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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Carlsbad CA
    Posts
    523

    filters, shoeys a noob help him!

    I need a filter for my tamron 17-50 because dang is it bright when i bike and shoot! I need a polarizing filter correct?
    Also i see they have infared ones, do these really work?
    Any help would be awesome
    sony A300
    tamron 17-50 2.8
    Sony SAL 11-18
    Sony 35 1.8

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    IR lets you do cool things with plants in a black and white way, that's probably not what you need (if you have no idea what it does).

    UV filters protect your lens. They do nothing to the image.

    A polarizer will help cut down on light. I would either look at getting a polarizer or a ND8 filter. When you say it's really bright, you want to be shooting at F/2.8 is that correct? If you can help it, shoot at 100 ISO outdoors and stop down the lens a bit.
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Carlsbad CA
    Posts
    523
    I know what IR is, I just want to know if the IR filters actually work or not.

    Yeah I shoot at iso100 and do alot of other things but it still seems too bright and the cloud turn into crap. So im going to try and get my hands on a polarizer

    but yes do the ir ones really work good?
    sony A300
    tamron 17-50 2.8
    Sony SAL 11-18
    Sony 35 1.8

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    If it's cloudy, a polarizer may not be all that effective.

    Looks like you are probably going to need to meter for the sky if it's really prominent and use fill flash to light your subject.
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Windy Wyoming, USA
    Posts
    2,605
    A circular polarizer is a good idea. Also get a graduated neutral density filter. I believe the ND8 dr4gon mentioned is a 2-stop. I'd suggest a 3-stop, which I believe is called a 1.2 (every .4 is a stop, if I have it right.) You can even use polarizers and GNDs together, if you want. Get the square/rectangular GNDs. Then you either handhold them in front of the lens (that's what I do) or you get the little filter holder.

    It probably won't be necessary to use fill flash, unless you want to for creative purposes.
    Nikon D50, Nikkor 18-55mm, Nikkor 50mm 1.8, Sigma 70-300mm APO DG Macro, Tokina 12-24
    Flickr

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    I'm pretty sure the Hoya ND8s are 3 stops
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Windy Wyoming, USA
    Posts
    2,605
    You're right, thanks for the heads up. This is what I found on B&H:


    • 2x = ND.3 (exposure adjustment = 1 stop, reduces ISO 1/2)

    • 4x = ND.6 (exposure adjustment = 2 stops, reduces ISO 1/4)

    • 8x = ND.9 (exposure adjustment = 3 stops, reduces ISO 1/8)

    So what I have is actually the 1.2, a 4-stop filter. I highly recommend it and wouldn't use less than .9 during the daytime.
    Nikon D50, Nikkor 18-55mm, Nikkor 50mm 1.8, Sigma 70-300mm APO DG Macro, Tokina 12-24
    Flickr

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Carlsbad CA
    Posts
    523
    thanks i bought a polarizer today and a red filter. They both work pretty good, i May say tho the red filter for black and whites is awesome! I love what it does. makes everything look old and crazy! here are some examples.




    also anyone used a IR filter lol
    sony A300
    tamron 17-50 2.8
    Sony SAL 11-18
    Sony 35 1.8

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554

    Question IR ... the question remains

    Normally the camera's sensor is designed to eliminate IR response. I'm not sure if an IR-filter would even work on the SONY sensors. I defer to an experienced individual or simply placing a phone call to B&H and asking one of their "experts" on the issue.

    Fujifilm created a special DSLR camera, the "IS PRO" ...

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    that is designed for UV and IR work. It's pretty expensive, hard to get and usually used for forensic work. So, there it is, for what it is worth.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 06-13-2009 at 03:46 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Monmouthshire, UK
    Posts
    2,152
    Personally, I wouldn't mess around with Red filters and stuff, Photoshop can do all I need.
    CP, ND and ND Grads are indispensable (almost) but the other are too much hassle.

    I did this with the Channel Mixer in about 30secs.

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