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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    16

    night action photos

    I have a problem when it comes to taking night action photos, for example football. I have an external falsh, and a 70-300mm 5.0 apature lense. What would be the best settings to put my camera on so I can freeze the action, and still have some light in the pictures. Unfortunantly buying a new lense is not an option. Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Surrey, England
    Posts
    3,210
    You didn't mention what camera it is - however - the lens sounds slow for the job - ie it doesn't let in a lot of light. What you need are a number of things - including good light,and/or a bright lens - if they are playing football you'd need an unbelievable flash I woulld think. (To reach them when they are not so near) You can't change the laws of Physics. To freeze the action you need enough light on the subject to allow a fast shutter speed. As you know correct exposure is obtained by the combination of amount of light x the shutter speed. You can 'up' the ASA as high as it will go, (effectively amplifying the light) open up the aperture to the maximum, using Aperture priority - then the camera will select the fastest shutter speed. Or if you select a fast shutter speed and shutter priority (depending on your focal length) you may run the risk of running out of enough light with our lens not having a wide enough apperture.
    Tricky! What you need is a really bright lens, decent flood lighting, a really good flash, bump up the ASA, and quite a bit of good timing and luck.
    Sorry If I haven't quite said what you wanted to hear.
    Geoff Chandler. UK/England/Surrey
    NIKON D90 / D80. Nikon 16 - 85 VR, Tamron 28-200,
    Sigma 70-300APO, Tokina 100 AT-X Pro D.
    SB600 flash. Panasonic DMC-TZ25

    http://geof777.multiply.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Hong Kong
    Posts
    107
    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff Chandler
    You didn't mention what camera it is - however - the lens sounds slow for the job - ie it doesn't let in a lot of light. What you need are a number of things - including good light,and/or a bright lens - if they are playing football you'd need an unbelievable flash I woulld think. (To reach them when they are not so near) You can't change the laws of Physics. To freeze the action you need enough light on the subject to allow a fast shutter speed. As you know correct exposure is obtained by the combination of amount of light x the shutter speed. You can 'up' the ASA as high as it will go, (effectively amplifying the light) open up the aperture to the maximum, using Aperture priority - then the camera will select the fastest shutter speed. Or if you select a fast shutter speed and shutter priority (depending on your focal length) you may run the risk of running out of enough light with our lens not having a wide enough apperture.
    Tricky! What you need is a really bright lens, decent flood lighting, a really good flash, bump up the ASA, and quite a bit of good timing and luck.
    Sorry If I haven't quite said what you wanted to hear.

    AGREE! If you're shooting soccer games, I don't think a flash is neccessary. The flood lighting is alright enough, you can just set the ASA to ISO 800 or even higher, and a fast telephoto Lens (e.g. having an aperture f2.8). If your Lens is only having f5, some DSLR have a higher ISO setting, sometimes as high as ISO 6400 (e.g. Nikon D100 or D2H), then you can set it to a fast shutter speed.
    Or else, there is another option: bring some high power studio flash light with huge powerpacks (for fast recycling). The light output of them will be more than enough gor the shooting. But, is it allowed in the stadium, and, can anyone effort it?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    16
    yeah moneyismy problem,ijsutbought a new 2.8 lensebutitsonly 20-75mm and that wount do ay good at all with football and soccer. That why I was asking because I only have an external flash and its bright but its not the greatest thing for outside. I was jsut wondering if any one had any suggestions. Thanks for the help. (by the way I have a digital rebel)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Monterey Bay
    Posts
    6,029
    Quote Originally Posted by wall7760
    yeah moneyismy problem,ijsutbought a new 2.8 lensebutitsonly 20-75mm and that wount do ay good at all with football and soccer. That why I was asking because I only have an external flash and its bright but its not the greatest thing for outside. I was jsut wondering if any one had any suggestions. Thanks for the help. (by the way I have a digital rebel)
    Set the Rebel to ISO 800 or 1600, and set the EV to -0.7 or -1. This will emulate a faster lens, and give you a faster shutter speed, but will underexpose slightly. You can recover the underexposed information in Photoshop levels and curves and then run Noise Ninja to clean it up a little. I have used this technique many times and it may not be perfect but you won't miss the shot.
    D7000, D70, CP990, CP900, FE.
    50mm f/1.8, Sigma 18-125, Sigma 24-70 f/2.8, Nikon 18-105 VR, Nikon 55-200 VR, Nikon 43-86 f/3.5 AiS, Vivitar 28-90 F/2.8-3.5 Macro, Vivitar 75-205 F/3.8-4.8, SB800.
    Ha! See, I can change...


    http://d70fan.smugmug.com/

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    1,099
    Quote Originally Posted by wall7760
    I have a problem when it comes to taking night action photos, for example football. I have an external falsh, and a 70-300mm 5.0 apature lense. What would be the best settings to put my camera on so I can freeze the action, and still have some light in the pictures. Unfortunantly buying a new lense is not an option. Any suggestions?
    Here's an article about taking action shots you may want to refer to.

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