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  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    2,204
    Quote Originally Posted by DonSchap View Post
    M-mode stops the exposure from changing your settings, in this case, both ISO and Aperture in S-mode.

    I usually am in M-mode during night shots. I do not want the camera making any decisions when I'm shooting. The lighting is normally FIXED across the field for uniformity. I tried to explain this in one of these posts. Probably that non-SONY DSLR one where the OP was asking about CZ 135mm f/1.8 lens.

    SSS does nothing for you at 1/250th sec. or more, except maybe add feedback. You know your settings ... so why bother? This has been a point of contention, since my Canon days. It's your choice ... but, I shut it off. It looks suspect to me, especially since it appears like there is "camera-shake" in one of these shots.

    So, why not eliminate the issue altogether?

    Do some test shots at your next night shoot ... BEFORE you get involved with real action. Shoot the team's practice shots.

    Some basic setup ideas:

    Aperture: f/2.8
    Speed: 1/500 sec
    ISO: 1000 or 1600
    DRO: off
    SSS: off
    Lens shield: On
    Contrast: +1
    Sharpness: +3
    No EV adjustments (All +EV adjustments do is force the camera to perform slower)
    No circular polarizer
    Great pointers, I will try that next time I'm out .... er with a 70-200/2.8!! But I'm sure I can take something from this and apply it with the 70-300 turtle.
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560
    Yes, reduce speed, sailor! If this works at f/2.8 ... the when you are at f/4 (70-100mm) you could shoot 1/250th (turn SSS "on"!).

    At the long end, (185-300mm) f/5.6 ... 1/125th! (Make darn sure SSS is "on")
    Last edited by DonSchap; 09-28-2008 at 06:32 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ohio, USA.
    Posts
    1,161
    I will give it a shot LOL Yes there is blur from camera shake, need to get used to the lens and the weight of it WOW! and yes I know it is lighter than some other 2.8's but is the most weight I have handled so far! I literely unpacked the lens, examined it for damage, put it on the 700 checked the AF, worked the zoom while looking throught the view finder, fired off a couple of shots at the backyard then put it in the lens "baggie" and headed to the game!
    Sony A700_____________Minolta AF 50mm. F/1.7
    Minolta AF 70-210mm F/3.5-4.5 Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR DiII LD Asp. [IF]
    Tamron SP AF 70-200mm. F/2.8 DI LD [IF] Macro
    Tamron AF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 1:2
    Tokina AF 28-70mm F/3.5-4.5
    Tokina AF AT-X 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6
    http://flickr.com/

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    Quote Originally Posted by seanhoxx View Post
    I will give it a shot LOL Yes there is blur from camera shake, need to get used to the lens and the weight of it WOW! and yes I know it is lighter than some other 2.8's but is the most weight I have handled so far! I literely unpacked the lens, examined it for damage, put it on the 700 checked the AF, worked the zoom while looking throught the view finder, fired off a couple of shots at the backyard then put it in the lens "baggie" and headed to the game!
    After the other day at the zoo, I was tired too from all the walking and camera holding. The weight can really take it's toll on your palms. more practice we need!
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ohio, USA.
    Posts
    1,161
    More practice, and more strength, I have thought about those hand strenght squeeze things, I have acouple laying around in desk drawers somewhere, or those firm rubber balls to squeeze. Maybe a good time to actualy listen to my DR. and cut back on those 10 -12 cups of coffee, and a couple of cokes I have each day!!! I don't notice tremors in my fingers or hands but I wonder.
    Sony A700_____________Minolta AF 50mm. F/1.7
    Minolta AF 70-210mm F/3.5-4.5 Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR DiII LD Asp. [IF]
    Tamron SP AF 70-200mm. F/2.8 DI LD [IF] Macro
    Tamron AF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 1:2
    Tokina AF 28-70mm F/3.5-4.5
    Tokina AF AT-X 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6
    http://flickr.com/

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    Quote Originally Posted by seanhoxx View Post
    More practice, and more strength, I have thought about those hand strenght squeeze things, I have acouple laying around in desk drawers somewhere, or those firm rubber balls to squeeze. Maybe a good time to actualy listen to my DR. and cut back on those 10 -12 cups of coffee, and a couple of cokes I have each day!!! I don't notice tremors in my fingers or hands but I wonder.
    lol.... you could achieve SSS+ if you laid off all that caffeine!!
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ohio, USA.
    Posts
    1,161

    A few more from the 2.8

    a few shots of the band, no flash they are on the track out of the lights, cheer leaders were a pretty long shot.The low light ability seems pretty good even at the settings I used.
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    Sony A700_____________Minolta AF 50mm. F/1.7
    Minolta AF 70-210mm F/3.5-4.5 Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR DiII LD Asp. [IF]
    Tamron SP AF 70-200mm. F/2.8 DI LD [IF] Macro
    Tamron AF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 1:2
    Tokina AF 28-70mm F/3.5-4.5
    Tokina AF AT-X 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6
    http://flickr.com/

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560
    I find that practicing at 100-200mm @ 1/15 sec with SSS off ... really gets your attention. Just go ahead and switch back and forth, handheld, at the same subject. It's amazing. But, what is also equally amazing, is that you (yes, Grasshopper) can train yourself to shoot equally as well with SSS on or off.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    I've done some practicing, but mostly at 90mm and 50mm at 1/10 or 1/8. I can easily do each when I'm calm with SSS on and can do ~200 or so too if I'm really calm and concentrate. With SSS off though I can barely do 90mm and 50mm at 1/10.

    It's funny to read books and/or forums where they advise as a general rule sticking to the reciprocal of the focal length (50mm, no lower than 1/50 sec, that's EASY as pie!).
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ohio, USA.
    Posts
    1,161
    I'm not sure I can even hold the 700 steady with the 50mm prime on it for 1/15 sec. let alone with the big guy. Practice practice
    Sony A700_____________Minolta AF 50mm. F/1.7
    Minolta AF 70-210mm F/3.5-4.5 Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR DiII LD Asp. [IF]
    Tamron SP AF 70-200mm. F/2.8 DI LD [IF] Macro
    Tamron AF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 1:2
    Tokina AF 28-70mm F/3.5-4.5
    Tokina AF AT-X 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6
    http://flickr.com/

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