| |
 |
|
| |
|
-
Here is my two favorites.

Kit lens- 18-55
Aperture- f5.6
Shutter Speed- 1/100
ISO- 125
Camera Mode- A
Flash used- None
Tripod or Handheld- Handheld
Filter used- Multi Coated UV filter

Kit lens- 18-55
Aperture- f32
Shutter Speed- 1/4
ISO- 100
Camera Mode- A
Flash used- None
Tripod or Handheld- Camera was laying on a wooden deck
Filter used- Multi Coated UV filter
-
Switch, if they're your favourites, who's to argue.
To be a little critical, the exposure of the actual subject leaves something to be desired.
The bird is underexposed. The dark underside is blocked out, no detail.
The cascade is overexposed. The highlights are clipped.
Have you tried "Spot" metering?
-
I never change the exposure, its always set to 0.
And what do you mean by the highlights are clipped??
And also no i dont know what spot metering is.
-
Switch,
One thing I would recommend (as a fellow newbie) is reading the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson (also know as "the bible" by some). It explains many concepts fairly simply, including metering and even more importantly: where to take your meter reading from.
JR
-
Put politely they're good shots (I like the waterfall) but they could be better.
Highlights are clipped is like saying the highlights are blown. That is to say, the whitest parts of the image have gone to pure white and therefore contain no detail and therefore presumably no interest (white isn't much fun to look at).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_%28photography%29
D800, D300, D90, 24-70 f2.8, 70-200VR f2.8, 300 F4, 105 micro, 16-85VR, 50mm 1.8, Tammy 90 macro, 70-300VR, SB900, 2xSB600, MB-D10, 055XPROB 322RC2. New computers to run photoshop faster. C&C always appreciated. PhotoGallery
Pressing the shutter is the start of the process - Joe McNally ... Buying the body is the start of the process - Dread Pirate
-
 Originally Posted by DonSchap
I think I will reserve my opinion until you post EXIF data for your images, because as it stands, there really is nothing I could rationally comment on, without knowing some of that.
I mean, if you are simply posting for image recognition, there is POTD, but if you really want to discuss how to "improve" or "define" image control ... you need settings and situational data.
It's a small addition, but really can help when you need to adjust to improve your shots. Everybody is on the same page. 
all of the images have the exif data in tact. right click and use opanda iexif.
D800e l D60 IR l 16-35 f4 l 24-120 f4 l 24G l 50G l 60G l 85G l 105VR l 300VR l XE-1 l 18R l 35R
flickr
-
Ok so does this look better?
-
Switch, if only it were that simple.
Once the highlights are clipped you can't recover them.
The Histogram shows the light pixels piled up like a wall to the right.
That doesn't mean the image is a dead loss.
As it is, you've gone out of your way to remove detail and introduce motion blur in the water so you may be quite happy with the result.
-
Well how can you get all the light and dark pixels to be both right??
-
Not always possible.
The digital sensor doesn't have the dynamic range of the human eye.
When the dynamic range of the scene exceeds that of the sensor, it's up to you to decide whether to sacrifice shadow detail or highlight detail.
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|
|
|
|
Home | News | Digital
Camera Reviews & Info | Forums | Buyers
Guide | Digital Camera Prices | FAQ | About | Advertising | Feedback
All content, excluding forum posts, is © 1997 - 2012 Digital Camera Resource Page LLC (R).
|
|
|
|