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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ohio, USA.
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    A few noisy sports shots

    A few from high school wrestling and girls basketball from this week. getting the low light high ISO settings about where I like it.
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    Sony A700_____________Minolta AF 50mm. F/1.7
    Minolta AF 70-210mm F/3.5-4.5 Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR DiII LD Asp. [IF]
    Tamron SP AF 70-200mm. F/2.8 DI LD [IF] Macro
    Tamron AF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 1:2
    Tokina AF 28-70mm F/3.5-4.5
    Tokina AF AT-X 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6
    http://flickr.com/

  2. #2
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    In a couple, the Center of Focus (COF) seems off ... but, coupled with WIDE APERTURE ... the shallow DOF is killing these. You need to be at f/4 or better for a cleaner shot, otherwise, back up! LOL The second shot, the center of focus seems to be between the guys legs, on the big red stripe behind him.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 12-20-2008 at 10:48 AM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  3. #3
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    I know I know, I'm still working on getting the light and the white balance squared up, along with trying to 'frame' decent shots. here's some basketball shota from a different perspective, I sat all the way up against the back wall and shot down, still f/2.8 though:
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    Sony A700_____________Minolta AF 50mm. F/1.7
    Minolta AF 70-210mm F/3.5-4.5 Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR DiII LD Asp. [IF]
    Tamron SP AF 70-200mm. F/2.8 DI LD [IF] Macro
    Tamron AF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 1:2
    Tokina AF 28-70mm F/3.5-4.5
    Tokina AF AT-X 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6
    http://flickr.com/

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonSchap View Post
    In a couple, the Center of Focus (COF) seems off ... but, coupled with WIDE APERTURE ... the shallow DOF is killing these. You need to be at f/4 or better for a cleaner shot, otherwise, back up! LOL The second shot, the center of focus seems to be between the guys legs, on the big red stripe behind him.
    Don, you may not have been clear enough with this explanation, although I could be maligning Sean.

    DOF is determined by the subject distance, the lens focal length, and the lens f-number (relative aperture). Except at close-up distances, DOF is approximately determined by the subject magnification and the lens f-number. Decreasing subject magnification increases DOF. So by stepping back you increase DOF, but you will defeat the object if you then zoom in to keep the subject larger in the frame.

    I'm being pedantic, I know, and I'm sorry if I'm underestimating individual expertise. I just thought we should be clear.

    I know I've said this before, but sometimes the only way to get a good shot is to stop down to say f5.6, use a support (monopod, beanie bag ...), prefocus on an area (centre circle, basket semicircle..don't know what you call it) and wait for the action to come to you. This may introduce motion blur but that can be acceptable in sports photography.

  5. #5
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    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ohio, USA.
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    Always seeking, and needing advice and direction! Don for wrestling I can stand about 20 - 25 feet from the center of the mat, of course I can also move farther away, and go up and shot down. I was thinking for next home meet of trying the Tamron 17-50mm instead of the 70-200, any thoughts on that? Close the Aperture to 3.5 or 4 also?
    Sony A700_____________Minolta AF 50mm. F/1.7
    Minolta AF 70-210mm F/3.5-4.5 Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR DiII LD Asp. [IF]
    Tamron SP AF 70-200mm. F/2.8 DI LD [IF] Macro
    Tamron AF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 1:2
    Tokina AF 28-70mm F/3.5-4.5
    Tokina AF AT-X 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6
    http://flickr.com/

  6. #6
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    2,562
    I think you did good. Gym lightning is hard to control.

    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  7. #7
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    Feb 2006
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    Obviously, the farther you are away at the wider apertures, the better. Then the subject "group" is more in focus. It is a hell of a game we play to claim all the light we can.

    I was discussing these very lighting issues with the lady ... and pointing out some of the challenges we face using lenses limited to f/2.8 ... having a mere 1/16th of the available light from the front of the lens' first element finally to the sensor. I am amazed we can do anything at all with such levels.

    I shot an aperture demo in another thread ... showing how the light and DOF changes as we close down from f/1.4 to f/8. It reminded me of how important noise controol is with ISO-1600 and 3200, to be able to get a decent shutter speed for action shots. With sports, things change fast. Usually a lot faster than we can alter out camera settings. You may be able to flop back and forth between 1/125 and 1/500 ... but, the last thing you want to be worrying about is aperture. Lock at f/2.8 and pray everyone plays tight. LOL
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Australia
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    Gym lighting is the devil...

    you did well
    Quote Originally Posted by Rooz View Post
    hands up who hates delobbo !!!!!!
    DeviantArt Gallery

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    Canon 450D + Twin Kit Lens + 50mm 1.4
    It doesn't have to be awkward Will

  9. #9
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    Question An alternative

    Also, you can reduce the color noise appearance and shoot higher-ISO by using B&W in your shots. Just a thought from the peanut-gallery.

    Here's a quick sample of the difference:

    ISO-6400 AdobeRGB
    Name:  test-ISO6400-color.jpg
Views: 97
Size:  439.8 KB

    ISO-6400 B&W
    Name:  test-iso6400-B&W.jpg
Views: 96
Size:  469.3 KB

    Shot with a single 60W fluorescent bulb as the source. Handheld
    50mm - f/4 - 1/60 - ISO 6400 - DR+ Lvl 5 - WB="Incandescent -3"

    I used a tighter aperture to try and demonstrate an improved DOF. Obviously a 2D object like this really cannot depict that, it is clear ... and 1/60th is ... almost slow. Let's face it, ISO-6400 is pretty harsh ... so no miracles, there.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 12-20-2008 at 11:53 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ohio, USA.
    Posts
    1,161
    I think I will try wrestling with the Tamron 17-50, back the ISO down from 3200, see what f/4 looks like. Once the wrestlers hook up the movement isn't that fast for most of the match, may try 200 shutter speed, comments?
    Will do basketball Monday night, I think my shots from up in the back shooting down look better to me, will shoot from there and adjust the settings a bit, work with the aperture some.
    Hey if it was easy we wouldn't have any challenges, or have to share ideas and suggestions, what fun would any of this be then!
    Sony A700_____________Minolta AF 50mm. F/1.7
    Minolta AF 70-210mm F/3.5-4.5 Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR DiII LD Asp. [IF]
    Tamron SP AF 70-200mm. F/2.8 DI LD [IF] Macro
    Tamron AF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 1:2
    Tokina AF 28-70mm F/3.5-4.5
    Tokina AF AT-X 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6
    http://flickr.com/

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