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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554

    Lightbulb No flash required.

    You can do it without a flash, just select f/10 and commence rapid fire ... single shot is a little tougher. It should show up as a definite Ev change between shots. The aperture sticks open ... overexposing the shot.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 07-02-2009 at 09:20 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,759
    make sure the arm on the lens is not bent and dragging

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    602
    Quote Originally Posted by DonSchap View Post
    You can do it without a flash, just select f/10 and commence rapid fire ... single shot is a little tougher. It should show up as a definite Ev change between shots. The aperture sticks open ... overexposing the shot.
    Don,

    Looks like you might be out alone on this one.

    All of my exposures with those settings appeared to come out the same. About the only thing I noticed was that the MM indicator tended to fluctuate from +.3ev to -.3ev very easily and at times approaching .7ev. Not sure yet if that had any effect on the exposures.
    Darin Wessel
    α 900
    Zooms: Tamron SP AF70-200mm f2.8 Di LD Macro; Sigma 28-90mm D macro, Konica-Minolta 18-70 f3.5-5.6
    Primes: Minolta 28mm f2.8; Sony 50mm f1.4
    Minolta RC-1000 remote commander

    Film:
    Calumet Cambo CC400 4x5 View Camera
    YashikaMat 6x6 TLR (other accessories)
    Minolta Maxxum 7000 w/ Minolta 35-80mm f/4-5.6 & Minolta 2800 flash
    Minolta Maxxum 5000i & Vivitar 728 AFM flash
    What's next???

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,759
    ..IF IT'S NOT THE LENS


    You also need the wb set to a # or it will fluctuate....stabilizer off....anything that can change will change..

    I have to go full manual for my animations oR the CAMERA'S computer will try to compensate for everything

    Last edited by SONYNUT; 07-04-2009 at 11:40 AM.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554

    Cool Alternative designs ...

    Well, unless I use the wider apertures ... I can avoid the 50mm f/1.4. The wider apertures do not display the problem, actually ... as the lens cannot "accidentally" overexpose at its widest settings. Only when it is stopped down.

    I suppose I could just purchase the SIGMA 50mm f/1.4 EX DB HSM 77mm

    Name:  SIGMA 50mm f14 ex dg hsm.jpg
Views: 55
Size:  6.8 KB


    and be done with it, since apparently SONY cannot seem to simply fix "one of their own."

    It is troubling ... ( grumble), considering that it is a rather simple design.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 07-04-2009 at 07:57 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,759
    the nice thing about film slr camearas that i miss..you can open the back and look through to see what was messing up...grrrrrrrrrrr

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,759
    don..do you have a old 7000 or something???

    that will tell ya what the lens is doing

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554
    True ... you need fast eyes to catch it though
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Monmouthshire, UK
    Posts
    2,152
    If you buy a Sigma, I'm sure someone will buy the Sony (me for instance).

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554
    You need it, huh? Well .. the pond is wide and deep ... let me order a SIGMA 50mm f/1.4 in here for evaluation and I'll see what we can do. Considering it got a "clean bill of Health" from SONY Depot repair ... perhaps three hundred and shipping. Darn thing is almost in new condition (so they say), w/o warranty ... so, as is.

    Edit: I just shot another series ... and the problem has settled down, as far as I can tell, on both the A100 and A700. I love consistency
    Last edited by DonSchap; 07-04-2009 at 08:08 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

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