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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Florence Alabama
    Posts
    17

    lense/ body compatability issue

    I'm shotting an alpha 350. I've recently come into a lot of md and mc mount lenses and had to buy a converter ring so that the hardware would fit together. The problem is that the camera doesn't sense when a lense is attached to it and therefore locks the shutter, the end result being, obviously, that I can't soot. Is there some way, any way, possible that I can override the software in my camera body that locks the shutter in the response to the "no lense attached" sensation that it perceives?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554

    Cool Dealing with manual (MC/MD/Adapatall) lenses on the 300 series

    According to what I understand (pg 161 of the Owner's Manual),

    The message reads:

    "No lens attached. Shutter is locked."

    The manual (page 161) says:

    The lens is not attached properly, or the lens is not attached. When attaching the camera to an astronomical telescope or something similar, set the recording mode to M.

    You will have to place the A350 camera in the "M" mode ... forcing it to all manual settings. You then shoot to see what kind of exposure you have ... and adjust your ISO and Shutter speed in the camera ... and the aperture setting on the lens itself, as you would with the lens mounted on an X700 or XG-series.

    Good luck and let us know what happens ...
    Last edited by DonSchap; 05-21-2009 at 02:26 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    Yup, gotta shoot full M, manual. Use the EV scale in the VF or LV to meter correctly. Enjoy your collection!
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,758
    Beware..make sure the apperature arm has clearance behind the mount...most are machined so bad they rub,or don't even let it move

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Monmouthshire, UK
    Posts
    2,152
    Which converter ring did you buy?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Florence Alabama
    Posts
    17
    Thank you guys SO much. As to which converter ring: it was a two-piece, no name, Chinese ebay deal. I wish now that I would have done something a bit more legit because It's kinda of becoming more of a headache than it really needs to be. But hey, that's the only way to learn for some folks right?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    We want to know what it converts to the Sony a mount! Rokkor, M42, or something else?
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554

    Cool Non-specific mount lenses

    My stint with amorphous lenses is ... forget about it.

    I have four significantly advanced design lenses that TAMRON released for use on ALL common manufactured mounts (with adapter) ... and the trouble I have to go to making use of them is simply not in my best interest. When you are composing on the run ... time can be of the essence. As such, having that autofocus and built-in metering control can save you a lot of time in calculation of a shot.

    No matter how I do it, unless I am in a studio environment, where things are methodical and not usually time-sensitive ... make mine AF lenses.

    Also, I should add ... if you are straddling more than one manufacturer's camera ... these lenses can be really money savers and true band-aids, until you settle in to a specific manufacturer. Then, dear friends, just swallow hard and buy the truly supportive glass for that manufacturer's mount and take advantage of COMPATIBLY DESIGNED GLASS.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 05-26-2009 at 02:07 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Florence Alabama
    Posts
    17
    Oh, sorry. They are older Minolta mc and md mounts to fit my ma mount Minolta 3000 and Sony A350.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Monmouthshire, UK
    Posts
    2,152
    You could have purchased the James Lao adapter.
    This transmits focal length and aperture data to the camera which means the anti shake works properly.

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