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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    I did a search just thought I would have Don add it.
    Thanks

    Frankk
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560
    'Tis been added and thanks to you, Frank.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,760
    figured i'd stick this here..

    A common rule of thumb for estimating how fast the exposure needs to be for a given focal length is the one over focal length rule. This states that for a 35 mm camera, the exposure time needs to be at least as fast as one over the focal length in seconds. In other words, when using a 200 mm focal length on a 35 mm camera, the exposure time needs to be at least 1/200 seconds-- otherwise blurring may be hard to avoid. Keep in mind that this rule is just for rough guidance; some may be able to hand hold a shot for much longer or shorter times than this rule estimates. For users of digital cameras with cropped sensors, one needs to convert into a 35 mm equivalent focal length.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560

    The entire SONY DSLR line-up (since 2006)

    NEX3 - Live View APS-C 14.2MP CMOS HD Video (7 fps) w/ LA-EA1 A-to-E mount adapter
    NEX5 - Live View APS-C 14.2MP CMOS HD Video (7 fps) w/ LA-EA1 A-to-E mount adapter

    SLT-α33 - EVF APS-C 14.2MP CMOS LiveView HD Video (7fps)
    SLT-α55V - EVF APS-C 16.2MP CMOS LiveView HD Video GPS (10fps)

    α100 - OVF APS-C 10.2MP CCD (~3 fps)
    α200 - OVF APS-C 10.2MP CCD (~2.5 fps)
    α230 - OVF APS-C 10.2MP CCD (~2.5 fps)
    α290 - OVF APS-C 14.2MP CCD (~2.5 fps)
    α300 - OVF APS-C 10.2MP CCD LiveView (~2.5 fps)
    α330 - OVF APS-C 10.2MP CCD LiveView (~2.5 fps)
    α350 - OVF APS-C 14.2MP CCD LiveView (~2.5 fps)
    α380 - OVF APS-C 14.2MP CCD LiveView (~2.5 fps)
    α390 - OVF APS-C 14.2MP CCD LiveView (~2.5 fps)
    α450 (Non-USA RELEASE) - OVF APS-C CCD
    α500 - OVF APS-C 12.3MP CMOS LiveView (5 fps)
    α550 - OVF APS-C 14.2MP CMOS LiveView (5 fps AF/7 fps MF)
    α560 - OVF APS-C 14.2MP CMOS LiveView HD Video (7 fps)
    α580 - OVF APS-C 16.2MP CMOS LiveView HD Video (7 fps)
    α700 - OVF APS-C 12.2MP CMOS (5 fps)
    α850 - OVF FF 24.6MP CMOS (3 fps)
    α900 - OVF FF 24.6MP CMOS (5 fps)

    Also, capable of using the A-mount lenses, the NEX-VG10 interchangeable lens Handycam w/ LA-EA1 A-to-E mount adapter
    Last edited by DonSchap; 08-26-2010 at 08:33 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

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