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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560
    Then there's me, who uses MANUAL MODE darn near all the time ...


    Heck, I don't even trust AWB ...
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    326
    Quote Originally Posted by DonSchap View Post
    Then there's me, who uses MANUAL MODE darn near all the time ...


    Heck, I don't even trust AWB ...
    Hey Don,

    Joe McNally likens not trusting the camera or the meter on modern cameras to "taking a souped-up Ferrari and driving it like the little old lady going to church on Sunday". (See page 8 from The Hot Shoe Diaries: Big Light from Small Flashes by Joe McNally).
    I think he knows a thing or two about this stuff...so he says he spends 90% of the time in aperture priority mode.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    I have been using M mode more. Some times the +-ev don't get the best exposure.

    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560

    Question What works for ya

    You know, the best part of these cameras is ... yeah, the variety. One camera can suit a lot of different shooting styles. Like tonight, I appreciated the "Shutter Priority" mode of the α850, with indoor action shots on the basketball court. I wanted to the camera to have some freedom with the aperture, when it could, but more often than not, the aperture was flashing ... base-lined at wide-open with the shutter speed at 1/200 sec or faster and the ISO @ 1000/1600. It was right on the cusp of being almost too slow ... but a decent experience.

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    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    God's Country - Australia
    Posts
    10,424
    hmmmm
    ok...
    D800e l V3 l AW1 l 16-35 l 35 l 50 l 85 l 105 l EM1 l 7.5 l 12-40 l 14 l 17 l 25 l 45 l 60 l 75
    flickr

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Raleigh, NC, USA
    Posts
    788
    Quote Originally Posted by Elisha82 View Post
    I have to say the only time I ever use Manual mode is when i'm using off camera lighting.
    Otherwise I only use A or S.
    Me too. I live in A, I pretty much never even use S. I have heard Joe McNally say the same, among some others I can't remember off the top of my head. I have met people that say you have to use M, but I think using A and using exposure compensation to create the desired over or under exposure is the best process.

    I'll actually drop into P once in a while, often if using the on camera flash (Sony did a better job of TTL in A than Canon) and sometimes if I am using my DSLR the way I used to use a compact. I never use the green box.
    Jason Hamilton
    Selective Frame

    EOS 5D - Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF 35 f/2, EF 50mm f/1.8 Mk II, EF 70-210 f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF 85mm f/1.8 USM, EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro, Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 (with EOS adapter), 430EX, Canon S90
    Nikon FE - Nikkor 35mm f/2 AI'd, Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AI, Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 AI, F to EF adapter, 2xVivitar 285, other lighting stuff
    Mamiya C220 - 80mm f/2.8

    Gear List flickr

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Guelph, Ontario
    Posts
    1,903
    I set mine to full Auto when i hand it over to other people.
    Don't want them saying my camera is crappy cause it can't get anything in focus!
    Canon EOS 7D

    flickr
    FLUIDR

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    602

    Manual or Automatic Transmission????

    Quote Originally Posted by jr_rodriguez View Post
    Joe McNally likens not trusting the camera or the meter on modern cameras to "taking a souped-up Ferrari and driving it like the little old lady going to church on Sunday". (See page 8 from The Hot Shoe Diaries: Big Light from Small Flashes by Joe McNally).
    I think he knows a thing or two about this stuff...so he says he spends 90% of the time in aperture priority mode.
    Bad analogy ... Ferraris are manual shift where the driver controls the car, not an automatic where the driver lets the car do the thinking on when it's going to shift.

    Aperature Priority and Shutter Priority have their definite uses and benefits. They are kind of like the new generation automatic transmissions with manual shift where you have a bit more control. But often full manual has its benefits and can be far superior.

    Shutter Priority - Shooting action scenes where you want stop motion or other scenes where you want implied motion (blur), shutter priority is a great way to go. Stop action, set your shutter speed at 1/250th or greater depending on how fast your subject is and start firing away, especially with faster moving subjects because the camera will figure out the right aperature 95%-98% of the time and faster than anyone on the planet. Want blur for implied motion, 1/60th or slower is where you go.

    Aperature Priority Control your Depth of Field (DOF). Want that dreamy blurred background, go wide open. This can be extremely useful when there are distracting elements behind your subject ... blur them out of being distracting. Want everything in view sharp, f16 and up are great choices. Don't really care, f8-f11 are usually the optimum obtical quality for most lenses.

    Manual I love full manual and these days shoot full manual about 80% of the time. (Although I will admit my car is an automatic ... hey you try driving a stick shift in downtown LA stop-and-go traffic.) I like it because I have full control over aperature and shutter, especially in difficult lighting situations where you can get wide fluctuations in your meter readings.
    Darin Wessel
    α 900
    Zooms: Tamron SP AF70-200mm f2.8 Di LD Macro; Sigma 28-90mm D macro, Konica-Minolta 18-70 f3.5-5.6
    Primes: Minolta 28mm f2.8; Sony 50mm f1.4
    Minolta RC-1000 remote commander

    Film:
    Calumet Cambo CC400 4x5 View Camera
    YashikaMat 6x6 TLR (other accessories)
    Minolta Maxxum 7000 w/ Minolta 35-80mm f/4-5.6 & Minolta 2800 flash
    Minolta Maxxum 5000i & Vivitar 728 AFM flash
    What's next???

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Monmouthshire, UK
    Posts
    2,152
    A reminder that this thread is to help out Laura, a relative newbie. So I'll repeat my previous advice.

    1. Set the mode dial to (A)perture priority
    2. Learn how to read the histogram
    3. Use exposure compensation to correct the histogram.

    I think that's plenty to exercise a newbie without the complications of mastering full (M)anual. Getting to grips with (A) mode will, in any case, put her well on the way to mastering (M) mode.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    Quote Originally Posted by Peekayoh View Post
    A reminder that this thread is to help out Laura, a relative newbie. So I'll repeat my previous advice.

    1. Set the mode dial to (A)perture priority
    2. Learn how to read the histogram
    3. Use exposure compensation to correct the histogram.

    I think that's plenty to exercise a newbie without the complications of mastering full (M)anual. Getting to grips with (A) mode will, in any case, put her well on the way to mastering (M) mode.
    My A100 only has a +-3 so sometimes I do have to switch to M to get the right exposure. For the most part A mode is the way to go. I still use A mode most of the time. When you use M mode, as lightning changes you have to change your settings.

    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

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