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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    246

    suggest lighting for shooting videos with SX10 IS?

    Hi all... I am trying to shoot some videos of me playing the piano in the house, and I'm finding that the default lighting in the rooms where I'll be doing the shooting is sorely inadequate for shooting at night (which is the best time for me to shoot).
    I actually have 2 pianos I will be using, in separate rooms, so the lighting will be a bit different for each. Currently one room has 2 100-watt tungsten lights, and the other has basically 6 60-watt lights, 4 in a cluster in the middle of the room, 1 by the piano, 1 across the room.

    I'm on an extremely limited budget. Buying professional studio lights is likely out of the question. I don't think I can even afford a Canon Speedlite 220EX or whatever is Canon's lowest base model of hotshoe flash, not that it would work for my purposes anyway.

    The first 2 pics link to the Picasa album where the images are hosted. From there, you should be able to view the exif/exposure info, so you can see the limited light that I am currently working with. I'm seeing that I typically need at least 4-5 stops more light than I currently have. What would you suggest using to get that? Is there an on-camera (Canon hotshoe-mount) video light that might work, or would I need to get one of those lamps on a stand with a diffuser in front of it? I want the lighting to be as even as possible, hence the thinking that I would use a diffuser.

    Is there some, say, 250-500-watt Halogen floor/stand lamp or two I could pick up at a hardware store, plus get a diffuser, or do you guys have other suggestions? Could the Speedlite 220 EX (absolute top of my budget if I stretch, I think, $100 @ B&H online) be configured as continuous lighting, even if it's not quite as intense as when it's used as a flash, or would that not get me the 4-5 stops increase in light (at an approximate distance of 10-20 feet or so) that I need?



    First, here's the 2 rooms - overall view. The piano is toward the back right in both cases. In one of the rooms there is a baby grand piano, but I won't be using that one. (The upright sitting next to it is, imo, a better piano.)


    Now, pics of the approximate view the camera will have (although I will probably adjust it as I see fit)....
    Piano/Room #1, almost(?) fast enough shutter speed (1/50, video = 30fps), ISO boosted (3200) for proper exposure:


    Piano/Room #1, maybe fast enough shutter speed (1/30"), ISO dropped to level I'd like to be able to set it at (100), underexposed:



    Piano/Room #2, fast enough shutter speed (1/30"), ISO boosted (1600) for proper exposure:


    Piano/Room #2, good enough shutter speed (1/30"), ISO dropped to level I'd like to be able to set it at (100), underexposed:


    Piano/Room #2, ISO dropped (100), properly exposed, much-too-slow shutter speed (1/2"):




    Also, while I'm at it, (and this time, I'm not asking about lights within a certain budget, as I have no plans to buy them anytime soon (unless they are surprisingly cheap compared to what I'm thinking they'd be (like move the decimal point 3-4 places))), what lighting would I need so that for taking still photos, you can get images properly exposed with almost no motion blur (1/4000" if possible), good depth of field (F/32 on a DSLR at hyperfocal with a typical WA lens, or F/8 on a compact at hyperfocal WA), low noise (similar to ISO 50 on a Canon 5D Mark II), without blinding people that look directly at the light source? Or is that not possible with today's lighting technology, regardless of budget, not to mention that I probably should scale the 1/4000", ISO 50, F/32 preferences back so a typical ultracompact (that may only be capable of 1/1000", ISO 100, F/8) can take pictures there?
    Last edited by pianoplayer88key; 09-17-2009 at 06:14 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    not this again. sheesh...come on man.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    246
    Rooz! wth!

    I'm not asking how to buy a dang new camera, jeez!! I'm just asking what lights do I need to improve the lighting for some video I want to shoot. WTF is wrong with that?
    Did you even read any of the flippin' post?


    What lighting do I need to increase the current light in the room by 4 or 5 stops? Currently I get about 1/2" at ISO 100 and F/2.8, and would like to be able to get at least 1/30" to 1/60" at ISO 100 and F/4.0 to F/5.6 or so. Should I use a Canon hotshoe-mounted flash, or get some halogen lamps mounted on a floor stand at a hardware store, or something else?
    Last edited by pianoplayer88key; 09-17-2009 at 07:35 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
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    LOL.

    Shooting video, amateur shooting at least, require less light than still shots. You can search for cheap video light system (constant lights) on ebay, if you are on budget. Just make sure you choose a seller with good rating.

    I doubt any cheap video lights can give you 1/60" at ISO 100 and F/4.0 to F/5.6. Also the problem with halogen lamps for still shots is the white balance.
    Nikon D90, D80
    Nikkor 16-85mm AF-S DX F/3.5-5.6G ED VR, Tamron SP AF 28-75mm F/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF) macro, Nikkor 50mm F/1.4D, Nikkor 50mm F/1.8D, Nikkor AF-S VR 70-300mm F/4.5-5.6G IF-ED, Sigma 105mm F/2.8 EX DG Macro ||| 2x SB800 | SB600 ||| Manfrotto 190XB

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    What's your definition of cheap? I would consider something like $20 or so to be very cheap, $50-70 to be reasonable, $100 to be the top (for my budget). I'm not doing this to make money, hence the much lower budget than a typical pro (who IS doing it for money) might have.

    Would it be better to use a camera-mounted light, or a separate light? I'm leaning toward a separate light or two, but don't know what to go for.
    Would any of these (the ones under $70-100, but probably not under $20-25) be ok? Or should I look at some under-$100 floor/stand lighting (HMI is totally out of my league) from a camera shop?

  6. #6
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    Dec 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by pianoplayer88key View Post
    what lighting would I need so that for taking still photos, you can get images properly exposed with almost no motion blur (1/4000" if possible), good depth of field (F/32 on a DSLR at hyperfocal with a typical WA lens, or F/8 on a compact at hyperfocal WA), low noise (similar to ISO 50 on a Canon 5D Mark II), without blinding people that look directly at the light source? Or is that not possible with today's lighting technology, regardless of budget, not to mention that I probably should scale the 1/4000", ISO 50, F/32 preferences back so a typical ultracompact (that may only be capable of 1/1000", ISO 100, F/8) can take pictures there?
    its the middle of the day here. super bright sunny day. if i shoot at f32, iso100 the fastest shutter i could probably get is around 1/500. if i aim directly at the sun i'd probably click over to 1/8000s. so what you;d need is a lightsourse like the sun in your living room.

    what you're asking is completely and utterly ridiculous and i dont know how many times we have to CONSTANTLY point this out to you. are you just plain thick or just dont listen ?
    D800e l V3 l AW1 l 16-35 l 35 l 50 l 85 l 105 l EM1 l 7.5 l 12-40 l 14 l 17 l 25 l 45 l 60 l 75
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  7. #7
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    Mar 2005
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    I'd prefer not to use ebay if I can avoid it.

    Which is better, on-camera (hotshoe-mount) lighting, or off-camera lighting? I'm leaning toward off-camera lighting, but if the former is better I'd consider that.
    Would one of these lights (in the $25-75 range) be good enough, or should I look at a lighting kit/system from a camera store?
    Also, my camera (Canon SX10 IS) does have a manual white balance setting, so I would think pretty much any type of light source should work.




    Rooz, that was just an insignificant footnote. The real question was what lighting do I need in my living room to be able to properly expose at 1/60", ISO 100, F/4.0, +/- 1-2 stops. You must also have missed the "disclaimer" "or is that not possible with today's technology" or however I put it. Your post seems to answer that question very well. Also, if I was going to attempt something like that, I wouldn't use a single point light source (which would be super bright), I would try basically a ring of ceiling/wall-mounted lights all around the perimeter, which combined would hopefully give off a reasonable amount of light, but individually wouldn't be so bright that you couldn't look directly at them.
    But, enough of that nonsense. What lighting do I need to get an exposure of 1/60", ISO 100, F/4.0, up from the current level of 1/2", ISO 100, F/2.8? The pics below give a general idea of what I will be shooting.


    The pianos are both moderately underexposed, but I'm not sure how much I can boost the exposure - I don't want myself to be a blown-out highlight.
    Last edited by pianoplayer88key; 09-17-2009 at 08:38 PM.

  8. #8
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    Jul 2005
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    A hot shoe mount light will restrict the distance to about 10 feet.
    What I meant by cheap is around $100 max; keep in mind you will only get what you pay for and don't expect miracle out of it. This is what I have in mind.
    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SLIVER-Profes...d=p3286.c0.m14
    Nikon D90, D80
    Nikkor 16-85mm AF-S DX F/3.5-5.6G ED VR, Tamron SP AF 28-75mm F/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF) macro, Nikkor 50mm F/1.4D, Nikkor 50mm F/1.8D, Nikkor AF-S VR 70-300mm F/4.5-5.6G IF-ED, Sigma 105mm F/2.8 EX DG Macro ||| 2x SB800 | SB600 ||| Manfrotto 190XB

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by pianoplayer88key View Post
    Rooz, that was just an insignificant footnote.
    Then stop adding them to your posts. They make it very difficult to take you seriously, especially considering your posting history.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Brisbane, CA
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    Making YouTube videos? I say you take the $100 and put it towards a maid.
    Lukas

    Camera: Anonymous
    I could tell you but I wouldn't want you to get all pissy if it's the wrong brand

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