure and color are both accurate, and purple
fringing levels are low. These two shots illustrate
show what the A2 can do.
However,
both A2's that I tested had an problem with VERY soft, out-of-focus
images. This is despite having the camera signal that the photo
is properly focused (and before anyone asks, the DMF feature
was off). Here's a real world example showing how bad the photos
look when this problem occurred:
Here's
a more controlled example. I set up the A2 on a tripod in front
of my house and took the same picture four times. Three out
of four times the shot was out-of-focus, again with the camera
saying that focus was locked.
The
fact that I got the blurry version three out of four times is
unacceptable from a camera in this class. I do believe that both
cameras I tested were lemons (assuming they were different ones
and not just the first one sent back) and that most A2s work
just fine. But, there were quite a few people, both reviewers
and end users, that had problems with their A2s, so I fear that
there may be a quality control problem of some sort. When it
works, the A2 has a lot going for it, so you may have to play
the exchange game if you get a bad one like I did (twice!).
The
ultimate judge of quality is your eyes -- please visit our photo
gallery and decide if the quality is acceptable to you. You
are also welcome to have the photos printed.
Movie
Mode
The
movie mode has improved quite a bit since the A1 was reviewed.
You can record movies at the unusual resolution of 544 x 408,
at 30 frames/second, with sound. Not quite VGA quality, but still
better than average. Minolta says that you can record for up
to 6 minutes, regardless of how big your memory card is. Well,
that wasn't true for me, as I recorded almost 10 minutes to my
1GB CF card. You can also record at 320 x 240, and for both resolutions
you can choose from 15 or 30 frames/sec. When you use the lower
resolution and/or frame rate, the maximum recoding time jumps
to 15 minutes.
Since
the zoom is mechanically operated, you can use it during filming.
Movies
are saved in QuickTime format.
Here's
a sample movie for you. Do note that I rotated it so it will
display properly. Anti-shake was activated during filming.

Click
to play movie (12.8 MB, QuickTime format)
Can't
play it? Download QuickTime.
Playback
Mode
The
A2 has a pretty standard playback mode. Basic playback options
include slide shows, DPOF print marking, image protection, thumbnail
mode, and zoom and scroll. Direct printing to a PictBridge-enabled
photo printer is also supported.
The
zoom and scroll feature (my term) allows you to zoom in as much
as 10.2X (in 0.2X increments) into your photo, and then scroll
around.
You
can rotate an image by pressing down on the four-way controller.
An image copy feature lets you transfer photos from one memory
card to another in 29MB increments. The delete feature lets you
delete one, all, or a group of photos (the latter being quite
useful in my opinion).
By
default, the A2 doesn't give you a lot of information about your
photos. However, press "up" on the four-way controller
and you'll see much more, including a histogram.
The
camera moves between photos with breathtaking speed -- it's basically
instantaneous.
How
Does it Compare?
When
working properly, the Konica Minolta DiMAGE A2 is an impressive
8 Megapixel camera. The problem is, both of the A2s that I tested
had problems taking sharp photos. But more on that in a second.
The
A2 usually takes good photos, though not the best of the 8MP
bunch, as they're soft and a bit noisy. Minolta does have purple
fringing under control, unlike most of the competition. In terms
of performance, the A2 is excellent. It starts up, shoots, and
plays back photos very quickly. In low light the camera focuses
very well, despite not having an AF-assist lamp. And, since both
the LCD and electronic viewfinder are usable in low light, you
can actually see what you're taking a picture of. Speaking of
the EVF, it's excellent -- by far the best one I've used. The
A2's lens covers a nice range of 28 - 200 mm, and there are conversion
lenses available if that's not enough. The A2 is one of a very
select group of cameras that has an image stabilizer, which reduces
the effects of camera shake in both stills and movies.
If
you like manual controls then you'll love the A2. It goes way
beyond the "basics" like shutter speed and white balance.
You can fine-tune white balance, bracket for color saturation,
and store up to 5 sets of camera settings on the mode dial. Along
with all those controls comes complexity -- this isn't an easy
camera to use, so expect to read the manual.
That's
nice and all, but none of it matters if the camera can't take
a sharp picture. Too many times my A2 produced ultra-soft, out-of-focus
images when it shouldn't be. I've provided my evidence of this
earlier in the review, and I'll mention again that both DP
Review and Luminous
Landscape had AF problems. I'm not sure if I just had bad
luck with my two review cameras or if there's a quality control
problem, but it is reason for concern. Hopefully Konica Minolta
will straighten things out soon.
Other
complaints that I have about the A2 are just like those I had
for the A1. The door covering the memory card slot is cheap and
plastic. The macro mode isn't as good as the competition (though
you can shoot pretty close in telephoto mode), and its price
makes it harder to justify versus buying a digital SLR. The A2
does not include a memory card, so be sure to factor that into
the purchase price. You'll need a big one.
I'm
hesitant to recommend the A2 based on my experiences, but since
many people have had no problems, you may have better luck than
I did. If you do get a properly working model, you'll find that
it's quite a camera.
What
I liked (when the camera is working properly):
- Good
photo quality
- 7X
optical zoom lens
- Image
stabilization system
- Full
manual controls (and plenty of them)
- Hot
shoe + flash sync port
- Very
good low light AF performance, even without AF-assist lamp
- LCD/EVF
are useful in low lighting conditions
- Excellent
quality EVF
- Good
redeye test performance
- Backlit
LCD info display
- Can
store favorite settings to spot on mode dial
- Excellent
battery life
- LCD
and EVF can flip up for easier viewing
- No
performance penalty while shooting in RAW mode
- High
resolution movie mode
- Fast
image viewing in playback mode
What
I didn't care for:
- Too
many out-of-focus shots; bad luck or bad quality control?
- Complex;
not easy to just pick up and use without reading the manual
first
- Images
slightly noisy and soft
- No
memory card included
- Flimsy
plastic door over CF slot
- Competition
from D-SLRs
Other
cameras worth considering include the Canon
PowerShot Pro1, Nikon
Coolpix 8700, Olympus
C-8080WZ, and Sony
Cyber-shot DSC-F828. Don't write off the Canon
Digital Rebel or Nikon
D70 either.
As
always, I recommend a trip to your local camera store to try
out the DiMAGE A2 and its competitors before you buy!
Photo
Gallery
Want
to see how the photo quality turned out? Check out our photo
gallery!
Want
a second opinion? How about a few more?
Don't
miss other A2 reviews at Steves
Digicams, DP
Review, and Luminous
Landscape.
Buy
it now
Feedback & Discussion
If
you have a question about this review, please send them to Jeff.
Due to my limited resources, please do not e-mail me asking
for a personal recommendation.
To
discuss this review with other DCRP readers, please visit our forums.
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