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Thread: Hello all

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554
    Mark ... do me a favor and put the camera in Manual Mode for your settings.

    Use the the following settings with your current flash, just for a test:

    Aperture: f/5.6
    Shutter Speed: 125
    ISO: 100

    Subject distance ... 5 to 8 feet away

    Give that a shot and see if it is still "washed out" Believe me, I know about older flashes ... LOL Just look at the image in my Signature for the "Gear List"
    Last edited by DonSchap; 01-16-2009 at 10:04 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ohio, USA.
    Posts
    1,161
    Don I would be interested , we could go either way, I could mail you mine if you want to side by side them as you have much more of a background in conducting studies, tests etc. or if you will help set me up i will do it just need a bit of direction and guidence
    Sony A700_____________Minolta AF 50mm. F/1.7
    Minolta AF 70-210mm F/3.5-4.5 Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR DiII LD Asp. [IF]
    Tamron SP AF 70-200mm. F/2.8 DI LD [IF] Macro
    Tamron AF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 1:2
    Tokina AF 28-70mm F/3.5-4.5
    Tokina AF AT-X 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6
    http://flickr.com/

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554
    Well ... your point is well taken ... it does take a little time. Okay ... I'll email my address and please send it on. I'll shoot it up the next week and get it posted. I just can't see dumping another $150 for a lens I would probably never use, again. When I want a clean 300mm shot, I go with the TAMRON SP AF 200-500mm f/5-6.3 Di LD. It actually shoots brighter at 300mm than my AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 LD (non-Di) does. You have already witnessed the clarity it provides. Man, I love that lens! So much so, I bought it a brand new lens case (LowePro LC5) to ride around in.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 01-16-2009 at 10:18 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ohio, USA.
    Posts
    1,161
    As I have said before though for $150.00 and for the focal length you really can't get a better lens. it's not 'outstanding' the colors aren't amazing but it a nice handy lens that works very well. I don't think I will ever get rid of mine, and the tamron 6 year warranty! this spring the 200 - 500 will be mine.
    Sony A700_____________Minolta AF 50mm. F/1.7
    Minolta AF 70-210mm F/3.5-4.5 Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR DiII LD Asp. [IF]
    Tamron SP AF 70-200mm. F/2.8 DI LD [IF] Macro
    Tamron AF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 1:2
    Tokina AF 28-70mm F/3.5-4.5
    Tokina AF AT-X 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6
    http://flickr.com/

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Raleigh, NC, USA
    Posts
    788
    I'm planning to sell the SAL 75-300 for the Tamron soon, I just haven't gotten around to it. Seems like a somewhat better lens for the same amount I could proba my sell the Sony for.

    I had a busy day yesterday and hadn't replied to this yet, but welcome! It's a great place to learn. I'd also strongly advise picking up a 50mm prime in addition to the Tamron 17-50mm, it will work with even less light, be sharper in the same light, and teach you a lot about shooting because of the inability to zoom. You see things in a different way. I really think the two mentioned Tamrons and the 50mm prime make for a heck of a cheap kit. After that you can throw in a good quality minolta zoom in the portrait range to fill that gap.
    Last edited by laydros; 01-17-2009 at 07:36 AM.
    Jason Hamilton
    Selective Frame

    EOS 5D - Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF 35 f/2, EF 50mm f/1.8 Mk II, EF 70-210 f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF 85mm f/1.8 USM, EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro, Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 (with EOS adapter), 430EX, Canon S90
    Nikon FE - Nikkor 35mm f/2 AI'd, Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AI, Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 AI, F to EF adapter, 2xVivitar 285, other lighting stuff
    Mamiya C220 - 80mm f/2.8

    Gear List flickr

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554

    Red face Flashier issues

    Quote Originally Posted by MarkEinarson View Post
    I am having the most problems with indoor shots such as kids birthdays (too dark). Unfortunatly my Minolta flash is a litte too old so it will only fire and full power washing everything out. Going to go take a course in the next month or so to try and learn some more about the processing side of things.
    Mark,

    I do not know if you had a chance to try out the settings, but there is a lot to be said for getting your hands on a HVL-F36AM flash, if possible. Better yet, a HVL-F42AM. These are relatively low end units, so do not expect miracles out of them ... but, what they will provide it a step into "the system."

    Having a SONY brand flash allows you to use ALL of the tools the camera/flash combo can provide. Coordination is easier ... TTL seems to work better. When dealing with flash, the less complications ... well, the better.

    Using a flash at FULL power really kills the batteries on the unit in rapid fashion, so carry a few extra (I have 16 total, between two flash units). I highly recommend the most powerful "rechargeables" (>2800 mA/H) you can get. That will at least give you some duration between change outs.

    A good idea is to simply go to the SONY Style store and compare your existing flash against the newer SONY unit. See how you camera responds by making minimal changes to it. As much as I like to avoid using "AUTO", for this test ... I highly recommend it. Let the camera and the coordinated flash make some decisions and just see what the results are. Remember to take one of your "lil' subjects" with you, so you have a real target of your photography available for your test.

    No one is twisting your arm into buying anything ... but, I do feel the real test is worth your time, for whatever decision you make, because ... knowledge is power.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Vancouver BC
    Posts
    6
    Don, I am out on the West Coast so I was sleeping for part of the chat here. I will try out a few shots this moring. Any suggestions on the size of an image to up load? For referance the flash is a 2000xi.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    Quote Originally Posted by seanhoxx View Post
    Don't worry Mark I post plenty of crappy shots! and keep coming back. in about a year of posting and a couple of months of lurking I can't even tell you how much I have learned here. Don is THE man, and the major tech guy. Sparkie also known as frank can show us a thing or 2 about wildlife shots, and is always working on something in PP or HDR. dr4gon has a good eye, and is doing lots with the flash and bokeh! I take lots of bad pics of high school sports. Rooz has a wide knowledge base, and several others here post often and bring up good points and questions, so again welcome!
    I appreciate it. I never knew bokeh like I do now until I started browsing flickr.

    Quote Originally Posted by laydros View Post
    I'm planning to sell the SAL 75-300 for the Tamron soon, I just haven't gotten around to it. Seems like a somewhat better lens for the same amount I could proba my sell the Sony for.

    I had a busy day yesterday and hadn't replied to this yet, but welcome! It's a great place to learn. I'd also strongly advise picking up a 50mm prime in addition to the Tamron 17-50mm, it will work with even less light, be sharper in the same light, and teach you a lot about shooting because of the inability to zoom. You see things in a different way. I really think the two mentioned Tamrons and the 50mm prime make for a heck of a cheap kit. After that you can throw in a good quality minolta zoom in the portrait range to fill that gap.
    Let me know when that might be. I think I may want to sell my Tamron 70-300mm Di F/4-5.6 if you are interested.
    Last edited by dr4gon; 01-17-2009 at 09:24 AM.
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    Quote Originally Posted by MarkEinarson View Post
    Don, I am out on the West Coast so I was sleeping for part of the chat here. I will try out a few shots this moring. Any suggestions on the size of an image to up load? For referance the flash is a 2000xi.
    If you want something medium. Make the long edge ~640ish

    Something a little larger ~800

    If you want something large, but not like outrageously large ~1024px at the largest edge should be fine.

    I wouldn't post anything larger unless you linked it.
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX
    Posts
    130
    I don't mean to steal the thread, but regarding flashes, will the old Minolta flashes work on the Sonys?
    Nikon D40x
    - Nikkor ED 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 II

    Give me feedback on Flickr

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