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  1. #301
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Monmouthshire, UK
    Posts
    2,152
    Don, depends on your definition of acceptable and I realise you were fighting a losing battle with a slow shutter and small aperture.

    That comes down to that 3x T/C. In my experience, a 1.4x is acceptable, a 2x is pushing it, a 3x is a definite no-no. You're better off upscaling.

  2. #302
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554

    Red face Oops ...

    I was slightly misfocused - I'm not sure why the 70-400 figured something else to lock onto ... but, this shot did NOT have the 3x attached and should have been AF.

    What can I say ... it's a long way to Tipperary ... LOL
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  3. #303
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554

    Red face So, like ... there I was ...

    the polar bear comes floating up, for his "close-up" ... I have the circular polarizer OFF to eliminate the color-casting I have been getting in the retaining glass ... I back up to accommodate the 2-foot minimum focus distance and ... WHAM! Some gal's reflection shows up in the shot!

    Name:  Can-you-say-lunch.jpg
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Size:  386.5 KB
    α850 w/ SONY CZ 135mm f/1.8 & Tiffen ULTRA CLEAR filter
    @ 135 mm - f/6.3 - 1/125 sec. - ISO-400 - CWA - Sp Mode - Daylight


    I swear ... it ain't fair!
    Last edited by DonSchap; 11-07-2010 at 05:58 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  4. #304
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    God's Country - Australia
    Posts
    10,421
    Quote Originally Posted by DonSchap View Post
    the polar bear comes floating up, for his "close-up" ... I have the circular polarizer OFF to eliminate the color-casting I have been getting in the retaining glass ... I back up to accommodate the 2-foot minimum focus distance and ... WHAM! Some gal's reflection shows up in the shot!
    still wouldnt have worked Don, you;re too far away from the glass which is why the shot isnt very sharp and lacks alot of contrast and detail. may also be why your WB gets all funky.

    the only way to shoot thru glass effectively is to press your lens against the glass and focus right thru it. here are some examples all shot thru glass, some of which was filthy.







    so that means ditch the zeiss cos of MFD issues and whip out your macro or wide angle and try to shoot at large apertures. hope that helps.
    D800e l V3 l AW1 l 16-35 l 35 l 50 l 85 l 105 l EM1 l 7.5 l 12-40 l 14 l 17 l 25 l 45 l 60 l 75
    flickr

  5. #305
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554

    Lightbulb MACRO for the "bruiser"

    I really had not considered using the TAMRON SP AF 90mm f/2.8 Di MACRO for this kind of shot, but then again, I did not expect the bruin to get right on top of me, either, with only inches separating us.

    I did not have that lens with me, as I brought the three zooms (12-24, 24-70, 70-400); the Zeiss 135 f/1.8; the mecablitz flash system (which did not get used this time) and the 3 T/Cs, just to get some stretch from the zooms, if necessary.

    I have found that the 3x T/C on the 70-400 is just a mistake. You lose the autofocus capability of that expensive optic, immediately, because you are reading f/11 for your aperture at 400mm.

    The 3x T/C was designed to trick the electronics into only 2 f/stops of degradation, although there are REALLY 3 full stops of light loss to the sensor. With the lens limited to f/5.6 at 400mm normally, two f/stops ,more and you're at f/11 and autofocus deprived.

    Still, you are really at f/16.

    On an f/2.8 base aperture lens ... the two f/stop trick still allows autofocus to engage. It may still operate with an f/4 base aperture, but it gets a little iffy.

    I believe I would be better taking the 2032mm f/10 Telescope on the gimble mount, for some of this distant work. While the focus is still manual, the telescope's focus adjustment is very fine. As long as things aren't moving too quick, it could be a boon. It is just that set-up time and hauling it in is a little complex.

    I did purchase a light concentrating adapter lens for the telescope that takes the f/10 aperture and supposedly makes it a f/6.3 aperture. That I still have to see it to believe, but if it works ... this could be a very useful lens to get close-ups of the wolves, who just stay well off from the fence lines, unless there is food. Yes, I suppose the bait idea is one thing, but being haul off by the zoo police is quite another.

    I will bring the 90mm MACRO next time ... and see what I can turn out. It hardly weighs anything and I can find a place for it. It is just a little slow to autofocus and the lens does change its shape as it does so, so pressing it against the glass could be very detrimental to the lens' continued proper operation. Again, this looks like just another excuse for buying MORE glass ... I may have to spring for the TAMRON SP AF 60mm f/2 Di-II MACRO and use it in the APS-C mode ... as that swimming bear likes to keep moving. BTW: There is a $100 rebate on this lens until 12/31/2010.

    I was watching (clocking) how fast it goes through the water. Let me just say, if you fall into a lake with one of these things ... you're going to be on the menu. Forget out-swimming the beast ... if seals cannot ... where does that leave you? Yeah ... LUNCH!!! For having those little stumpy legs, his propulsion is truly amazing.

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    Last edited by DonSchap; 11-08-2010 at 07:42 AM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  6. #306
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,759
    looks like a real blockhead..

  7. #307
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554

    Talking He ticked off ...

    He ticked off the mob ... and in Chicago, that means "cement overshoes."

    Unfortunately (kind of), they just did not have his size!
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  8. #308
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554

    Thumbs up What fence?

    I do want to say that I did make good use of the CZ 135's f/1.8 wide aperture, by effectively blowing out the 3/8" diameter fence cables in the Bison Yard.

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    a850 w/ CZ 135mm f/1.8 & Kaeseman CP filter
    @ f/2 - 1/1000 sec. - ISO-200 - CWA - Ap Mode (<- might as well let the camera do something I paid for)

    It was like there was nothing there.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 11-08-2010 at 08:24 AM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  9. #309
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554

    Smile New Shoot

    Today was a new shoot in an old warehouse. I brought along a couple of models and wound up being a star just for having some. I do not know why these other students are having such difficulty rounding up their models ... they have to have more "friends" than I do, that's for darn sure.

    Anyway, popping a quick shot:


    a850 w/ SONY AF 50mm f/1.4
    @ f/14 - 1/250 sec. -ISO-250 - CWA - Studio Flash w/ "beauty dish" - Manual - Tripod

    and a "two-model" interaction shot:


    a850 w/ SONY AF 50mm f/1.4
    @ f/14 - 1/200 sec. -ISO-250 - CWA - Studio Flash w/ "beauty dish" - Manual - Tripod


    Building minimal bokeh shot


    a850 w/ SONY AF 50mm f/1.4
    @ f/10 - 1/125 sec. -ISO-250 - CWA - Slave flash & HVL-F20AM - Manual - Tripod

    Last edited by DonSchap; 11-12-2010 at 12:33 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  10. #310
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    316
    Quote Originally Posted by DonSchap View Post
    Today was a new shoot in an old warehouse. I brought along a couple of models and wound up being a star just for having some. I do not know why these other students are having such difficulty rounding up their models ... they have to have more "friends" than I do, that's for darn sure.

    Anyway, popping a quick shot:

    Attachment 55382
    a850 w/ SONY AF 50mm f/1.4
    @ f/14 - 1/250 sec. -ISO-250 - CWA - Studio Flash w/ "beauty dish" - Manual - Tripod

    and a "two-model" interaction shot:

    Attachment 55383
    a850 w/ SONY AF 50mm f/1.4
    @ f/14 - 1/200 sec. -ISO-250 - CWA - Studio Flash w/ "beauty dish" - Manual - Tripod


    Building Bokeh shot

    Attachment 55384
    a850 w/ SONY AF 50mm f/1.4
    @ f/10 - 1/125 sec. -ISO-250 - CWA - Slave flash & HVL-F20AM - Manual - Tripod

    Don,
    I realize I am a noob, but I don't understand why you are using such small apertures on portraits. I thought those were usually done with larger apertures (softens features, imperfections,etc). Also, it's affecting the bokeh, or lack thereof. Any particular reason for shooting like that?

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