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 Just for some comparison ...
Well, just to give you a lighting and IQ comparison, three shots. This uses the pop-up flash.
Dist: 1 foot (remember: 1-foot is not an option w/ T28-200 f/3.8-5.6 -> min focus dist. 6.9 ft w/o close up adapter)
50mm f/1.4
50mm f/1.7
50mm f/4.5
The idea is to give you some idea of the brightness and sharpness differences between the apertures. Going wide does not mean you are going to have a good image, just brighter ... and usually softer.
DOF can have some widening if you give the lens some distance, but still, it's really, really tight under f/2.
Last edited by DonSchap; 09-13-2008 at 08:15 PM.
Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
A Photographer Is Forever
Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.
flickr® & Sdi
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Don how would the Tamron 90mm f/2.8 have done for me? Is there a big difference between the f/3.5 and the f/2.8
Frank
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Okay ... since you are so demanding ... here are three more, only this time ... yes, I actually threw in the
28-200mm f/3.8-5.6, set to 50mm, and w/ the close-up filter on it.
Shutter speed and ISO is the same for all shots (1/60 - ISO-400) Pop-up flash used ... which compensates
its illumination at distances greater than two feet, therefore exposure is adjusted automagically by TTL, unlike
the 1-foot shots.
Subject distance: 3.2 feet
28-200mm f/3.8-5.6 @ 50mm f/4.5 (Maximum aperture at this focal length)
50mm f/1.4 @ f/1.4
50mm f/1.4 @ f/1.7
As you can see, using the pop-up flash really makes aperture difficult to use as a illumination control. The wider you
set the aperture ... the less light the flash generates, or vice-versa. You wind up having to control the pop-up flash
with the "flash compensation" setting. In the above shots, I allowed the camera to decide the illumination and left
the compensation alone.
Last edited by DonSchap; 09-13-2008 at 08:37 PM.
Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
A Photographer Is Forever
Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.
flickr® & Sdi
-
 Originally Posted by sparkie1263
Don how would the Tamron 90mm f/2.8 have done for me? Is there a big difference between the f/3.5 and the f/2.8
Frank
Frank,
I feel that f/2.8 is probably the "floor aperture" you want to use for portrait work, unless you are really going for some kind of creative angle, because of the shallow DOF under ten feet using wider apertures.
When you speak of f/3.5, to which lens are you referring?
Last edited by DonSchap; 09-14-2008 at 07:33 AM.
Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
A Photographer Is Forever
Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.
flickr® & Sdi
-
If you mean the base aperture of the TAMRON AF 28-200mm f/3.8-5.6 you are using -> @ 90mm the base aperture climbs to f/5.6! That is the widest you can get with that lens.
Focal length vs. BASE Aperture (28-200mm f/3.8-5.6 lens) on the A100
28-36mm . . . . f/4
36-55mm . . . . f/4.5
55-70mm . . . . f/5
70-200mm . . . f/5.6
The TAMRON SP AF 90mm f/2.8 Di MACRO will be four times BRIGHTER @ f/2.8
Last edited by DonSchap; 09-13-2008 at 09:03 PM.
Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
A Photographer Is Forever
Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.
flickr® & Sdi
-
Don I should have used the close-up filter?? I thought that was for macro. I said it once and I will say it again I cannot shoot people inside. I have alot to learn about flash photography. I guess I will have to hit the books.
Frank
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Photography is not an overnight success story. It takes quite a bit to learn your equipment and how to make it work for you. You are doing it right, though ... shoot and learn. Don't give up the ship.
The "close-up lens" was designed to allow you to pull to about 3-feet M.F.D., but it also changes the infinite focus ... you lose it with that "filter" on the lens. It is a "close-up" lens ... not a MACRO lens. My best advice is to put it on and just try it out. Shoot a "steady" subject and learn the limitations, near and far. It also changes, somewhat, with the focal length you choose.
As far as shooting with flash ... LOL That is an entirely different issue no matter what lens you use, they all respond differently. Some lose the edge lighting while others have a good sweep ... and then there is also subject distance. It really is a pain in the rump and there are books and books dedicated to that one aspect of photography, alone, so once again, practice is key and knowing your equipment.
This is more than just snap shooting ... but, have fun with it. The experiences are really where we learn and excel at our art. Once in a while ... we hit the homerun!
Last edited by DonSchap; 09-14-2008 at 07:35 AM.
Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
A Photographer Is Forever
Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.
flickr® & Sdi
-
I have a party today. I will try my luck with the 28-200 again and I will try some with the close-up filter. Again on board flash only.
Frank
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