Sony A77
Sony A580
Sony A 100
Maxxum 400si.
Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
Minolta AF 35-70
Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
Tamron 60mm Macro
Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
Tamron 2x Converter
Sony HVL-F42AM
Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
Slingshot 200 Bag
Which 10mm were you using? Please include exif with post.
Also f22 not really recommended with APS-C due to diffraction.
"So if we could, let's have a few simple guidelines:
One picture per person per day max.
Every picture must be different.
EXIF Info (including lens used).
Comments/caption on the shot.
Sorry guys, I didn't read this thread properly before posting. I've gone back and edited my last 3 photos just to give a run down of what I did and where they were taken.
Peekayoh, I like the deep colours you get in the sky at that time of afternoon/night, I've found through trial and error the only way I can tranfer that into a photo is with a long exposure, but using anything between f5.6-f11 means I can only do a 1-5 sec shot at best which isn't long enough, so winding the aperture out to f22 I can do the 20-30 sec exposures which gives me the colours I want.
Apology not necessary but acceptable.
Welcome to the Forum BTW.
Longer exposure for saturation used to be a consideration with film and was, I guess, a function of the way the emulsion was layered and the chemical actions that took place. Reciprocity failure was also a factor.
I don't believe these things are relevant with digital, rather that correct exposure and White Balance play a bigger role.
If it were me I'd be shooting at f8/f11 to get rid of diffraction and find an exposure/WB that gave me what I was after.
Also, whilst a very long exposure can help achieve a particular effect, say to smooth the water, it will also blur anything that moves.
The shorter exposure would make bracketing easier too.
Still, if your method works for you, that's what counts.
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