How to take a canon S2 IS apart (detail images)
Im just going to use thumbnails and then you can click what you need to see.
1. Tools i used, phillips jewlers screwdriver, jewlers flat head, blow gun dart, tweezers and the tv remote.
2. First remove the batteries and the memory card. Get somthing to put the screws in, i used an SD case because there is 2 sections. 1 for the case screws, 1 for the inside screws.
3. remove the rubber eyepiece and all visable screws you can see.
4. the only hidden screw is under the USB plug.
5. You only need to remove the front screws under the flash.
6. remove the side of the case.
7. Remove the ribbon cable for the macro and MF buttons, i used the blow gun for this part.
8. use your needle nose pliers and remove the plug for the audio microphones.
9. remove the front case section.
10. Now you should have a nice little pile of case screws. I marked the C to mark the case screws.
Last edited by BowerR64; 08-03-2006 at 08:05 AM.
11. Remove all the screws marked to remove the control pad.
12. there are 2 small brackets that will fall out, the shield for the function dial connection and the memory card door switch.
13. Use the blow gun dart (or a needle or stick pin anything you have) wedge it between the ribbon connector and the socket. The black/blue flap will fold and release the cable connection.
14. use the needle in the hole to slide the ribbon cable out, then remove the mode dial body section.
15. Once the body section with the mode dial is removed, then you can remove the control pad.
16. Now you need to move the flash so you can remove the main board. There is a screw on the top left corner.
17. And in the front under the flash, move the flash over out of the way.
18. Use the flat head screw driver to seperate the push on connectors to the viewfinder LCD, CCD, and the power board (top)
19. Unplug the 2 white connectors to the LCD
20. Again use the needle and poke it threw the holes on the ribbon cables to help slide the ribbon connectors out of the sockets.
Last edited by BowerR64; 08-03-2006 at 08:08 AM.
21. Remove the mainboard so you can get to the screws that hold the lens mechanism in.
22. Remove the 3 screws and slide the lens mechanism out, the side with the brass motor should be lifted out first.
23. Now you have the lens mechanism and the rest of the unit seperated.
24. 2 seperate piles of screws now, and a few brackets
25. undo the 2 screws that hold the cover over the gears that drive the lens mechanism.
26. use the tweezers to remove the gears, there are 3 total. These gears are usualy the main cause of E18 errors.
27. You should check between the teeth of each gear cleaning any sand or debris caught in any of the teeth. Also check the teeth on the main lens gear as well.
28. Remove the screw that holds the lens stop and remove the metal lens stop. This keeps the outer lens from slipping off the lens mechanism. The is the outer most tube/lens on the camera. The only reason you would need to go futher then this is if there is internal lens damage like mine. Usualy you wont have to go this far.
29. Once you have removed the metal lens lock you can remove the outer silver lens and tube then you can remove the next lens and get into the apature.
30. Another image of the outer silver lens and tube, then the next lens (this is the lens that moves in and out when using the zoom.
Last edited by BowerR64; 08-03-2006 at 08:11 AM.
31. inside look at the apature
32. These 2 screws are the last 2 screws that hold the main lens mechanism to the base. The base has the CCD mounted to it. Remove these last 2 if you need to get into the apature or the lenses behind it.
33. Pile of S2 parts.
I took mine apart because it had been dropped and the lens would not retract. E18 error. When i got it apart there was a little spring and a tiny ball bearing in the gears. Im guessing they fell out of the lens mechanism but i dont know where.
As i took it apart further a screw fell out that had the base of the lens mechanism atached to it. This is what cracked and took the most damage during the impact.
I fixed the base using a soldering iron and some super glue. The spring and bearing im still stuck on. I dont think its going to function right with out them in there. :/ Im not even sure what they do.
Last edited by BowerR64; 08-03-2006 at 08:14 AM.
you can see the complete guide here: Complete S3 Repair Guide
My problem is not following steps 1 thru 33; it is step 34 thru 66, putting it back together, that causes the problems. I long for the old days of Olympus OM-1's and Pentax K-1000 and such, where it was entirely mechanical. You look for something bound up or 'broken' and fix it. With todays cameras, they just stop working, and it is probably a 5 cent fuse somewhere that they soldered into place to save an additional 3 cents...
I've got several dead olympus digital cameras - fine condition but just won't power up...Maybe I'll try this exercise just to see if I can get them apart and back together close to the right way. Heck, my wife does jigsaw puzzles; this is about the same.
Thank you very much for the work!
They are all basicly the same inside. If yours has a movable lens that extends and retracts i would bet thats the problem.
Nothing has changed really, you still have mechanical parts and they are usualy the first thing that fails. Once the mechanical stuff fails then the electronics goes because the electronics is all controlled by motors.
The problem is they dont figure in wear. When they build these things they build everything to work but not for long term. What i mean is, when the unit is new and working it will draw "X" amount of amps. When it wears it will draw more but they have only designed the unit to function smooth new with all new parts. As the plastic wears it causes a little more friction and that puts more drain on the motors, then they need more power. The power draws from the power supply and its only designed to handle the new working smothly load.
Most camera use all surface mount componets, specaily small ones. If a fuse is blown you can probobly see it. It will look burnt and will look different then the other componets.
Here is what a burnt surface mount fuse looks like.
You ca usualy fallow the power board from the battery wires. They usualy are marked also with PCB or PWRBD somthing that stands for powerboard, power circuit
BowerR64, I don't know if it help's but the spring and bearing is from retractable lense (bottom lense on picture 30).It comes in the hole where a steele pole is going through. On the lense on picture 30 it is top left hole.
Can you show me? the spring went on the back of the lens mechanism. Its for the lens adjustment. The spring puts tension on the screws so when you use an adapter tube the vignetting is aligned in the adapter.