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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    2,562

    This Sounds Interesting

    I just read this on another site. It was posted by Stef.


    BTW I am at the moment trying out different raw converters and different methods to shoot with high ISO. I am not finished yet but what I have found out so far and it needs more testing tomorrow is quite interesting: Instead of using higher ISO just stick to lower ISO i.e. 400 and rescue the underexposed image in the RAW converter. This works very well for the A700 as well as for the A900. What I mean by this is: check your exposure (f stop and exposure time) when shooting at i.e. ISO 3200. Switch your camera to manual; use the same exposure time and f stop as if shooting with ISO3200 BUT switch to ISO400. Open the images in the RAW converter and adjust the exposure. The interesting fact is that you can actually rescue the image and have LESS noise than with ISO3200. What I will try over the next couple of days is what happens when you just completely ignore your underexposure. This would mean in real life: you have a certain lens/camera combination and you use manual exposure mode. Just put in the slowest exposure time you can get away with in your particular situation and the widest f stop you need/want and just shoot away. Then later on rescue your images in ACR/Capture One/ Rawtherapee/ Bible... so far the results are promising! More later.
    Stef.
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
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    9,560
    Well, that's a Software solution worth a look. ISO setting in the camera is the hardware solution. If this is doable, it could shift the way we shoot quite bit. Maybe the lens selection could change, too.

    I'll stay tuned. If it is too good to be true, it's probably a SONY.

    Thanks for the heads up, Frank!
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Raleigh, NC, USA
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    788
    I've basically given up on anything higher that ISO 400 on my a300, but I know if I underespose a little I can play with the exposure and fill light controls in lightroom to generate a much less underexposed image. Way less noise than ISO 1600.
    Jason Hamilton
    Selective Frame

    EOS 5D - Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF 35 f/2, EF 50mm f/1.8 Mk II, EF 70-210 f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF 85mm f/1.8 USM, EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro, Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 (with EOS adapter), 430EX, Canon S90
    Nikon FE - Nikkor 35mm f/2 AI'd, Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AI, Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 AI, F to EF adapter, 2xVivitar 285, other lighting stuff
    Mamiya C220 - 80mm f/2.8

    Gear List flickr

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Guelph, Ontario
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    the a300 does pretty well at iso800 compared to the a350.
    Canon EOS 7D

    flickr
    FLUIDR

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    With some moderate noise reduction 800 looks phenomenal on the A300!

    1600ISO ain't too bad either.
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Raleigh, NC, USA
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    788
    Quote Originally Posted by Elisha82 View Post
    the a300 does pretty well at iso800 compared to the a350.
    Quote Originally Posted by dr4gon View Post
    With some moderate noise reduction 800 looks phenomenal on the A300!

    1600ISO ain't too bad either.
    OK, maybe I can try to be a little more bold. I've just been using the built in camera noise reduction and the noise reduction in aperture, any other recommendations?
    Jason Hamilton
    Selective Frame

    EOS 5D - Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF 35 f/2, EF 50mm f/1.8 Mk II, EF 70-210 f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF 85mm f/1.8 USM, EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro, Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 (with EOS adapter), 430EX, Canon S90
    Nikon FE - Nikkor 35mm f/2 AI'd, Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AI, Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 AI, F to EF adapter, 2xVivitar 285, other lighting stuff
    Mamiya C220 - 80mm f/2.8

    Gear List flickr

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Guelph, Ontario
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    1,903
    remember in order for the built in high ISO NR to work, you need the drive mode set to single shot and not continous. And if shooting in dim light, experiment with the DRO settings. DRO+ can sometimes cause unwanted noise in shadows.
    Canon EOS 7D

    flickr
    FLUIDR

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    2,204
    Quote Originally Posted by laydros View Post
    OK, maybe I can try to be a little more bold. I've just been using the built in camera noise reduction and the noise reduction in aperture, any other recommendations?
    That's what I did, same thing just in Lightroom instead of Aperture. Sometimes I feel the need to run it through photoshop and see what I can do, but that's really for the higher ISOs. Lightroom actually does a decent job. Does smudge some detail, but if you're uploading for the web, it's not noticeable.

    Quote Originally Posted by Elisha82 View Post
    remember in order for the built in high ISO NR to work, you need the drive mode set to single shot and not continous. And if shooting in dim light, experiment with the DRO settings. DRO+ can sometimes cause unwanted noise in shadows.
    True, only in JPEG or JPEG+RAW (applied to jpegs of course)
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Raleigh, NC, USA
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    788
    Quote Originally Posted by dr4gon View Post
    That's what I did, same thing just in Lightroom instead of Aperture. Sometimes I feel the need to run it through photoshop and see what I can do, but that's really for the higher ISOs. Lightroom actually does a decent job. Does smudge some detail, but if you're uploading for the web, it's not noticeable.



    True, only in JPEG or JPEG+RAW (applied to jpegs of course)
    And I meant Lightroom anyway. No sleep makes Jason confused.

    I actually downloaded the Aperture trial, but haven't even loaded pics in it.
    Jason Hamilton
    Selective Frame

    EOS 5D - Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF 35 f/2, EF 50mm f/1.8 Mk II, EF 70-210 f/3.5-4.5 USM, EF 85mm f/1.8 USM, EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro, Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 (with EOS adapter), 430EX, Canon S90
    Nikon FE - Nikkor 35mm f/2 AI'd, Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AI, Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 AI, F to EF adapter, 2xVivitar 285, other lighting stuff
    Mamiya C220 - 80mm f/2.8

    Gear List flickr

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560
    Hey Jason ... is there anyway you can make it down to the SONY Style store ... and shoot an A700 side-by-side with your camera? You know, same lens ... ISO 1600 and all. It may just solve ALL your noise issues. Remember, the camera body is your "film." Just a little more investment could save you a lot of time ... and effort.

    By the way, do you really use that LiveView feature?
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

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