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Thread: ISO Test

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    2,562

    ISO Test

    I tried to do an ISO test. All images are cropped to 100%. They are on my Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/2208324...7626399492490/

    Frank
    Last edited by sparkie1263; 03-31-2011 at 10:41 AM.
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  2. #2
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    Yea, but you need to tell us how you processed them, or are they in camera JPEGs.

  3. #3
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    Sorry they are Jpeg right from the camera.

    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  4. #4
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    Peter is correct

    Thank you for the "first pass", Frank,

    As I examined the shots, I was curious to seek out the "muddiness factor" between the ISO 200 thru 12800 images, which is the typical backbreaker for most images at high-ISO. Where straight, sharp lines begin to blur and large patches of a solid "colored" wall begin to look more like a patchwork quilt.

    As I went back and forth between the images, though, my mind started asking all sort of questions, because the "exposure" seems to have changed (especially with the ISO-12800 shot), slightly, where it really should not have ... and I wanted to know the attributes of each exposure in order to justify the change, because they all interact with one another. There, of course, is just the image and its title ... and a lack of other pertinent info, in that regard.

    Basically, the ISO test is not an "auto" setting on the camera. There is the "P" mode, where you can specify the ISO and do that.

    D-R (Dynamic Range Optimization) has to be "off"
    White Balance should be set for the subject's lighting and NOT left in "AWB."

    But, again, you should record each Aperture and Shutter Speed change, so that viewer has a solid idea as to how the camera is "auto" coping with the shift in ISO and that information should be placed in the comment box, under each FLickr image. Then, my friend, we are talking the same language.

    In a MANUAL test ... all these should be calculated, before hand, based on the initial exposure for lighting ... then entered into the camera for each step in the test. It is a little more of a headache, but far more controlled.

    Again, thank you for this added effort. I can definitely see an improvement in the response over the α100. but without a side-by-side from the α100 of the same subject ... there is no way to quantify or qualify that evaluation.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  5. #5
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    Dec 2007
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    I can do a comparison between The A100 and the A580. Should I adjust the settings for each shot after I change the ISO?

    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  6. #6
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    Yes, Frank ... to be completely objective, the MANUAL settings for ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed should be identical between the cameras and adjusted in subsequent shots, as you progress, to give preciously the same exposure.

    For instance:

    @ ISO: 800

    Aperture: f/5.6
    Shutter Speed: 1/250

    A "calculated" equivalent exposure is:

    @ ISO: 200

    Aperture: f/4
    Shutter Speed: 1/125


    and another "calculated" equivalent exposure is:

    @ ISO: 6400

    Aperture: f/8
    Shutter Speed: 1/500


    The above settings are just an example of equivalence and not to be interpreted as any particular suggestion for a shot. Your initial "proper" exposure (Ev0) is the correct one to base your future setting variations upon.

    If all goes as planned, there should be no variation in the exposure at all. Ev0 should be Ev0 on your camera's meter, throughout your test. If there is variation, then something is amiss and should be investigated.

    Remember, lock the D-R to "off" and the White Balance should be set to one of the standard settings, NOT "AWB" to eliminate any lighting or sensor variables.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 03-31-2011 at 11:40 AM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    I just took all the shots in P mode. I never set the wB. I will post these and see what we get.

    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  8. #8
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    The idea of locking the WB and D-R is to remove
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    I just posted both the A100 and the A580. All images were jpeg right from the camera with the camera set to Program mode.

    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Diego, CA
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    602
    Quote Originally Posted by DonSchap View Post
    Yes, Frank ... to be completely objective, the MANUAL settings for ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed should be identical between the cameras and adjusted in subsequent shots, as you progress, to give preciously the same exposure.

    For instance:

    @ ISO: 800

    Aperture: f/5.6
    Shutter Speed: 1/250

    A "calculated" equivalent exposure is:

    @ ISO: 200

    Aperture: f/4
    Shutter Speed: 1/125


    and another "calculated" equivalent exposure is:

    @ ISO: 6400

    Aperture: f/8
    Shutter Speed: 1/500


    The above settings are just an example of equivalence and not to be interpreted as any particular suggestion for a shot. Your initial "proper" exposure (Ev0) is the correct one to base your future setting variations upon.

    If all goes as planned, there should be no variation in the exposure at all. Ev0 should be Ev0 on your camera's meter, throughout your test. If there is variation, then something is amiss and should be investigated.

    Remember, lock the D-R to "off" and the White Balance should be set to one of the standard settings, NOT "AWB" to eliminate any lighting or sensor variables.
    I would say to get the best comparison, aperature should remain the same in each exposure that way your DOF is not changing. I would make the corresponding exposure change in shutter speed, e.g.:

    200 ISO f8 at 1/125th
    400 ISO f8 at 1/250th
    800 ISO f8 at 1/500th
    1600 ISO f8 at 1/1000th
    3200 ISO f8 at 1/2000th
    6400 ISO f8 at 1/4000th
    12800 ISO f8 at 1/8000th (although you cant do a comparison with the A100 on that one)
    Darin Wessel
    α 900
    Zooms: Tamron SP AF70-200mm f2.8 Di LD Macro; Sigma 28-90mm D macro, Konica-Minolta 18-70 f3.5-5.6
    Primes: Minolta 28mm f2.8; Sony 50mm f1.4
    Minolta RC-1000 remote commander

    Film:
    Calumet Cambo CC400 4x5 View Camera
    YashikaMat 6x6 TLR (other accessories)
    Minolta Maxxum 7000 w/ Minolta 35-80mm f/4-5.6 & Minolta 2800 flash
    Minolta Maxxum 5000i & Vivitar 728 AFM flash
    What's next???

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