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ouch....now keep the shots coming!
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The color was awesome ...
 Originally Posted by Elisha82
ouch....now keep the shots coming!
Inbound ... & barefootin'! See?
α700 w/ CZ 135mm f/1.8
@ f/1.8 - 1/160 sec. - ISO-800 - Spot Focus - Manual - Daylight
"Swivel Skiing"
α700 w/ CZ 135mm f/1.8
@ f/1.8 - 1/125 sec. - ISO-800 - Spot Focus - Manual - Daylight
Last edited by DonSchap; 08-25-2009 at 08:58 PM.
Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
A Photographer Is Forever
Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.
flickr® & Sdi
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Stretching a P-R--I---M----E
For fun, I decided on getting a Kenko Teleplus PRO 300 "DG" AF 3x Teleconverter, allowing the AF 200mm f/2.8 APO G HS to become a 600mm f/8 APO G kinda-HS. 
A 3x T/C does add some real reach, but I have never been a T/C fan ... as it instantly cripples f/3.5 & f/4 lenses into becoming Manual Focus and usually diminishes Image Quality along the way. I am hoping that will not be the case with the f/2.8 or the f/1.8 lenses. Obviously, more to come when the T/C arrives.
Imagine, belly-button shots from 1/2-way across the beach! LOL What's that ... oh yeah ... lint!
Last edited by DonSchap; 08-26-2009 at 11:34 AM.
Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
A Photographer Is Forever
Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.
flickr® & Sdi
-
enjoying your pictures! it looks like fun heh
has anyone used the tamron 70-300mm? I've just got an A200 and want more range for when I go on holiday, but dont have loads of money, seriously considering getting one - or similar, im open to suggestions
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 Originally Posted by tomr182
enjoying your pictures! it looks like fun heh
has anyone used the tamron 70-300mm? I've just got an A200 and want more range for when I go on holiday, but dont have loads of money, seriously considering getting one - or similar, im open to suggestions
I have one and use it for all my bird images. It has a slow AF but I do get some good images with it. It needs light so if you are shooting inside forget it. There are other members who have it. Some sold it to upgrade to a better lens. Don will give you more insight I am sure.
Frank
PS you can check out my Flickr site and see some of the images.
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Always choices ...
 Originally Posted by tomr182
enjoying your pictures! it looks like fun heh
has anyone used the tamron 70-300mm? I've just got an A200 and want more range for when I go on holiday, but don't have loads of money, seriously considering getting one - or similar, I'm open to suggestions
This response is a little "OT" (off-topic), but for the $159 ... the TAMRON AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di LD is the best deal for a telephoto lens currently available.
Now, please do not confuse that statement as being the same as being the "best telephoto zoom lens", because it certainly is not. That title usually is bestowed on a 70-200mm lens, which is considerably more money and if you are getting serious about your photography, you should eventually lean in that direction.
But, because you are couching your camera bag with a limited budget (always a challenge in photography) ... your choices have to be a little more "bang for the buck" oriented.
There are two ways to go about that:
A. Broken-up focal lengths
- TAMRON SP AF 17-50mnm f/2.8 XR Di-II LD
- TAMRON AF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 Di LD
B. All-in-one solutions
- TAMRON AF 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di-II LD
The wisdom behind the "All-in-one" lens solution is that this particular lens does deliver a decent image and can happily give you just about any conventional shot frame you would usually run into, without having to change the lens. That spells "convenience" and if you are on the go ... well, less time worrying about what to take with you. It is basic best used outdoors, but if you insist on doing indoor work, getting a flash (HVL-F42AM) would be advised.
The advantage of the "broken-up" focal lengths, is that the 17-50mm f/2.8 is a darn good indoor lens ... and your struggle with available lighting should be a lot less involved. Using the 75-300 should be outdoor-only ... as it is a "dark" lens, starting at f/4 @ 70mm ... and darkens up to f/4.5 @ 135mm, f/5 @ 200 and to f/5.6 by around 270mm. This "creeping" aperture is part of the design, but truly limits its use indoors. It needs some substantial light source to work and deliver a relatively decent shot.
This is a lot of information, to be sure, but armed with it ... you can make better decisions in your photographic equipment choices. Reading through the material written in this forum is an education that is hard to put a value on. Many issues are unaddressed in most photography books, but the DCRP forum takes these issues to task and usually gets the answer.
Anyway, I hope this helped in your understanding. Please read the 'sticky posts' at the beginning of the SONY DSLR threads. There is a lot of basic and good information to be found there concerning lens choices.
Last edited by DonSchap; 08-26-2009 at 05:10 PM.
Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
A Photographer Is Forever
Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.
flickr® & Sdi
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 Originally Posted by DonSchap
Yes, he purposely ejected from his skis ... to go "barefooting" ... at 25 mph! He'd didn't quite make it, unfortunately.
I put a series of shots with the Minolta AF 200mm f/2.8 APO G HS & the SONY CZ 135mm f/1.8 lenses, from Saturday night, (8/22) on my Facebook (<- click on this link). I even went for using my new HVL-F58AM flash in several of the later shots.
I wanted some light challenged shots to learn this new lens and how to make better use of it. The evening performance under the setting sun and the rather limited stage lighting did that.
A good rule of thumb for Footers on the Long Line (behind the boat); body weight divided by 10 + 17 MPH is average speed. One foot add 7 MPH.
Nice series of shots Don. Love to see these kind of photos. Few photographers shoot these kind of pictures.
This guy crashed and burned because he jabbed is right heal in. LOL
TOES UP!!
A.J.
Hey this looks dangerous.......You go first!
If at first you don't succeed, Skydiving is not for you! 
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wow! cheers for the quick responses guys
I hadn't considered the 18-250mm but am seriously looking at it now, given the fact I wouldn't have to change lenses for a while - ie untill I get good and want to upgrade further etc
Ive had a read of all the posts and theyre very useful, certainly helped in getting me going etc, now I just need practice 
I know its a little off topic (I will start new thread if needs be) but I am going to USA next week (I live in UK) and everything else is cheaper in USA camera wise. Is there anything else I should consider buying while I can get things cheaper? Stuff that may come in handy 6 months down the line etc
thanks again, you guys are all excellent! one day I may even be able to help advise heh
EDIT
the 18-250mm is quite noticeably more expensive, ive seen the 18-200mm tamron, how does that fair? as thats still more than 70-300mm but i can afford it
Last edited by tomr182; 08-27-2009 at 02:57 PM.
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Well, consider a flash ... preferably the HVL-F58AM ... because you can grow directly with that as the base unit. But, there is the argument of just spending a minimum amount ... and going with the HVL-F42AM ... and when you are ready to expand, you can add the '58.
Either way holds its own ... but, get a flash, if you plan on the purchase of the 18-250mm. Get ahead of your lighting needs. It's absolute hell when you get behind. 
Good luck
Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
A Photographer Is Forever
Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.
flickr® & Sdi
-
really appreciate the swift response although after reading around im still no closer lol
im going to start a thread as to not hijack this one hehe
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