|
The PowerShot
Pro1 ($999) is the new flagship camera in Canon's
consumer line of digital cameras. Packing a whopping
8 Megapixel CCD, a 7X "L" lens, full manual
controls, beautiful LCD and electronic viewfinders,
and more, the Pro1 is one of the most impressive
fixed-lens cameras out there.
The 8 Megapixel field has grown considerably
since the introduction of the Sony Cyber-shot DSC-F828
(read
our review). That camera was plagued with purple
fringing and noise, due in part to the tightly-packed
pixels on the 8 Megapixel sensor. Was Canon able to
get rid of the junk in their 8 Megapixel images? Find
out now, in our review!
What's in the Box?
The PowerShot Pro1 has an excellent
bundle. Inside the box, you'll find:
- The 8.0 effective Megapixel Canon
PowerShot Pro1 camera
- 64MB CompactFlash card
- BP-511A li-ion battery
- Battery charger
- Remote control
- Neck strap
- Lens cap w/strap
- Lens hood
- Filter adapter
- USB cable
- A/V cable
- CD-ROM featuring Canon Digital
Camera Solutions, ArcSoft Camera Suite, and drivers
- 203 page camera manual + software
manual (both printed)
I don't know if anyone else noticed,
but the Pro1 and the Olympus C-8080WZ are the only
8 Megapixel cameras to include a memory card in the
box. While the Olympus includes a 32MB xD card, the
Pro1 includes a 64MB high speed CompactFlash card (Canon
doesn't say how fast -- based on my tests, I think
8X). That's a decent starter card, but these 8MP images
take up a lot of memory, so you'll want a larger card
right away. I'd suggest 512MB as a good place to start.
The Pro1 can use Type I or Type II cards, including
the Microdrive, and it supports the FAT32 format for
cards larger than 2GB.
The Pro1 uses an even more powerful
version of the "famous" BP-511 battery, known
as the BP-511A. Where the BP-511 had an impressive
8.1 Wh of energy, the 511A has an amazing 10.3 Wh.
That puts it at or near the top of the pack for lithium-ion
batteries. Canon estimates that you can take around
420 photos per charge, or spend 400 minutes in playback
mode.
My usual complaints about proprietary
batteries apply here. They're expensive, and you can't
put in a set of alkalines to get you through the rest
of the day like you could with an AA-based camera.

When it's time to recharge, just drop
the battery into the included charger. This is my favorite
style of charger -- it plugs right into the wall. It
takes about ninety minutes to fully charge the battery.

Canon includes a lens cap, but no
retaining strap, which is used to protect the lens.
Note that the lens cap only fits the way you see it
-- or upside down. You can't spin it while it's on
the lens.

There are a few extras in the box
as well. The lens hood above comes in very handy when
you're shooting outdoors.

If you're a filter-lover, then you'll
appreciate the included filter adapter. Putting it
on was a little awkward, but once you do, you can screw
on the 58 mm filter of your choice.

The final included accessory is the
good old WL-DC100 wireless remote control, which you've
seen before. You can take pictures, operate the zoom
lens, and do slideshows from up to 5 meters away. The
Pro1 has remote sensors on the front and right side.
Now, let's talk accessories. Since
there are many options, I just dumped them into this
handy chart:
| Accessory |
Model # |
Price |
Why you want
it |
| Telephoto
lens |
TC-DC58A |
$250 |
Boosts
focal distance by 1.5X, up to 300 mm;
requires LA-DC58C conversion lens adapter;
you must use the tripod mount on the
lens instead of the one on the camera |
| Close-up
lens |
500D
(58mm) |
$83 |
Get
even closer to your subject in macro
mode; requires LA-DC58C conversion
lens adapter |
| External
flash |
220EX,
420EX, 550EX |
$110-$330 |
For
added flash power and flexibility |
| Wireless
flash controller |
ST-E2 |
$180 |
Control
up to two 420/550EX slave groups wirelessly |
| Macro
ring lite |
MR-14EX |
$450 |
For
macro flash shots |
| Macro
twin lite |
MT-24EX |
$650 |
| AC
adapter |
CA-560 |
$85 |
Power
the camera without wasting your batteries |
| Soft
case |
SC-DC30 |
?? |
Protect
your investment |
|
|
There are a few items I didn't mention
there, and they're all various battery chargers.

ImageBrowser
(Mac OS X)

ZoomBrowser (Windows
XP)
Canon is now up to version 16 of their
excellent Digital Camera Solutions software. Included
in this package are ZoomBrowser (for Windows) or ImageBrowser
(for Mac), PhotoStitch (for making panoramic photos),
plus TWAIN and WIA drivers for Windows. Zoom/ImageBrowser
can be used for downloading images from your camera,
basic editing of your photos, and photo printing.

RAW Image Task (Mac
OS X)
If you shoot in RAW mode, then you'll
probably be using the RAW conversion tool built into
Zoom/ImageBrowser to manipulate those images. For those
who don't know about RAW, it's a lossless format that
lets you manipulate various properties of your image
-- a kind of virtual reshoot. Botch the white balance?
Just change it in the RAW file, and it's just like
you took the photo again. You can also adjust the saturation,
sharpness, contrast, tone curve, and more.

RemoteCapture (Mac
OS X)
Also built-in to the "Browser" software
is RemoteCapture, which you can use to control your
camera over the USB connection. Images are saved directly
to your computer.
For some reason, the bundled ArcSoft
Camera Suite is different than the one that came with
the PowerShot S410 and S500 -- which were introduced
at the same time as the Pro1. Windows users can use
PhotoStudio 5.5 and VideoImpression 2, while Mac users
get the old PhotoStudio 4.3 (the S410/500 came with
PhotoImpression 5) and VideoImpression 1.6.
While Canon's manuals are still better
than average, they seem a little more complex than
they used to be. Either that or I'm getting dumber.
Look and Feel
The PowerShot Pro1's build quality
is exceptional. The body is made of a mixture of sturdy
metal and high grade plastic, and it feels great. There's
a large right hand grip, and there's room for your
left hand as well (there has to be, as you'll be using
it to zoom). While the Pro1 suffers a bit from "button
clutter", the most important controls are easy
to reach.
Let's take a look at the dimensions
and weight of the Pro1 versus the competition:
| Camera |
Dimensions
(WxHxD) |
Volume
(bulk) |
Mass |
| Canon PowerShot Pro1 |
4.6
x 2.8 x 3.5 in. |
45.1
cu. in. |
545
g |
| Minolta DiMAGE A2 |
4.5
x 3.4 x 4.5 in. |
68.9
cu. in. |
565
g |
| Nikon Coolpix 8700 |
4.5
x 4.1 x 3.1 in. |
57.2
cu. in. |
480
g |
| Olympus C-8080WZ |
4.9
x 3.3 x 3.9 in. |
63.1
cu. in. |
660
g |
| Sony Cyber-shot DSC-F828 |
5.3
x 3.6 x 6.2 in. |
118.3
cu. in. |
955
g |
|
As you can see, the Pro1 is the smallest
(but not the lightest) of the bunch. The Sony F828
is enormous compared to the Pro1!
Let's begin our tour of this camera
now!

The thing that makes the Pro1 stand
out from the competition is its F2.4 - F3.5, 7X optical
zoom "L" lens. The lens has a focal range
of 7.2 - 50.8 mm, which is equivalent to 28 - 200 mm.
The lens itself isn't threaded, but you can remove
the ring around it (by pressing the button to the lower-left
of it), and then attach one of the adapters I mentioned
in the previous section.
If you know anything about Canon lenses,
you know that the "L" lenses mean quality
-- and price. The lens features both ultra-low dispersion
and fluorite elements, which are there to produce sharp
images with a minimum of purple fringing. Like the
PowerShot S1 that was announced at the same time, the
Pro1 features an ultrasonic lens motor (USM), which
allows for precise and quiet zoom operation. The zoom
mechanism is a little different than what you're used
to, and I'll explain that a little later.
Directly above the lens is the pop-up
flash, which has a working range of 0.5 - 5.0 m at
wide-angle, and 1.0 - 3.5 m at telephoto. If that's
not enough light for you, you can attach an external
flash to the hot shoe that you'll see later in the
tour. That white square below the flash is the redeye
reduction lamp.
To the upper-left of the lens is the
Pro1's hybrid autofocus sensor -- the first time such
a thing has been found on a Canon camera. This system
is used to speed up focusing (as opposed to just a
contrast detection-based system), though it's unclear
if it helps in low light.
Just below the AF sensor is the self-timer
lamp. Over on the grip (left side), you can see both
of the remote control receivers (one of them is hard
to see).

The Pro1's LCD can flip-out and rotate,
just like it can on several other Canon models. You
can see some of the available positions in the photos
above and below. If you point the screen toward your
subject, the camera will "flip" the image
on the screen so it's oriented correctly.
And how is that LCD? It's beautiful.
First of all, it's quite large, at 2 inches diagonally.
But even more impressive is the resolution -- this
screen has 235,000 pixels and it looks amazing. Even
the menus look great. Movement on the screen is very
fluid, as well.

Here's the back of the Pro1, with
the LCD in a more traditional position. Directly above
the LCD is the electronic viewfinder, or EVF. If you
liked the LCD, then you'll love the EVF, as it has
the same amazing resolution. In fact, I'd say that
the Pro1's EVF is the best I've seen -- though keep
in mind that I'm yet to see the one on the Minolta
DiMAGE A2. It still doesn't compare to a real optical
viewfinder, but for what it is, it's very good. In
fairly low light, I found the EVF to be usable, but
not as good as cameras that really amplify what's on
the screen (the DiMAGE A1 comes to mind).
There's a diopter correction knob,
which focuses the image on the EVF, on the left side
of the eyepiece.
Just to the left of the EVF is the
display button, which switches between the LCD and
EVF. On the opposite side is the Pro1's mode dial,
which has a ton of options. These include:
| Option |
Function |
| Movie Mode |
More on this later |
| Stitch Assist |
For help making panoramic
shots |
| Night Scene |
For night shots |
| Landscape |
For landscapes |
| Portrait |
For portraits |
| Fully Auto |
Point-and-shoot mode,
most settings locked up |
| Programmed Auto |
Camera chooses shutter
speed and aperture. All menu options are
unlocked. |
| Shutter Priority (Tv) |
You choose the shutter
speed, and the camera picks the proper aperture.
You can choose from a number of speeds ranging
from 15 sec - 1/4000 sec. The 1/2000 sec
speed is only available above F3.2 at wide-angle,
and F4.5 at telephoto. The 1/4000 sec speed
is only available above F5.6 at wide, and
F8 at tele. |
| Aperture Priority (Av) |
You pick the aperture,
and the camera picks the appropriate shutter
speed. The choices range from F2.4 - F8 and
will vary, depending on the current focal
range. |
| Full Manual |
You pick the aperture
and shutter speed. See above for values. |
| Custom Settings C1/C2 |
Your favorite camera
settings, easily accessible |
|
I should mention the program shift
feature, which is available in program mode. By halfway
pressing the shutter release, then hitting the AE/AF
lock (*) button, and using the command dial, you can
scroll through sets of aperture and shutter speeds.
This is an easy way to force a faster shutter speed
or a smaller aperture, without having to use the manual
modes.
The two custom spots on the mode dial
are where you can store your favorite camera settings
for easy retrieval. This is a great feature that not
too many cameras have.

Function menu
Back to the tour now. Just below the
mode dial is the function button, which is also used
to quickly "jump" through your photos in
playback mode. Pressing the function button brings
up -- get this -- the function menu! Here's what it
includes:
- ISO speed (Auto, 50, 100, 200,
400)
- Photo effect (Off, vivid, neutral,
low sharpening, sepia, black & white, custom
effect)
- Bracketing (AE, focus)
- Flash adjust (-2EV to +2EV, 1/3EV
increments)
- Flash strength (1 - 3) - only shown
in manual mode
- Compression (see chart later in
review)
- Resolution (see chart later in
review)
The photo effect feature lets you
quickly change the color of your image, or turn down
the sharpness. For more control choose the custom effect
option, which lets you adjust the contrast, sharpness,
and saturation in three steps.
There are two types of bracketing
on the Pro1. The first is the usual AE bracketing,
which takes three shots in a row, each with a different
exposure value (in 1/3EV increments). Focus bracketing
is the same idea, except it's used in manual focus
mode (which I'll discuss in just a second). The camera
takes a shot at the chosen focus setting, plus one
closer, and one further away.
The next item on the back of the camera
is the four-way controller, which is used for menu
navigation, as well as for changing exposure compensation
and white balance. The exposure compensation range
is the usual -2EV to +2EV in 1/3EV increments, while
the white balance options are auto, daylight, cloudy,
tungsten, fluorescent, fluorescent H, flash, custom
1, and custom 2. The two custom settings allow you
to shoot a white or gray card, to get perfect color
in nearly any lighting. I appreciate having two settings,
as well -- great if you shoot in situations with non-standard
lighting (like me!).
Below the four-way controller are
the set and menu buttons -- both of which are used
for menu navigation. The set button also activates
the FlexiZone autofocus system, which lets you put
the focus point just about anywhere in the frame (save
for a margin around the edges).
Below those two buttons, under a plastic
door, are the Pro1's I/O ports. These include USB,
DC-in (for optional AC adapter), and A/V out. It's
too bad that the flagship PowerShot camera doesn't
support USB 2.0!
On the far right side of the photo
are three buttons. They're for:
- Manual focus {record mode} / Voice
caption {playback mode}
- AE/FE lock {record} / Delete photo
{playback}
- Info - toggles what is shown on
the LCD/EVF

Manual focus
Manual focus mode lets you use the
zoom ring to set the focus you desire (you must hold
the MF button down first). A guide is shown on the
LCD/EVF, giving you the approximate focus distance.
The center of the frame is enlarged (not shown above),
so you can make sure that your subject is in-focus.
After using manual focus, you can press the "set" button
to have the autofocus see if it can improve on what
you came up with.
The sound memo feature lets you attach
sixty second sound clips to each photo. The "star" button
will lock the exposure or flash exposure (depending
on whether you're using the flash or not).

There's plenty more to talk about
on the top of the Pro1. But first, I'd like to talk
about the zoom mechanism. Most cameras have buttons
or a switch that electronically tell the lens when
to zoom. A few others allow you to move the lens (mechanically)
yourself. The Pro1 is a mixture of both. By turning
the ring around the lens, you electronically tell the
zoom to move. Turn it a little, and the lens moves
a little. Really crank it, and you can quickly zoom
in or out. It takes getting used to, but I think Canon
did a good job with the implementation of the zoom
ring.
The ultra sonic motor makes the whole
process very quiet. If you're quick, you can move the
lens through the zoom range in about two seconds. Canon
has markings on the lens showing the current focus
distance -- in regular and 35mm-equivalent numbering.
Okay, now back to our tour. At the
left end of the above photo are two buttons. In record
mode, these are for flash setting (auto w/redeye reduction,
auto, flash on w/redeye reduction, flash on, flash
off) and macro mode (on/off). In playback mode, they
operate the "zoom and scroll" feature that
I'll describe later.
To the right of those buttons is the
Pro1's hot shoe. The hot shoe fully supports all of
the flashes that I listed in the first section of the
review, and they can sync as fast as 1/250 sec. You
can use your non-Canon flash as well, but you'll have
to put both the camera and the flash into manual mode.
The maximum sync speed with a non-Canon flash is 1/125
sec.
The next item over is the LCD info
display, which displays a ton of camera settings ranging
from battery life to shutter speed to flash setting.
Since this is all described in the manual, I'll spare
you the details. I will mention that there's a backlight
for the screen, which is activated by pressing the
lamp button to the right of the screen.
The other buttons adjacent to the
LCD info display include one for metering (evaluative,
center-weighted, spot) and another for drive (single-shot,
continuous, self-timer). I'll have more on the continuous
shooting mode later in the review.
Below those three buttons is the power/mode
switch, which turns the camera on and off, and also
moves between record and playback mode. At the top-right
of the photo is the selector dial (used for adjusting
manual controls), as well as the shutter release button.

The only thing to see on this side
of the Pro1 is the speaker. You can catch a glimpse
of the EVF's diopter correction knob, as well.

The opposite side of the Pro1 is where
you'll find the memory card and battery compartment,
which are kept behind a sturdy plastic door. Before
we took a closer look at that, I wanted to point out
just how far the lens sticks out when it's at the full
telephoto position.

Here's the side of the Pro1 with the
door opened up. The battery goes on the left, and the
CompactFlash card on the right. This is a Type II CompactFlash
slot, which supports regular CF cards, as well as thicker
ones like the Microdrive.
It's hard to see here, but there's
a small watch battery that goes into a slot just above
the battery compartment. This stores your camera settings,
even if the main battery is removed.
The included battery and memory card
are shown at left.

We end our tour with a look at the
bottom of the camera. The only thing to see here is
the metal tripod mount, which is neither centered,
nor inline with the lens.
Using the Canon PowerShot
Pro1
Record Mode
The PowerShot Pro1 starts up quickly,
taking just 3 seconds to extend its lens and "warm
up" before you can start shooting.

Surprisingly,
there's no live histogram on the Pro1
The external AF sensor helps the Pro1
focus quickly. In most situations, I found that the
camera locked focus in 0.6 - 0.8 seconds after halfway-pressing
the shutter release. If the camera has to "hunt",
expect slightly longer delays. I did notice that the
EVF freezes for about a second while the camera tries
to lock focus, which may be an issue for action photography
(the LCD was a little better). Low light focusing was
better than expecting, but I think an AF-assist lamp
would've been helpful.
Shutter lag was not a major problem,
even at slower shutter speeds.
Shot-to-shot speed is very good on
the Pro1 (as it usually is on Canon cameras). You will
wait for just 1.5 seconds before you can take another
shot (even in RAW mode, unlike on the Sony F828), assuming
that you've turned off the post-shot review feature.
You can delete a picture as it's been
saved to the memory card by pressing the delete photo
button. If you really meant to take the photo in RAW
mode, just press the function button, and the camera
asks if you'd prefer to save the image in that format
instead.
Now, here's a look at the image size
and quality choices available on the Pro1:
| Resolution |
Quality |
Approx. file size |
# Images on 64MB card
(included) |
Large
(3264 x 2448) |
RAW |
9.0
MB |
6 |
| Superfine |
3.4
MB |
17 |
| Fine |
2.0
MB |
29 |
| Normal |
980
KB |
62 |
Medium
1
(2272 x 1704) |
Superfine |
2.0
MB |
30 |
| Fine |
1.1
MB |
54 |
| Normal |
556
KB |
110 |
Medium
2
(1600 x 1200) |
Superfine |
1.0
MB |
61 |
| Fine |
558
KB |
109 |
| Normal |
278
KB |
217 |
Medium
3
(1024 x 768) |
Superfine |
570
KB |
107 |
| Fine |
320
KB |
189 |
| Normal |
170
KB |
349 |
Small
(640 x 480) |
Superfine |
249
KB |
241 |
| Fine |
150
KB |
393 |
| Normal |
84
KB |
676 |
|
I explained the RAW format at the
beginning of the review. There's no TIFF mode, so if
you require that format, you'll need to take a RAW
image and then convert it in software.
Images are named IMG_xxxx.JPG, where
x = 0001 - 9999. The file numbering is maintained even
if you replace and/or format memory cards.
Now, onto the menus!

The PowerShot Pro1 has the same menu
system as the other PowerShot models. The items found
here include:
- Flash sync (1st, 2nd-curtain) -
when the flash fires when taking slow sync shots
- Slow synchro (on/off)
- Redeye reduction (on/off)
- Flash pop-up (on/off) - whether
the flash automatically pops up
- Continuous shooting (Standard,
high speed) - see below
- Self-timer (2, 10 sec)
- Wireless delay (0, 2, 10 sec) -
delay before picture is taken when optional remote
control is used
- Spot AE point (Center, AF point)
- what part of the frame is used to judge exposure
while in spot metering mode
- ND filter (on/off) - see below
- Safety shift (on/off)
- MF-Point zoom (on/off) - turns
on focus point enlargement feature in manual focus
mode
- AF mode (Continuous, single) -
whether camera is always focusing, or only when the
shutter release is pressed halfway
- Digital zoom (on/off) - using this
will reduce photo quality
- Converter (None, telephoto, close-up)
- for when you're using a conversion lens
- Review (Off, 2-10 sec)
- Color space (Standard, Adobe RGB)
- Reverse display (on/off) - whether
the camera flips the image on the LCD when the screen
is rotated toward the subject
- Super macro (on/off) - discussed
later
- Intervalometer - see below
- Save settings (to the C1 and C2
positions on the mode wheel)
There are two choices for continuous
shooting on the Pro1. Standard mode shoots at 1 frame/second,
while high speed shoots at 2.5 frames/second. I was
able to take 18 shots in a row at the standard speed,
and 9 at high speed. I found it difficult to shoot
sequentially on this camera, as the screen pauses briefly
between shots, making tracking a moving subject difficult
(that's why I like optical viewfinders!). I experienced
this firsthand while trying to take pictures of surfers.
The neutral density (ND) filter reduces
brightness by a factor of 8. This lets you use a slower
shutter speed (or larger aperture) when shooting in
bright light. Canon is the only manufacturer to have
this feature -- the G3 and G5 had it as well.
The safety shift feature allows the
camera to adjust the shutter speed or aperture in Tv
or Av mode if necessary, to get a good exposure.
The Intervalometer tool lets you use
the Pro1 for time lapse photography. You select the
interval between shots (1-60 minutes) and the total
number of shots to be taken (2-100). Use of the optional
AC adapter is strongly recommended.

There is also a setup menu on the
Pro1, so let's take a look at that now. Here's what
you'll find in the setup menu:
- Mute (on/off) - turn off those
annoying beep sounds!
- Volume
- Startup volume (Off, 1-5)
- Operation volume (Off, 1-5)
- Self-timer volume (Off, 1-5)
- Shutter volume (Off, 1-5)
- Playback volume (Off, 1-5)
- LCD brightness (Normal, bright)
- Power saving
- Auto power down (on/off)
- Display off (10, 20, 30 sec,
1-3 min)
- Date/time
- Card format
- File number reset (on/off) - maintain
file numbering
- Auto rotate (on/off) - camera will
automatically rotate portrait photos on the LCD
- Distance units (m/cm, ft/in)
- Language (English, Deutsch, Français,
Nederlands, Dansk, Suomi, Italiano, Norsk, Svenska,
Español, Chinese, Japanese)
- Video system (NTSC, PAL)
The "My Camera'" menu allows
you to customize the startup screen, beeps, and phony
shutter sounds that your camera makes. If these bother
you, you can also turn them off.
Well enough about menus, let's do
photo tests now.

The Pro1 produced a very nice rendition
of our famous macro subject. The camera captures a
lot of detail, with tiny hairs and dust being the evidence
for that. Colors are nice as well -- with the red being
especially saturated.
The camera has two macro modes --
regular (which I used above) and super.
Regular macro lets you get as close
to your subject as 10 cm at wide-angle. The lens won't
zoom any further out than 90 mm. The sweet spot appears
to be at 63 mm, where you can fit a 87 x 65 mm subject
in the frame.
Super macro mode lets you get even
closer: just 3 cm from the end of the lens to the subject.
The zoom range here is limited to 42 - 90 mm, with
the latter being the sweet spot. There you can get
a 35 x 26 mm subject to fill the frame. Not quite "Nikon
macro", but pretty darn good nonetheless.

If there was less purple fringing
in this shot, then it would be one of the best versions
of this shot I've taken. The sharpness and detail is,
in my opinion, excellent (don't forget that I was at
least 1.5 miles away). There is a fair amount of purple,
especially on the left side. The simple answer is to
close down the aperture (use a larger F-number). The
images below have smaller apertures, and you can see
that the purple is mostly gone at F5.
Speaking of which, how does the Pro1
perform at higher ISO sensitivities? Here you go:
As you can see, ISO 200 and especially
ISO 400 are quite noisy. I thought that ISO 100 was
a little above average in the noise department, as
well.

The Pro1's 7X zoom lens shows moderate
barrel distortion at wide-angle.

There's just a hint of redeye in our
flash test. A great way to totally banish redeye from
your life is to use an external flash -- which, as
I mentioned, the Pro1 supports.
There were two problems that plagued
the Sony Cyber-shot DSC-F828, the first 8 Megapixel
camera that I tested. Those were purple fringing (chromatic
aberrations) and noise. You won't escape either of
those on the PowerShot Pro1, but they aren't nearly
as bad -- especially in the purple fringing department.
You'll still see both fairly often, and this may or
may not be an issue for you -- it really depends on
what you plan on doing with your photos. While nobody's
nailed down the cause yet (is it the lens, or the tightly-packed
photosites on the CCD?), one thing's for sure: 8 Megapixel
cameras have more noise and purple fringing than lower
resolution cameras -- and you'll have to get used to
it, or learn to love Photoshop.
The Pro1 takes images that are quite
sharp, which adds to the noise levels a bit. Colors
are accurate, and the camera properly exposed most
of the photos I took. I must say that I raised an eyebrow
when I saw vignetting in several photos --
something I wouldn't expect from an "L" lens.
Overall, I'd rank the Pro1's photo quality as superior
to the F828's, and competitive with that from the Nikon
Coolpix 8700. I haven't seen the DiMAGE A2 yet -- but
I'm looking forward to it.
Please, have a look at the huge photo
gallery, and see if the Pro1's photo quality
meets your expectations!
Movie Mode
The Pro1's movie mode is a bit of
letdown after testing the PowerShot S1. While you'll
get VGA resolution, you'll have a 30 second limit,
and a slower frame rate of 15 fps. Lower resolutions
are available too: you can record up to 3 minutes at
320 x 240 and 160 x 120. Sound is recorded at all of
those resolutions.
Another major difference between the
S1 and Pro1 movie modes is that you cannot use the
zoom during filming on the Pro1.
Movies are saved in AVI format, using
the M-JPEG codec.
Here's a sample movie for you, recorded
at the 640 x 480 setting:

Click
to play movie (13.2MB, 640 x 480, AVI format)
Can't view it? Download QuickTime.
Playback Mode
The Pro1 has the same, excellent playback
mode as seen on other Canon cameras. Everything is
very snappy.

The Pro1 has all the basic playback
features that you'd expect. That includes slide shows,
DPOF print marking, image protection, thumbnail mode,
and zoom and scroll. Playback mode is also the place
to print photos, when connected to a compatible Canon
or PictBridge-enabled photo printer.
The zoom and scroll feature (my term)
lets you blow up the picture up to 10X, and then scroll
around in the zoomed-in area. It's nice and fast!
By pressing the metering/sound recording
button on the back of the camera, you can add voice
clips of up to 60 seconds per photo. You can also rotate
photos, or mark for transfer to your e-mail program,
assuming that you use Canon's software.
If you've recorded a movie, an editing
function lets you trim unwanted frames from the beginning
or end of it.
By default, the Pro1 doesn't give
you much info about your photos. But press the display
button and you'll get plenty of details, as well as
a histogram.
The Pro1 moves between photos at a
decent clip, with about a 1.5 second delay between
high res photos.
How Does it Compare?
The Canon PowerShot Pro1 is a very
good fixed-lens camera, providing ultra high resolution,
full manual controls, and a build quality that rivals
D-SLRs. For those expecting the Pro1 to cure the problems
of the Sony DSC-F828, you'll be disappointed -- as
purple fringing and noise are still apparent (though
not as bad). The Pro1 takes nice, sharp, colorful pictures,
though expect some noise in flat areas and shadows,
and purple around some edges. I was certainly shocked
to see vignetting in three or four pictures -- and
this is with the famous "L" lens. This lens
covers a nice range too, from 28 to 200 mm. If you
need more telephoto power, you can buy a teleconverter.
Canon includes support for filters right in the box
-- a nice touch. While not quite approaching the ultra
macro mode found on some Nikon cameras, the Pro1 can
get just 3 cm from your subject.
In terms of performance, the Pro1
is very snappy. It starts up fast, focuses quickly,
and has minimal shutter lag. Low light focusing was
just so-so -- an AF-assist lamp would've be nice. Battery
life is excellent, as well, thanks to the new BP-511A
battery. The Pro1's build quality is really spectacular,
feeling more like an EOS-10D than a PowerShot. The
fly-by-wire zoom ring takes some getting used to, but
most people will prefer it over the zoom buttons on
other cameras. Two things that are really nice are
the LCD and electronic viewfinder. They are bright,
with extremely high resolution, and the LCD can flip
out and rotate as well. The EVF was a little on the
dark side in dim light, however. Other nice features
including a backlit LCD info display, and the ability
to save two sets of camera settings to spots on the
mode dial. Finally, while the Pro1 has a VGA movie
mode, the brief 30 second time limit and sluggish frame
rate make it less appealing than others.
Thus far, I've only reviewed two 8MP
cameras: this one, and the Sony DSC-F828. I give the
edge to the Pro1 in most areas, most importantly image
quality and manual controls. The F828 does get points
for a faster lens, superior AF system, and nicer movie
mode. It's also a hefty camera to carry around, compared
to the relatively compact Pro1.
The Pro1 is certainly an intriguing
choice for those who want D-SLR resolution and performance,
but don't want a bulky camera or pricey lenses. Don't
expect D-SLR photo quality, though, as the tiny 8MP
sensor just can't compare. The Pro1 gets my recommendation,
but do careful research before you buy!
What I liked:
- Good photo quality (though see
issues below)
- Fast 7X zoom lens with "L" glass
(but several instances of vignetting raised my eyebrows)
- Full manual controls
- Exceptional build quality
- Robust performance
- Interesting zoom ring around lens
- Beautiful LCD (which can flip out
and swivel) and electronic viewfinder
- Impressive macro mode
- Supports telephoto and closeup
conversion lenses
- Hot shoe for external flash
- Lens hood, filter adapter included
- Very good battery life
- Can save favorite settings to spot
on mode dial
- Built-in neutral density filter
What I didn't care for:
- Images slightly noisy; noticeable
purple fringing as well
- Vignetting spotted in several images;
surprising given the lens
- So-so focusing in low light; no
AF-assist lamp
- Electronic viewfinder somewhat
difficult to see in dim light
- No live histogram in record mode
- Movie mode limited to 30 secs,
15 frames/sec at highest resolution
- Tough competition from D-SLRs
Other cameras worth considering include
the Minolta
DiMAGE A2, Nikon
Coolpix 8700, and Sony
Cyber-shot DSC-F828.
As always, I recommend a trip down
to your local reseller to try out the PowerShot Pro1
and its competitors before you buy!
Photo Gallery
Want to see some pictures? Check out
the photo gallery!
Want another opinion?
Read another review at Steve's
Digicams.
Buy
it now
Feedback & Discussion
If you have a question about this
review, please send them to Jeff.
Due to my limited resources, please do not e-mail me
asking for a personal recommendation.
To discuss this review with other
DCRP readers, please visit our forums.
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