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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Monmouthshire, UK
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    2,152
    Frank, Grayden is underexposed again.
    All that shiny plastic in the foreground plays havoc with TTL metering and in manual can cause you to misinterpret the histogram.
    Anything in front of the subject will be strongly lit by the flash and have a disproportionate affect on exposure.
    Still, nothing is burned out so you can recover it in PS with selective exposure correction. Use layers and a layer mask.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    I will give it a try. I never tried selective exposure corrections.

    Thanks
    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    I opened file in PS created a new layer and applied a layer adjustment just to my grandson.

    Frank

    Name:  Graygen at Party Layers Adj.jpg
Views: 26
Size:  61.2 KB
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Monmouthshire, UK
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    2,152
    Frank, I was thinking more like this.

    Name:  Frank.jpg
Views: 51
Size:  186.6 KB

    Create a duplicate layer.
    Adjust the levels up without burning out any facial highlights.
    Create a mask and paint out everything except Grayden (so the levels adjustment only affects him)
    Flatten.
    Use the Dodge tool around the eyes.

    2 or 3 mins tops.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    I will give it another try. I have a bad eye for seeing if the image is underexposed.

    Thanks again
    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    God's Country - Australia
    Posts
    10,424
    Quote Originally Posted by sparkie1263 View Post
    I will give it another try. I have a bad eye for seeing if the image is underexposed.

    Thanks again
    Frank
    Thats what histograms are for.
    Do you use the lightmeter in your VF at all when you shoot ?

    The easiest way to avoid the reflection of the plastic is to use less flash which means let in more ambient light. If you shot that at iso800 we'd be looking at a different photo.
    Last edited by Rooz; 05-10-2011 at 05:32 AM.
    D800e l V3 l AW1 l 16-35 l 35 l 50 l 85 l 105 l EM1 l 7.5 l 12-40 l 14 l 17 l 25 l 45 l 60 l 75
    flickr

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    I do use the light meter but when you use flash you cannot. I do use the histogram when shooting to check the image. How do you use it in PS when you are making your adjustments? Can I use the adjustment brush in ACR or Lightroom to make these adjustments?

    Thanks
    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    God's Country - Australia
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    10,424
    Quote Originally Posted by sparkie1263 View Post
    I do use the light meter but when you use flash you cannot.
    Of course you can. This is precisely how you balance ambient light with your strobe. Meter the scene, if you are miles under according to your meter the shot will suck. The flash works as hard as you tell it to and the harder it works the less chance you have of pulling the shot off. The whole idea hete is to take a photo where the user has no idea whether or not you used a flash.
    D800e l V3 l AW1 l 16-35 l 35 l 50 l 85 l 105 l EM1 l 7.5 l 12-40 l 14 l 17 l 25 l 45 l 60 l 75
    flickr

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    This might be why I am having all these problems with flash.LOL After I meter the scene how do I know what to set the flash at? This is why I was asking about a light meter. I thought with TTL the camera will take control and set the power of the flash. If I keep the flash in auto it should set it to the correct power level.

    Thanks again
    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    God's Country - Australia
    Posts
    10,424
    Quote Originally Posted by sparkie1263 View Post
    This might be why I am having all these problems with flash.LOL After I meter the scene how do I know what to set the flash at? This is why I was asking about a light meter. I thought with TTL the camera will take control and set the power of the flash. If I keep the flash in auto it should set it to the correct power level.

    Thanks again
    Frank
    Frank what i am describing will only really work with ttl flash so its perfect for you. Ie dont set your flash to anything, it will work itself out. Your ambient light meter is actually what is telling your flash what to do. Ifits really dark its telling the flash to nuke the scene. If its pretty close to centre its telling your flash to just give the subject a kiss of light.

    So switch to manual mode in camera, leave the flash in ttl, look at your meter and adjust so its no more than a stop under. I prefer to stay around half or a third. Then snap away, youre telling your flash that all you need is a stop of light.

    Ttl is not anything more or less than metering which is in effect measuring. Thats all it is. A measurement of light... its metering light. The less light the more power the flash will generate. The more light the less power. The kicker here is that YOU tell the flash how much light there is by adjusting settings to get close to the centre of your meter.

    This is not gonnawork every time, sometimes you will needto spot meter to get the flash right. Sometimes theres just not enuf light to balance it out. But in almost all of the flash pics you have posted in this forum the above mwthod will have improved the shot 100%.

    Like i said to you before, i really think you are overcomplicating things. Get the basics right first with flash and then you can get all tricky. Juat trust me on this one and give it a shot. It'll even work with a sony. lol
    D800e l V3 l AW1 l 16-35 l 35 l 50 l 85 l 105 l EM1 l 7.5 l 12-40 l 14 l 17 l 25 l 45 l 60 l 75
    flickr

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