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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,760
    older dg..got it for 350 on ebay...teach people to have stuff end 3 in the morn..lol

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560

    Thumbs up Way to go!

    That's a sweet deal for 70-200mm f/2.8! My goodness

    Yeah ... I hate having those well-after-midnight sales, too. I always run into "scoopers" ... who waiting until the very end, then dive in and toss $500 at it ... only bust everyone out and get the darn thing for $329 or something. Sometimes, I don't know how they win ... bidding one dollar over my bid, at the end. Then again, there are some focal ranges that simply aren't used enough by me to even make it worth the time.

    Good job, SONYNUT. Too bad we can't get SONY-mount Carl Zeiss-glass at that kind of discount. It just might be worth the staying up late.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,760
    A ONE DOLLAR ABOVE DOES NOT MEAN THATS WHAT YOU LOST BY...that is usually the next bid incroment above your highest bid...

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    10
    Hey Don

    I decided to get what you suggested Tamron AF70-300 F/4-5.6 Di and I'm happy with it. here one picture that I took.


    Last edited by jpuma1616; 02-16-2008 at 08:19 PM.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560

    Lightbulb Some 300mm f/5.6 considerations ...

    That's great for outdoors ... but now you need to learn about its issues with being used indoors. I'm certain you will be quite surprised, in the beginning, as this is not considered an "indoor lens" w/o some kind of flash assist or extraordinary lighting.

    I did a series of example shots ... and remember, these are only 7 feet off.

    Example:

    300mm f/5.6 ISO-800 WB=Tungsten - under ordinary house lighting - distance: 7-feet

    1/60 (minimal action allowed of subject)
    Name:  300mm-f56-60-iso800-T.jpg
Views: 98
Size:  139.5 KB

    1/30 (no movement by subject)
    Name:  300mm-f56-30-iso800-T.jpg
Views: 102
Size:  171.9 KB

    1/15 (minimum handheld - no movement by subject)
    Name:  300mm-f56-15-iso800-T.jpg
Views: 98
Size:  207.1 KB

    This is a pretty good example of what lighting effect you would get when you add a teleconverter (T/C) to your lens. Two f-stops worth of light can just kill a shot.


    The unfortunate side of the 70-300mm is how it deals with ambient light ... and that's the challenge you will face when using this particular lens.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 02-16-2008 at 09:55 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560

    Lightbulb 70mm f/4 considerations ...

    70mm @ f/4 ISO-800 Tunsten (same distance: 7-feet) provides you this:

    1/60 (again, minimal movement)
    Name:  70mm-f4-60-iso800-T.jpg
Views: 105
Size:  212.1 KB

    1/30 (no subject movement allowed)
    Name:  70mm-f4-30-iso800-T.jpg
Views: 101
Size:  211.6 KB

    1/15 (minimum handheld speed, no subject movement allowed)
    Name:  70mm-f4-15-iso800-T.jpg
Views: 93
Size:  217.8 KB

    The series is one f/stop brighter ... but, you get everything and lose the zoom.

    I set this up as an ad hoc-shot, to show you that under less than controlled conditions, you get what you get. Exposure is going to be rough. Judging from what I have gotten from ISO-1600, its tough to say. You can opt for it, but a constant diet of 1600 or higher may start to infuriate you after you start your post-processing.

    Here are the test shots, same conditions ... 300mm f/5.6 1/60-second WB=Tungsten at the higher ISOs

    ISO-1600
    Name:  300mm-f56-60-iso1600-T.jpg
Views: 93
Size:  170.5 KB

    ISO-3200
    Name:  300mm-f56-60-iso3200-T.jpg
Views: 102
Size:  216.6 KB

    ISO-6400

    Name:  300mm-f56-60-iso6400-T.jpg
Views: 106
Size:  222.8 KB
    Last edited by DonSchap; 02-16-2008 at 06:18 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    10
    Don

    Can you tell me the best Manual settings for this kind of shooting situation, ( NBA Game in Madison Square Garden )




    Thanks

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560

    Lightbulb Settings he wants ... LOL

    Could you get any further away? LOL

    Well ... the flash idea is totally undoable. You're stuck with what light they see fit to use. Settings ...

    Well, f/5.6 is your aperture to work with, that is assuming you are going to want to see as close as possible, at 300mm. Until you get under 270mm ... where the maximum aperture opens to 4.5mm (much better). If you can shoot at 270mm or less, it would do well in this instance. The extra 30mm is hardly worth it.

    So ... this is a guessimate just to get yourself started:

    Mode: Manual
    Focal length: 270mm (make a mental note that this your max zoom)
    Aperture: f/4.5 (most light available through lens at full zoom (limited to 270mm))
    Shutter Speed: 1/60 (any slower and people will definitely blur)
    ISO: 800 (start here ... 400 would be pointless)
    White Balance: AWB (this should accurately accomodate the lighting you have available)

    and take a shot.

    If it is too dark, step the ISO to 1600 ... and let it play. Occasionally try ISO-3200 ... but experience says ISO-6400 is going to look kind of rough, so I would suggest not going there, unless you just want to try it out for fun (nothing worth keeping).

    Shy away from slow down the shutter, though ... as that will introduce more blur by the guys running around the basketball court.

    Remember: Always check your images with the magnification button (it's definitely worth your time ... most novices fail to do this) ... because the camera's 3-inch LCD in normal mode will not let you see subtle blurring and camera shake. You need to know if your pictures are looking correct AT THE EVENT ... not after you get them home, where there is nothing you can do about it.

    Good luck ...
    Last edited by DonSchap; 02-16-2008 at 08:36 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    10
    Could you get any further away? LOL



    LOL that's the cheapest ticket eh hehehe. anyway thanks for all the tips, really appreciate it. I'll post pictures after the game.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560
    You know, I've been dorkin' around with this combination (α700 w/ TAMRON 70-300 f/4-5.6) for a couple of hours now ...

    Name:  a700-w-70-300.jpg
Views: 191
Size:  225.1 KB

    and I am noting that ISO-3200 actually is turning out better stuff than the ISO-1600 shots. I'm not sure what is accounting for this apparent improvement, but it seems to be responding better with "Super SteadyShot™", focus is sharper and providing an f/stop more light to boot. (Sensor sensitivity?)

    Before you decide on any settings ... try out your own ISO-3200 setting, in the house, and see how the images look. You may just be surprised. I know I am.

    If it does look good, using ISO-3200 will offer you a higher shutter speed to stop the action ... and reduce the movement blur. It could make that f/4-5.6 almost competative. Who knows?
    Last edited by DonSchap; 02-16-2008 at 09:29 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

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