Ok, I changed exposure time to max, which is 3s. I think I found one. It's in the top right corner. I circled it.
Originally Posted by sjseto
Last edited by Skylinux; 12-24-2005 at 08:39 PM.
i can see quite a few on that... you might want to look at it while verrry slowly scrolling from left to right and right to left, so you can distinguish it from dust on the monitor. Look at the lower left... there are two, fairly bright white spots
I went over the picture after posting and found more towards the bottom.
Originally Posted by alubkin
Thanks for confirming how they look like on a digicam.
I will update the picture to show more spots.
Thanx for the excellent article.
One thing to add to the arsenal of night photography is a black hat.
Long exposures may get ruined by incidental light,
a stray parking car nearby or a flashlight or camera flash cigarette lighter etc.
A black hat could be used to cover the lense for a moment or so (without touching the camera) until the offending light source is gone.
A human foreground subject can get flashed, cover the lense and the subject can walk away. If the poser was against a dark zone, all is well, but if the subject was blocking background light (s)he'll look like a ghost in the photo.
Exif which I read was like
Exposure Time = 10"
F Number = F6.3
Exposure Program = Manual
ISO Speed Ratings = 64
Exif Version = Version 2.2
Date Time Original = 2005-12-18 17:50:44
Date Time Digitized = 2005-12-18 17:50:44
Components Configuration = YCbcr
Compressed Bits Per Pixel = 5
Exposure Bias Value = Ī0EV
Max Aperture Value = F2.83
Metering Mode = Spot
Light Source = unknown
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 6.3mm
Fuji S6500 FD
Olympus FE115(For kids and wife)
nice tips thanks very much
i would like to know how to select the best shutter speed from the first time sime times i took 5 shots then i found the best shutter speed how to know from the first time ?
We should turn this into an interactive lesson. Try it and post our results and methodology.
Nikon D700/D300|17-35 f/2.8, 24-70 f/2.8, Sigmalux, 80-200 f/2.8, 16 f/2.8 fisheye,
Lots of flashes and Honl gear.
Hi, I just joined this forum and reading the tips provided here is great.
Regarding the tips for night shots, I have 1 question concerning Tip 2:
"This is how it works. The next time youíre out to take night photos, go ahead and snap a picture of Scene A, as you normally would. Then, when itís convenient, take a photo of the exact same Scene A again, but with the lens cap on."
I don't understand what you mean by take a photo of the same scene again with the lens cap on. Wouldn't that just give me a black image? And couldn't I just point my camera at any direction (with the same ISO, WB, A and S settings)?
That's right, you'll have a dark image with nothing in it but noise/hot spots. As the guide goes on to say,
"Now you will have two images, one night shot and one control shot (with the hot pixels). Load them up in say, Paint Shop Pro. Switch to the control shot and select Edit and Copy from the menu. Next, switch to the night shot and paste the copied image as a new layer. Then, select the new layer and change the Blend Mode to Difference and click OK. You’ll get the correct night shot with the hot spots subtracted out."
The dark image is used to isolate the noise/hot spots so you can remove them from the image in PP without affecting the rest of the image.
BTW I've never used this technique. I think you're right that you could point the camera in any direction.
Nikon D50, Nikkor 18-55mm, Nikkor 50mm 1.8, Sigma 70-300mm APO DG Macro, Tokina 12-24