camera crew: canon people (need some big time help here)
I take shots in shutter (rapid fire) mode and all my pics turn out blurry with alot of noise. And if theres any movement, it turns out worse. I have the ISO speed set to 400 the fastest or else the shots will take forever to go right after the other. Is fast ISO speed bad? Also in shutter mode, the preview is delayed after a shot has been taken.
But once I go back to auto mode (which disables the shutter mode), the pics turn out fine. But my pics in general still turn out too dark at times. I think its cause the flash is too strong, but I cant find a way to adjust the intensity - manual doesnt say anything
In rapid fire mode the camera probably increases the shutter speed and this is why they come out dark. The camera has a limited aperture range and is capped at ISO 400. Is it possible to increase the lighting to get better exposures in rapid fire mode?
ISO 400 on most cameras is very noisy. That is what you are seeing, that is why they do not look good.
ISO 400 is what makes your photos look less good (noise). ISO 400 needs a shorter exposure time, that is why they are quicker after eachother. Are you making the photos in a relativily dark environment? I think so because you mention blur and movement making it worse.
If you have better light you should be able to make a series of photos in ISO 100 and they will look good. A good photo just needs enough light, and if there isn't enough light the exposure time will get longer, and movement of camera and of the subject will make things blurry.
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Canon EOS 350D, Tamron SP AF 90mm F/2.8 macro, Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 DC EX, Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L USM, Tokina AT-X124 Pro 12-24mm F4, Soligor 1.7x C/D4 DG Teleconvertor, Manfrotto 724B tripod, Canon Powershot S30
In rapid fire mode the camera probably increases the shutter speed and this is why they come out dark. The camera has a limited aperture range and is capped at ISO 400. Is it possible to increase the lighting to get better exposures in rapid fire mode?
tried the exposure, even out side of rapid fire, i cant seem to get the lighting between th foreground and the background right. flash is too strong, washes out the front and background is dark.
ISO 400 on most cameras is very noisy. That is what you are seeing, that is why they do not look good.
ISO 400 is what makes your photos look less good (noise). ISO 400 needs a shorter exposure time, that is why they are quicker after eachother. Are you making the photos in a relativily dark environment? I think so because you mention blur and movement making it worse.
If you have better light you should be able to make a series of photos in ISO 100 and they will look good. A good photo just needs enough light, and if there isn't enough light the exposure time will get longer, and movement of camera and of the subject will make things blurry.
they were in a bunch of environments but mostly well lite. I still cant figure out what kind of flash is the best one to use (auto, auto with red-eye) etc, and when to use it. This is whats making my pics turn like crap and always having to redo them, which is very annoying to say the least.
tried the exposure, even out side of rapid fire, i cant seem to get the lighting between th foreground and the background right. flash is too strong, washes out the front and background is dark.
Very common complaint with digital cameras - not entirely absent from film either.
ISO determines light sensitivity. If its less sensitive (lower ISO) it needs more light to "expose" it. So; the tiny flash on your ELPH goes about 8 feet then the light disapates. The lower the ISO (and less well lit the background), the darker it will be.
Higher ISO will better captured the underlit background, and should tell your camera's flash not to be so bright. However; as pointed out above, anything above ISO 200 will be very scratchy. ISO 200 is usually pretty dirty on the tiny cameras. 100 is pretty good, and 50 is very nice.
Only real solution is a better low-light camera, or one that accepts an external flash - or of course better lighting the background.
Very common complaint with digital cameras - not entirely absent from film either.
ISO determines light sensitivity. If its less sensitive (lower ISO) it needs more light to "expose" it. So; the tiny flash on your ELPH goes about 8 feet then the light disapates. The lower the ISO (and less well lit the background), the darker it will be.
Higher ISO will better captured the underlit background, and should tell your camera's flash not to be so bright. However; as pointed out above, anything above ISO 200 will be very scratchy. ISO 200 is usually pretty dirty on the tiny cameras. 100 is pretty good, and 50 is very nice.
Only real solution is a better low-light camera, or one that accepts an external flash - or of course better lighting the background.
Hope that helps.
thx!
ya 50 ISO works best. 400, or even 200 its too noisy, so I wont ever go on those again. So I guess the only thing i can do is, set to 50ISO then adjust the exposure to above 0. According to canon (was on the phone with them today) they said on their non SLR cams you are unable to adjust the flash strength, only the exposure which is how bright your pics will turn out.
Sounds more and more to me like this rapid fire shooting is over rated. Whats multi bursting, is thta the same?
As others have said in other threads, it's called "burst mode" not rapid-fire or shutter.
I use it all the time for action shots on my SD300. It works best in well lit situations, I typically use it for skiing shots and it works great. I can capture very fast motion with 2.5fps and select the shots I want later. I usually set the camera to ISO 50 and just shoot.
In low light burst mode doesn't make too much sense. If the subject is moving rapidly you won't be able to freeze the action unless you boost the ISO. This can be OK if you are going for an artistic effect, but not as good for a simple snapshot.
As for adjusting the flash, you have a very basic point and shoot. It doesn't have manual controls and the flash is fine for snapshots but will be insufficient to really frame an interesting lighting situation. With a stationary subject you can boost the ISO and/or work on holding steady or use a tripod to allow you to keep the shutter open longer. I like shooting in low light if I have a subject that's not moving, you can get creative if you learn how to keep the camera still.
camera crew: canon people (need some big time help here)
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