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Thread: Noise Ninja

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    Quote Originally Posted by sparkie1263 View Post
    It is amazing how much of a drop off a lens can have. It should not even let you shoot at f/22. Where did you find this chart? I would like to see where I should be with my Tamaron 70-300. Or should I be afraid to ask. LOL Thanks for the eye opener Rooz.

    Frank
    It is quite an eye opener indeed

    photozone.de
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    It isn't as bad as I though it would be. f/8 is the best place to be. That is where I start most of my shots.

    Thanks

    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    92
    Yes it does, and then throw the extension tube on it as well.

    I was just playing around with the two of them on that day. The original shot is also with both camera nr turned off. NN will take out everything, but then what do you have left. It is a balancing act to try and get as much noise out as you can and still not overdue it. The contrast adjust alone can make or break it. Anyway, I will probably use it on my high ISO shots and do normal pp on the lower ISO.

    Just something else to play with.

    Dave

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    What tubes do you use btw? The Kenko AF ones found on ebay?
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    92
    yes, I have a set of 3. The 36mm, 20mm and 12mm.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    God's Country - Australia
    Posts
    10,424
    dave, the only way to get the flower fully in focus is to focus stack it, use strobes or move further away. i found the tammie pretty much useless after around f11 if you wanted to preserve fine detail. something like a 50mm macro will serve you better in this sort of thing.
    D800e l V3 l AW1 l 16-35 l 35 l 50 l 85 l 105 l EM1 l 7.5 l 12-40 l 14 l 17 l 25 l 45 l 60 l 75
    flickr

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    92
    Thanks for the tips Rooz. Like I said the first day I was playing around with some things. Here is one I took the next day, no tubes just lens within reasonable fstops. Still, not everything was perfect. We have had this wind for a couple of weeks now. So I needed a faster ss to negate the movement from the wind. These do not last long, I get what I can and if they aren't what we actually want, hopefully they will bloom again next year. The second is a photo of another type of calipogon taken last year.

    A700 w/Tamron 90mm
    ISO:500
    SS:1/1250
    f9
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    God's Country - Australia
    Posts
    10,424
    Quote Originally Posted by dbatapbr View Post
    We have had this wind for a couple of weeks now.
    ahhhkkkk...wind...its the bloody worst thing possible for macro.
    D800e l V3 l AW1 l 16-35 l 35 l 50 l 85 l 105 l EM1 l 7.5 l 12-40 l 14 l 17 l 25 l 45 l 60 l 75
    flickr

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