Who wants to live forever?

[seanhoxx]

Am I missing something simple? How can I add the data to the bottom of the pic???
135mm F2.8 1/250sec ISO1600 Spot meter S mode EV. +0.7 SSS on
150mm - all info. same as in above data.

[sparkie1263]

You need firefox. They have a EXIF data tool that you just right click on the image and it lists all the EXIF data and you can copy and past it in you post.
Frank

[seanhoxx]

same data as posted above, can yopu tell I am not on my own computer?

[seanhoxx]

Astro turf seems to have somewhat of a reflective property?

[dr4gon]

Some great shots there! I like the color on their jerseys, really stands out!

[sparkie1263]

I see some motion blur. I went and checked your EXIF and even at f/2.8 and ISO 1600 you can't get the speed up. That's tough lightning. Maybe Don can give us some pointers.
Frank

[dr4gon]

Oh, wow, didn't realize these were from the new lens .

I think the only that would help alleviate motion blur at the current settings would be to pan with the players as best as you can, but of course, not everyone is moving in the same direction so only one object will stand out.

[DonSchap]

How's it workin' for you? Speed's up ... lighting looks good. Probably should be at 1/500 if you do not pan. It's only a third of an f/stop from where you are in these.

Practice some daylight stuff, shooting moving cars and such. See if you can get the panning motion down. Also, with speeds of this sort (anything over 1/250th), shut off SSS.

[seanhoxx]

SSS OFF? would M mode be better then S mode? I tried to stay at 250 - 320 and 2.8 I really thought there would be less blur? Played around with some +o.3 and +o.7 EV I was standing about 4 feet off the sideline and about half way between the goal line and the back end zone. As we were "away" I didn't feel as comfortable as I normaly would walking up and down the sidelines and endzones. any more advice? will be at soccer Monday night.

[DonSchap]

M-mode stops the exposure from changing your settings, in this case, both ISO and Aperture in S-mode.

I usually am in M-mode during night shots. I do not want the camera making any decisions when I'm shooting. The lighting is normally FIXED across the field for uniformity. I tried to explain this in one of these posts. Probably that non-SONY DSLR one where the OP was asking about CZ 135mm f/1.8 lens. I suggest you guys get used to shooting this way ... you will have ultimate control over your shots.

Shoot an AUTO shot in the very beginning and note all the camera's settings. The camera will struggle to resolve the image based on its idea of "the perfect shot", but it does not consider motion or the fact you want bokeh, too.

Concerning SSS: It really does nothing for you at 1/250th sec. or more, except maybe add feedback. You know your settings ... so why bother? This has been a point of contention, since my Canon days. It's your choice ... but, I shut it off. It looks suspect to me, especially since it appears like there is "camera-shake" in one of these shots.

So, why not eliminate the issue altogether?

Do some test shots at your next night shoot ... BEFORE you get involved with real action. Shoot the team's practice shots.

Some basic setup ideas:

Mode: M
Aperture: f/2.8
Speed: 1/500 sec
ISO: 1000 or 1600
DRO: off
SSS: off
Lens shield: On
Contrast: +1
Sharpness: +3
No EV adjustments (All +EV adjustments do is force the camera to perform slower)
No circular polarizer