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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    60

    What does IQ means?

    When I heard you guys saying "this lens has better IQ", I know that I means it has better stats. What makes a good IQ? or what do I look for in spec of a lens to see the IQ?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    456
    IQ stands for Image Quality. I'm not gonna even pretend I know the technical aspects involved but bokeh, sharpness, clarity all play a role.
    D700(gone), D90(gone), D40x
    80-200 f/2.8D(gone), 50 f/1.4G, 100 f/2.8 Series E, 18-55 kitty
    SB900(gone), SB24, Sunpak 383(dead), fired with Paul C Buff triggers

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Sacramento CA
    Posts
    133
    Ken.. good question.. i should have asked when i first started out..


    So many abbreviations, us newbs get lost.

    The hardest ones Ive tried to figure out were CA and PP.

    Just like in high school i just pretended to know what they were talking about to be cool.

    Takes a lot to be part of DCRP crew.
    Dtrecenti

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    60
    Quote Originally Posted by nsjuice View Post
    Ken.. good question.. i should have asked when i first started out..


    So many abbreviations, us newbs get lost.

    The hardest ones Ive tried to figure out were CA and PP.

    Just like in high school i just pretended to know what they were talking about to be cool.

    Takes a lot to be part of DCRP crew.
    haha, what is CA and PP? I am totally a newbie in the DSLR stuff.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    2,929
    Quote Originally Posted by KenRC51 View Post
    When I heard you guys saying "this lens has better IQ", I know that I means it has better stats. What makes a good IQ? or what do I look for in spec of a lens to see the IQ?
    I dont bother with specs or stats, I judge a lens on its real world use and actual pictures. I dont trust "lab tests" and specs.

    If youre lookin at new lenses, take a look at real world sample images, or rent it before you buy. There are plenty of online places to rent from.

    Nothing worse than reading a lens has good specs and you get it home and it sucks ass.
    Jason

    "A coward dies a thousand deaths, a soldier dies but once."-2Pac


    A bunch of Nikon stuff!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    4,419
    Quote Originally Posted by jcon View Post
    I dont bother with specs or stats, I judge a lens on its real world use and actual pictures. I dont trust "lab tests" and specs.

    If youre lookin at new lenses, take a look at real world sample images, or rent it before you buy. There are plenty of online places to rent from.
    .....
    I agree with jcon that you don't judge a lens from lab tests. They should be used as a guide to see the lens potential. Owners' opinions can be very biased so beware of that too. Where I am it's hard to rent a lens and very expensive so I have to pay some attention to those 'lab tests' - no other choice.

    Quote Originally Posted by jcon View Post
    ....
    Nothing worse than reading a lens has good specs and you get it home and it sucks ass.
    I know how that feels. Recently I spent $975 on a lens but unfortunately got a bad copy; so not easy when buying a lens you might get a lemon. Make sure you don't damage or scratch it because if that happens you can't get exchange or refund.
    Nikon D90, D80
    Nikkor 16-85mm AF-S DX F/3.5-5.6G ED VR, Tamron SP AF 28-75mm F/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF) macro, Nikkor 50mm F/1.4D, Nikkor 50mm F/1.8D, Nikkor AF-S VR 70-300mm F/4.5-5.6G IF-ED, Sigma 105mm F/2.8 EX DG Macro ||| 2x SB800 | SB600 ||| Manfrotto 190XB

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Atlanta, Georgia
    Posts
    3,650
    pbase is one of my favorite places to gage image quality.
    I thought about who I am... and realized I was an
    unformed, unreconciled imagery, without "GOD"


    NikonD?
    and some other Nikon stuff

    0.0%

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    4,419
    CA = chromatic aberation, PP = purple fringe.... they are the same things. It's where the highlight meets the dark area and you see purple bands.
    Nikon D90, D80
    Nikkor 16-85mm AF-S DX F/3.5-5.6G ED VR, Tamron SP AF 28-75mm F/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF) macro, Nikkor 50mm F/1.4D, Nikkor 50mm F/1.8D, Nikkor AF-S VR 70-300mm F/4.5-5.6G IF-ED, Sigma 105mm F/2.8 EX DG Macro ||| 2x SB800 | SB600 ||| Manfrotto 190XB

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    60
    Quote Originally Posted by tim11 View Post
    CA = chromatic aberation, PP = purple fringe.... they are the same things. It's where the highlight meets the dark area and you see purple bands.
    What does it do and why is it important? How do you test for this? Sorry or so many questions. I find that people in the forum are really quick in response and friendly

    Btw, this tamron 17-50 f/2.8 is my second copy. My first and second copy was bought from Samy Camera. The first copy I think I got a displayed copy (the salesmen told me it was new). I looked new but have a few finger print on the front and back of the lens. Also the lens hood did not fit, it was a lens hood for another lens. I was not happy with this, so I took it back to Samy Camera for a exchange. The customer services was good, they exchanged it with no hassle and questions asked.

    Once I got the second copy of the lens I tried it on my D90 and found out that the second lens (the new one) focus a lot quicker and a little bit more quitter. I do some times wonder if I still have a bad copy. How do I test my lens to see if it is a bad copy? Since I am a newbie I do not know what to look for and know something is wrong by look at the pic or the sound of the lens. Can some of you more experienced photographer tell me how? thanks

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    6,892
    CA generally shows up as a purple edge between areas where there is a big difference in contrast. The edge of a branch against the sky is one example where it often shows.

    Good lens show no or almost no CA. Bad lens show lots of CA and ordinary lens show CA under certain circumstances that can always be recreated (same f stop and subject for example)

    The good news is that most modern post processing software has controls to remove or at least minimise CA. Also newer cameras such as the D300 (not sure about the D90) also automatically handle CA and remove it as they they are processing the image so you no longer see it as often in your shots.

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