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  1. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560

    Thumbs up Thanks for the instruction

    Darin,

    Thanks for the previous post of instruction on this green screen artifact removal. I am sure many will also find it quite helpful.

    There are many challenges to photography and "getting it right." It would be way cool if the camera had a matching feature to reduce the fringe effect, green or otherwise, since it would easily be something the photographer could identify to the firmware and let the camera's JPG-processing clean it up.

    Hmmm ... a "green screen" option in the menu. Awesome advanced protocol for the more aspects of image production. But, then again, optical purple fringing does not take any special capability, you only need a sharp transition between black & white (high contrast). Admittedly, it just sucks and can be pretty bad with various optics on the front of your camera.

    -- I wish Canon would quit sending me promotional material. They had their shot at my continued business, back in 2006 ... and I was not fooling when I left them behind in 2007. No anti-shake in the camera ... no bake in my oven. I had way too many third party lenses (90%) in my lens bag that did not have IS built into them. Sure, there may be a few new ones, today, but looking back, had I stuck with Canon, I would have been "sentencing" myself to another 5-years of no Image Stabilization anywhere, other than my tripod (as SONYNUT likes to point out), and STILL would not have it on MACRO and many, many PRIME lenses.

    Well, folks, with the SONY system, I received anti-shake with EVERY lens I mounted, no matter how old or fossilized ... or how new and sharp. I even have anti-shake on the telescope lens, when I handhold it! Yeah ... that's a great idea with a 2032mm, ten-pound lens <grunt> (You don't need anti-shake, you need anti-drop).

    The point is ... anti-shake is in there! ANY A-mountable* LENS!

    Using indoor, practical shutter speeds (1/15, 1/20, 1/30, 1/45, 1/60th), the images look very solid and it is a nice feeling knowing that when I sit down, in front of the PC, to make a closer inspection of my handheld shoot ... lines on non-moving subjects are sharp looking and not blurr-r-r-red. That saves time, re-shoots and makes ME smile, as the number of first-time "keepers" goes up. <insert "fist-pump" & "Boo-yah!">

    * - "A-mountable" means if you can adapt it to fit on the SONY. The camera has to have an ignore "lens missing" function if there is no electrical contact between the lens and the camera body, such as when using a T-mount adapter collar or a manual lens (e.g,, Samyang 8mm f/3.5, 14mm f/2.8, 85mm f1.4, TAMRON Adaptall2 series, etc).
    Last edited by DonSchap; 02-12-2011 at 08:13 AM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

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