Okay, sunny day ... here is the overall base shot, at about 50mm. Nothing special, just an old house, blue sky .. and lots o' sun.
I then zoomed to 300mm and I have posted the 100% crops of the sign in from of the house.
First the Tokina AT-X 840 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6 @ 300mm (indicated) 100% CROP!
Then, the TAMRON AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 LD@ full stretch 100% CROP
Finally, the TAMRON AF 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF) @ full stretch 100% CROP
EDIT: OKAY, AS DISCUSSED LATER IN THIS THREAD, here's the
TAMRON SP AF 200-500mm f/5-6.3 Di LD Super Zoom @ 300mm (indicated) 100% CROP
Clearly, unparalleled sharpness of focus ... and yes, it was taken at a different time of day (more high noon, than later afternoon - hence darker shadows and brighter highlights, because of the additional solar power), but that only changes the color of the light ... not the razor exactness that the lens offers. Like they say, "Get a bigger gun!" END EDIT
Do not worry about the settings ... this is about soft focus. Check it out, it makes itself quite clear. I am going to surmise that it should be relatively easy for folks to understand why I tend to use the Tokina AT-X 840 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6 rather than any other long zoom. Again, the purple fringe is a little more than the Di lenses, because it is a film lens, but still ... crisper focus for a $500 telephoto zoom.
Also, like I mentioned ... you can see that the 75-300mm and the 28-300mm match up pretty well in focal length once your subject is beyond 27 feet. Also, my 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 has been "tweaked" by TAMRON, so it stands to reason that it really is a lot better than most on the street. Calibration is important and this is about the best you can expect from it.. It's also double the price of the 75-300mm f/4-5.6.
Last edited by DonSchap; 10-30-2008 at 02:49 PM.
- BFA, Digital Photography
A Photographer Is Forever
Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.