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View Poll Results: What is your current post process pixel manipulation software?

Voters
16. You may not vote on this poll
  • Lightroom (ver 1 or 2)

    8 50.00%
  • Photoshop Elements

    5 31.25%
  • Photoshop CS

    8 50.00%
  • SONY Image Data Suite

    6 37.50%
  • Other -> Please elaborate by posting answer

    4 25.00%
  • None … just what comes out of the end of my USB Cable/Memory card

    0 0%
  • What’s post process? Or better yet … a pixel?

    0 0%
Multiple Choice Poll.
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Results 11 to 20 of 24
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Indiana, USA
    Posts
    52
    I use CS3 but try to do as little as possible.
    Sony α900
    Zeiss 16-35mm f/2.8, Zeiss 24-70mm f/2.8, Sony 70-200 F/2.8 G, Sony 100mm F/2.8 Macro

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Raleigh, NC, USA
    Posts
    788
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom F View Post
    I use CS3 but try to do as little as possible.
    I kinda feel the same way. I shoot in RAW to rescue stuff like forgetting to switch the white balance setting, but I've generally tried to shoot the picture with the camera I want to show off on flickr. Perhaps this is holding me back from better images, but I hope it's helping me become a better photographer. If there is a spare sign or powerline in the frame that I would prefer wasn't there, I either need to find a different viewpoint, or accept it as part of what is naturally there.

    I do like to saturate my colors a little, and I can be pretty serious with a crop, but even that is typically just because my lens didn't have the needed reach when I shot the picture.
    Jason Hamilton
    Selective Frame

    EOS 5D - Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF 35 f/2, EF 50mm f/1.8 Mk II, EF 70-210 f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF 85mm f/1.8 USM, EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro, Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 (with EOS adapter), 430EX, Canon S90
    Nikon FE - Nikkor 35mm f/2 AI'd, Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AI, Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 AI, F to EF adapter, 2xVivitar 285, other lighting stuff
    Mamiya C220 - 80mm f/2.8

    Gear List flickr

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554
    You know ... that's just the "lazy" talking.

    If you have obstructions in your images ... work them out. Just leaving "things" in makes for a distracting shot and do not allude to that "professional look" or attest to your "talent" or skill ... which you have, now, purposely elected to present as dubious.

    In film shooting, some of this was acceptable ... because "real" darkroom work was a hell of a lot harder and still is. That has not changed. But, with the advent of pixel manipulation and the "daylight darkroom", you no longer have that excuse.

    I sincerely suggest that you hone your cloning and masking skills to work up your shots to the level they need to be at, to compete with others presenting their work. If you are not going to do this ... do not be surprised when (many) someone's point the bony finger of criticism and say, "Hey dude, what about that sign, lamp post, wire ... or other silly distraction?" instead of what they should be saying ... "Man, that was a hell of a shot!"

    Your accepted "job" as photographer - when you pulled that shutter - is to get your shot to as good a representation of the frame as you can ... lighting, angle and what have you. The next part of your "job" is "DEVELOPING" that image into the real deal. Chopping that latter part off is rather amateurish and not really acceptable, as people now know better. Useless you relegate yourself to "snap-shooting" ... which is what you describe, you are setting yourself up for a lot of heat if you present yourself as someone other than "a guy with an expensive camera."

    C'mon Jason, get with ... the program. You know the drill. Besides, editing has never been so easy.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 01-13-2009 at 09:55 AM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr® & Sdi

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Charleston, S.C.
    Posts
    58
    For the Sony Cameras and film scans from Minolta (Nikon Coolscan) I use PhotoShop almost exclusively with the exception of some Noise Ninja with Sony. I think Ninja does a hair better with the Sony cameras.

    For Leica M8 I prefer to use Phase One/Capture One Pro. I think it creates a very unique look with files out of the Leica almost nostalgic and reminiscence of the original Leica film cameras. Noise above 400: just pretend it’s a pre World War II photo. Nothing helps in low light short of buying the F/0.95 lens!

    For the Hasselblad H System and (film drum scans from Hasselblad) I use Phocus because I think it does the best job with the high-resolution files that come out of these cameras. Because I tend to do a lot of low key lighting effects with portraiture, I start files in Phocus and finish them in PhotoShop.

    I think the software I use the most would have to be PhotoShop. For me it is slightly better in the form of versatile than most of them.
    A.J.

    Hey this looks dangerous.......You go first!

    If at first you don't succeed, Skydiving is not for you!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Indiana, USA
    Posts
    52
    When I say I do as little as possible I'm not saying I won't clone out objects or make other adjustments if needed. I just try not to over do it. Here's example of mine that need a lot of cloning. I know the composition isn't that great but I think I improved the image.

    Started with this.


    Went to this.
    Sony α900
    Zeiss 16-35mm f/2.8, Zeiss 24-70mm f/2.8, Sony 70-200 F/2.8 G, Sony 100mm F/2.8 Macro

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554
    Well, I would like to see a bit more of the car, personally, since it really is the subject.

    Name:  LT2.jpg
Views: 62
Size:  269.5 KB

    Using Photoshop Lightroom 2's "creative brush" (with exposure 1.8)
    Last edited by DonSchap; 01-13-2009 at 09:32 AM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr® & Sdi

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Raleigh, NC, USA
    Posts
    788
    .....ok, got it
    Jason Hamilton
    Selective Frame

    EOS 5D - Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF 35 f/2, EF 50mm f/1.8 Mk II, EF 70-210 f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF 85mm f/1.8 USM, EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro, Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 (with EOS adapter), 430EX, Canon S90
    Nikon FE - Nikkor 35mm f/2 AI'd, Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AI, Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 AI, F to EF adapter, 2xVivitar 285, other lighting stuff
    Mamiya C220 - 80mm f/2.8

    Gear List flickr

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ohio, USA.
    Posts
    1,161
    Wow what a difference, thats really neat.
    Sony A700_____________Minolta AF 50mm. F/1.7
    Minolta AF 70-210mm F/3.5-4.5 Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR DiII LD Asp. [IF]
    Tamron SP AF 70-200mm. F/2.8 DI LD [IF] Macro
    Tamron AF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 1:2
    Tokina AF 28-70mm F/3.5-4.5
    Tokina AF AT-X 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6
    http://flickr.com/

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554
    Anyone else picked up some nifty editing software?
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr® & Sdi

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    85
    I sometimes use Canon's Zoom Browser/Edit software, which came with a previous camera before I got the Sony, and was already used to using for some chores. It does some things pretty quickly if extensive PS work isn't needed.

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