Home News Buyers Guide About Advertising
 
 
 
   
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562

    Flash Attempt Again

    Here is another attempt at using the flash. I used my Minolta 50mm with on camera flash.

    FrankName:  Angelena on Couch (600 x 502).jpg
Views: 97
Size:  92.9 KB
    Last edited by sparkie1263; 11-28-2008 at 10:57 AM.
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Guelph, Ontario
    Posts
    1,903
    doesn't look washed out. but then again my monitor is old and dark.

    good job!
    Canon EOS 7D

    flickr
    FLUIDR

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560

    Thumbs up You hit the spot

    Quote Originally Posted by sparkie1263 View Post
    Here is another attempt at using the flash. I used my Minolta 50mm with on camera flash.
    Exposure is about dead on, Frank. Nice shot!

    You might just tone down the saturation, to your taste, but as far as highlights and shadows, it's about perfect.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    Thanks to everybody here. I can't read the Exif data from the image. I think I took this at iso 400, f/5.6, speed 1/20. I really slowed the speed down.
    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560
    Anything under 1/60 sec is no longer using the flash, but begins to pick up the ambient light in the room. That means the golden glow of your incandescents are tainting the image. The longer you are open, the more their effect is noticeable.

    You are, in effect, using two sources of light and mixing color balance. One at 5600K and the other at 3200K. In this case, she's baked a little longer, under the 3200K.

    Further explanation says:

    for 1/60th of a second, you had full flash ... but, for the remaining two-thirds of the shutter being open, you had ambient light and the gradual dimming of the flash filling the sensor. I believe this is called "dragging the shutter", but do not quote me on that.

    The flash is synchronized to work on the A100 from 1/60, 1/90, and 1/125. After 1/160, the shutter closes flaster than the flash can propogate and you get some really weird looking effects. In fact, the camera MAY NOT allow you to shoot flash faster than 1/125 with the pop-up.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 11-28-2008 at 11:55 AM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    Is this good or bad?? Should I have increased the speed?
    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560
    Frank .. you turned out a relatively nice looking shot. Who am I to contest that? I'm just saying, if you shoot slower than
    1/60th, with a flash, you introduce other light into your shot. Some may be desired, but normally, this "extra" light is not
    calculated or taken into account, so it usually corrupts the image.

    Here is an image taken with the WB set to correspond with outdoor/flash lighting (6000K).

    Name:  white-balance-issues.jpg
Views: 84
Size:  457.2 KB

    Look at the fluorescents inside that trailer. Green! That's because they are burning at about 4400K versus the 6000K WB
    this image was shot at. Had I been closer, used the flash inside the trailer, and allowed for a longer shutter speed than
    1/60, their effect would have been even more pronounced in the image.

    Most images do change significantly when shot under no-flash and then under flash conditions. Obviously, under no-flash
    Tungsten (3200K), if no one moves during the exposure, you get basically what your eye would see. When you use flash,
    the light source origination point completely changes and is usually on top of your camera. Oh sure, you can bounce
    and play games in how you manuever and maniupulate the light, but it still is rarely the same as an ambient light shot.

    So ... when you MIX the two, with the drag shutter ... you get shadows in places they normally are ... and then you get
    the shadows created by the flash. Personally, I tend to think the images look rather "flat", to be honest.

    If you stay above 1/60 ... the flash is crisp ... and not worn down by the ambient light.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 11-28-2008 at 12:15 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    Now I am starting to understand all this. The more I shoot and check my settings the more I am learning. The Minolta lens is real nice. I miss the zoom. That is why i think my next lens is the 28-70 f/2.8.
    Thanks again
    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560
    Frank, this is just my opinion and you can take it for what it is worth, but I do believe that if you are
    going to shoot with wider apertures (sub-f/2.8), consider abandoning the flash as your lighting unless
    you absolutely cannot take the image any other way
    . The now wider apertures you have available
    to you really accentuate the "hot lighting" (Tungsten) and soften the image, over all. When you are
    taking "faces", that really can improve the results. It just not so harsh, like direct flash usually is.
    Hence, diffusing panels. I mean, seeing someone's "pores", to me, is not a complimentary portrait.

    You have the 50mm f/1.7

    Try using settings like:

    aperture: f/2.0
    speed: 1/10 (you will probably need a tripod for this speed)
    ISO: 400
    Lighting ... a close-by lamp (Tungsten bulb)
    WB: 3200K or "Tungsten" (+/- as necessary)

    Model: "Freeze!" or "Hold it!" ... No blinkin'

    I feel you are trying to use the 50mm lens like your "tighter" lenses. You have opened a whole new
    level of light, that doesn't need flash to work. Now, time is on YOUR side ... you need to get used
    to using it.

    Good luck!
    Last edited by DonSchap; 11-28-2008 at 12:35 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    I will try it today.
    Thanks
    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •