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  1. #51
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Des Plaines, IL
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    Cool Most excellent ... some real proof of concept ... one way or the other

    Same here ... I guess that closes that book ... it is mere a trim job of the sensor.

    The first post in the image would have definitely blurred more ... and did not. Oh well, it definitely worth a look and bears out the "crop was done on the cheap side" principle.

    Many thanks, Darin.

    So, my newer APS-C/A900 overlay edit is appropriate and stands.

    I should probably have the 20mm f/1.8 lens later this week.

    Finishing college, for my Associates Degree (yay), takes precedent this week. Two pieces finally completed. I tell you, not having a degree, these days, is a real serious problem. Without it, your resume seems to quickly find the "circular file" in the HR offices, no matter how much experience you bring to the table. I have years and years of military technical training and two decades of on-the-job experience ... probably could teach classes on it ... but, it does not count. Heck, they won't even interview you. Tough times, for sure.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 05-31-2009 at 10:03 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    Quote Originally Posted by seanhoxx View Post
    o.K. first of all, does the center focus item the orange look like a yellow lemon or is it my monitor? I first rolled through the images going where the hell is the orange!
    It's yellow.
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    602
    Quote Originally Posted by seanhoxx View Post
    o.K. first of all, does the center focus item the orange look like a yellow lemon or is it my monitor? I first rolled through the images going where the hell is the orange!
    Much to my dismay, when I showed the posting to my spouse, it was pointed out ... uhm ... honey, that was one of the lemon's I left on the lawn, not one of the oranges. But, alas, it was from our grafted tree ... that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
    Darin Wessel
    α 900
    Zooms: Tamron SP AF70-200mm f2.8 Di LD Macro; Sigma 28-90mm D macro, Konica-Minolta 18-70 f3.5-5.6
    Primes: Minolta 28mm f2.8; Sony 50mm f1.4
    Minolta RC-1000 remote commander

    Film:
    Calumet Cambo CC400 4x5 View Camera
    YashikaMat 6x6 TLR (other accessories)
    Minolta Maxxum 7000 w/ Minolta 35-80mm f/4-5.6 & Minolta 2800 flash
    Minolta Maxxum 5000i & Vivitar 728 AFM flash
    What's next???

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    602

    Lemons, Lemons

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    A900 w/ Sigma 28-90 D Macro; 90mm macro @ f/5.6, 1/100sec, ISO 400
    Darin Wessel
    α 900
    Zooms: Tamron SP AF70-200mm f2.8 Di LD Macro; Sigma 28-90mm D macro, Konica-Minolta 18-70 f3.5-5.6
    Primes: Minolta 28mm f2.8; Sony 50mm f1.4
    Minolta RC-1000 remote commander

    Film:
    Calumet Cambo CC400 4x5 View Camera
    YashikaMat 6x6 TLR (other accessories)
    Minolta Maxxum 7000 w/ Minolta 35-80mm f/4-5.6 & Minolta 2800 flash
    Minolta Maxxum 5000i & Vivitar 728 AFM flash
    What's next???

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    Speaking of going wide, the tamron 10-24mm should be available in a matter of months, after waiting nearly a year....

    http://www.dpreview.com/news/0906/09...sonypentax.asp
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
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    9,560
    It is depressing how long it takes to get a lens out there. The last debacle was with the TAMRON SP AF 70-200mm f/2.8 Di LD, but I am almost certain that one had a lot to do with Nikon's crappy little D40 debacle and their lack of a focusing motor in the body. TAMRON had to refit a good deal of their lenses to accommodate that ... "idea."

    As for the 10-24's stall ... it is probably directly a result of SONY's new little lenses for the +30 cameras.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 06-03-2009 at 05:40 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Raleigh, NC, USA
    Posts
    788
    Quote Originally Posted by dr4gon View Post
    Speaking of going wide, the tamron 10-24mm should be available in a matter of months, after waiting nearly a year....

    http://www.dpreview.com/news/0906/09...sonypentax.asp
    Sadly that lens is sounding less and less like a good option. Spec wise it is a great range and aperture, but apparently the images aren't great.

    However if we see Tokina with an A-mount, that would be nice. As Rooz was pointing out earlier they offer some of the best APS wide lenses. If you want range the 12-24 has it, and for cheap. If you want speed or sharpness the 11-16 is almost certainly the sharpest crop UWA, the only downside is you basically are getting a prime.

    Don, I expect you will have an excellent performer in that 20. Hopefully without having to send it back. I'm thinking quite a bit about a wide Sigma prime in the near future. I wish Canon offered a 24mm f/1.8 USM for the same price and performance as the 85 USM, but that is not the case. So off to Sigma I may go.
    Jason Hamilton
    Selective Frame

    EOS 5D - Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF 35 f/2, EF 50mm f/1.8 Mk II, EF 70-210 f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF 85mm f/1.8 USM, EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro, Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 (with EOS adapter), 430EX, Canon S90
    Nikon FE - Nikkor 35mm f/2 AI'd, Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AI, Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 AI, F to EF adapter, 2xVivitar 285, other lighting stuff
    Mamiya C220 - 80mm f/2.8

    Gear List flickr

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
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    Cool SIGMA AF 20mm f/1.8 DG EX RF Aspherical arrives ...

    The UPS guy drives up and voila ... she is here!

    So ... I bound upstairs and throw it on the α700, for quick side by side-with-the SIGMA AF 10-20mm f/4-5.6 DC EX because ... I basically want to see precisely what advantage I am going to get by going PRIME (I'll compare the TAMRON SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II LD Aspherical to it later on).

    The first thing you notice is that the 20mm f/1.8 PRIME and the 10-20mm f/4-5.6 Zoom are almost identical in overall size, except that the PRIME has a protective glass "cover" over the first element. The Zoom does not (don't ask me, I don't know).

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    Then, I find that after shooting through both lenses, the 10-20mm is not a real 10-20! It is more like a 10-19mm as these images at 20mm do not match in magnification. I'll get more precise, later, but initially, it is noticeable.

    Thirdly ... big color change. With the α700's built-in flash, the 10-20 response tends to wash out the color. This is noticeable, when you are taking images. I mean I can adjust through saturation and other flash settings, but this was a simple replacement of one lens for the other and wow ... bad news. The PRIME is so much more ... luxurious with its color under flash. You basically can get what you see with it ... which makes color matching and calibration a hell of a lot easier. WYSIWYG.

    Also, the 10-20 shoots a warmer color (a bit more of a yellow cast to it) than the PRIME.

    Okay ... as I had hoped ... a much easier time with indoor stabilization. I am taking sharp, clear Tungsten shots at f/1.8 @ 1/15 sec ISO-400. To shoot f/5.6 ... the speed is up around 1/2 sec for the same Ev, otherwise you introduce noise as you creep up the ISO.

    Because focusing is taking place at f/1.8 and not f/5.6 ... you get rocket focus response with the PRIME, as you would probably expect.

    So, I'm not too sure why the zoom is giving "fits" to the internal flash system ( it is causing the flash to shoot at 1 to 1.5 f-stops hotter) , but the PRIME's TTL response looks quite good. At ISO-200 and 1/60th sec., TTL built-in flash response does not seriously fall off until around f/13.

    Overall, the images appear sharper than the 10-20mm, but I only mention this because I had my 10-20 "factory tuned" by SIGMA last January ... and it really was very, very sharp. Also, the 10-20 zoom is shooting through an f/5.6 base aperture ... while the PRIME shoots equal sharpness at f/2.8. It is wide open at its base of f/1.8, its "softest" setting and the images soften accordingly.

    100% crop

    Distance: 18-inches

    At 10-feet, f/2.8, the DOF allows you to shoot quite a bit in focus. Heck, at six-feet ... I got clarity all the way back to at least 8-feet. And do that with a50mm f/1.7. You can detail without having to seriously worry about DOF blurring the "ends" your lengthy images, e.g., shooting along the side of a car or truck. With a 50mm lens, you cannot shoot at less than f/7.1 and get a clean, long focus shot. I will try to demonstrate this idea later.

    Again, if you only have a UWA Zoom ... this comparison is rather arbitrary. You will adapt your UWA and that will be that, because overlap only occurs at a few places. Once you add the PRIME lens ... then you begin to see the serious differences in performance of the two lenses. Each has an advantage to the other .. and picking the BEST lens for your project is really where all this comes into play. If you have only ONE lens ... the choice even becomes moot.

    This is just a few moments of initial investigation. A bit more than you could probably do in the store. I hope this helps someone in their considerations.

    So, OOTB ... this SIGMA lens appears to be a winner, although I reserve the right to append this with further and more diverse investigation. Well, that's one for three. Yeah, I'm keeping it.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 06-03-2009 at 08:03 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560

    Red face No big rush, in my estimation

    The argument for the TAMRON AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II LD Aspherical (IF) vs the SIGMA AF 20mm f/1.8 DG EX RF Aspherical is one I actually would not any have difficulty with.

    After some initial images ... I am happy to report that the 17-50mm f/2.8 turns in a darn good performance against the SIGMA PRIME. This is quite cool in respect to the fact that we are talking about a relatively inexpensive zoom ... and a pricey little prime.

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    100% crop
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    All I can positively say is that if you have a TAMRON 17-50mm f/2.8 ... you are as close as you are going to get to having one of these prime lenses with a reasonably priced zoom. The added expense will lie in using the f/1.8 (1 & 1/3 f-stop wider) capability for low light, reducing noise and speeding up your shutter speed ... and use on a Full Frame camera (which the 17-50mm f/2.8 DI-II cannot do outside of CROP mode).

    After these initial tests, I would not feel any real need to rush out and get a prime in this range. On the APS-C sensor, the 17-50mm f/2.8 is a tremendous bang for the buck.

    Also, you probably should bear in mind that the SIGMA UWA (10-20mm f/4-5.6 DC EX) @ 20mm is stuck at f/5.6, while the TAMRON SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II LD Aspherical (IF) allows for a very sharp and usable f/2.8 aperture. It is for these reasons, now borne out, that the TAMRON has always been the "number one" lens in my bag.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 06-03-2009 at 09:12 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    602
    Don,

    There's some clear softening in the Tamron zoom, but not bad when you consider you're getting the added benefit of the zoom capability and at a lower price.
    Darin Wessel
    α 900
    Zooms: Tamron SP AF70-200mm f2.8 Di LD Macro; Sigma 28-90mm D macro, Konica-Minolta 18-70 f3.5-5.6
    Primes: Minolta 28mm f2.8; Sony 50mm f1.4
    Minolta RC-1000 remote commander

    Film:
    Calumet Cambo CC400 4x5 View Camera
    YashikaMat 6x6 TLR (other accessories)
    Minolta Maxxum 7000 w/ Minolta 35-80mm f/4-5.6 & Minolta 2800 flash
    Minolta Maxxum 5000i & Vivitar 728 AFM flash
    What's next???

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