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  1. #41
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ohio, USA.
    Posts
    1,161

    More football

    Am I missing something simple? How can I add the data to the bottom of the pic???
    135mm F2.8 1/250sec ISO1600 Spot meter S mode EV. +0.7 SSS on
    150mm - all info. same as in above data.
    Sony A700_____________Minolta AF 50mm. F/1.7
    Minolta AF 70-210mm F/3.5-4.5 Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR DiII LD Asp. [IF]
    Tamron SP AF 70-200mm. F/2.8 DI LD [IF] Macro
    Tamron AF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 1:2
    Tokina AF 28-70mm F/3.5-4.5
    Tokina AF AT-X 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6
    http://flickr.com/

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    You need firefox. They have a EXIF data tool that you just right click on the image and it lists all the EXIF data and you can copy and past it in you post.
    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ohio, USA.
    Posts
    1,161

    lets try it with photos

    same data as posted above, can yopu tell I am not on my own computer?
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Sony A700_____________Minolta AF 50mm. F/1.7
    Minolta AF 70-210mm F/3.5-4.5 Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR DiII LD Asp. [IF]
    Tamron SP AF 70-200mm. F/2.8 DI LD [IF] Macro
    Tamron AF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 1:2
    Tokina AF 28-70mm F/3.5-4.5
    Tokina AF AT-X 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6
    http://flickr.com/

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ohio, USA.
    Posts
    1,161

    A few more for now

    Astro turf seems to have somewhat of a reflective property?
    Attached Images Attached Images       
    Sony A700_____________Minolta AF 50mm. F/1.7
    Minolta AF 70-210mm F/3.5-4.5 Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR DiII LD Asp. [IF]
    Tamron SP AF 70-200mm. F/2.8 DI LD [IF] Macro
    Tamron AF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 1:2
    Tokina AF 28-70mm F/3.5-4.5
    Tokina AF AT-X 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6
    http://flickr.com/

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    Some great shots there! I like the color on their jerseys, really stands out!
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,562
    I see some motion blur. I went and checked your EXIF and even at f/2.8 and ISO 1600 you can't get the speed up. That's tough lightning. Maybe Don can give us some pointers.
    Frank
    Sony A77
    Sony A580
    Sony A 100
    Maxxum 400si.
    Sony 18-70 Kit Lens
    Minolta AF 35-70
    Minolta AF 50 f/1.7
    Tamron 70-300 f/4-5.6 Di LD
    Tamron 60mm Macro
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Tamron 2x Converter
    Sony HVL-F42AM
    Quantaray 70-300 4.5-5.6 Macro
    Slingshot 200 Bag



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083244@N06/

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn219/sparkie1263/

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,204
    Oh, wow, didn't realize these were from the new lens .

    I think the only that would help alleviate motion blur at the current settings would be to pan with the players as best as you can, but of course, not everyone is moving in the same direction so only one object will stand out.
    flickr

    Canon 7D - 5D | 550EX - 430EX II - (2) PW FlexTT5 | 24-105 f4L | 70-200 f2.8L IS | 100 f2.8L IS | 50 f1.8 II

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554
    How's it workin' for you? Speed's up ... lighting looks good. Probably should be at 1/500 if you do not pan. It's only a third of an f/stop from where you are in these.

    Practice some daylight stuff, shooting moving cars and such. See if you can get the panning motion down. Also, with speeds of this sort (anything over 1/250th), shut off SSS.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 09-28-2008 at 11:32 AM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ohio, USA.
    Posts
    1,161
    SSS OFF? would M mode be better then S mode? I tried to stay at 250 - 320 and 2.8 I really thought there would be less blur? Played around with some +o.3 and +o.7 EV I was standing about 4 feet off the sideline and about half way between the goal line and the back end zone. As we were "away" I didn't feel as comfortable as I normaly would walking up and down the sidelines and endzones. any more advice? will be at soccer Monday night.
    Sony A700_____________Minolta AF 50mm. F/1.7
    Minolta AF 70-210mm F/3.5-4.5 Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR DiII LD Asp. [IF]
    Tamron SP AF 70-200mm. F/2.8 DI LD [IF] Macro
    Tamron AF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 1:2
    Tokina AF 28-70mm F/3.5-4.5
    Tokina AF AT-X 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6
    http://flickr.com/

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,554

    Lightbulb Settling on settings

    M-mode stops the exposure from changing your settings, in this case, both ISO and Aperture in S-mode.

    I usually am in M-mode during night shots. I do not want the camera making any decisions when I'm shooting. The lighting is normally FIXED across the field for uniformity. I tried to explain this in one of these posts. Probably that non-SONY DSLR one where the OP was asking about CZ 135mm f/1.8 lens. I suggest you guys get used to shooting this way ... you will have ultimate control over your shots.

    Shoot an AUTO shot in the very beginning and note all the camera's settings. The camera will struggle to resolve the image based on its idea of "the perfect shot", but it does not consider motion or the fact you want bokeh, too.

    Concerning SSS: It really does nothing for you at 1/250th sec. or more, except maybe add feedback. You know your settings ... so why bother? This has been a point of contention, since my Canon days. It's your choice ... but, I shut it off. It looks suspect to me, especially since it appears like there is "camera-shake" in one of these shots.

    So, why not eliminate the issue altogether?

    Do some test shots at your next night shoot ... BEFORE you get involved with real action. Shoot the team's practice shots.

    Some basic setup ideas:

    Mode: M
    Aperture: f/2.8
    Speed: 1/500 sec
    ISO: 1000 or 1600
    DRO: off
    SSS: off
    Lens shield: On
    Contrast: +1
    Sharpness: +3
    No EV adjustments (All +EV adjustments do is force the camera to perform slower)
    No circular polarizer
    Last edited by DonSchap; 09-28-2008 at 06:07 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

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