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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by DonSchap View Post
    You know, I've been dorkin' around with this combination (α700 w/ TAMRON 70-300 f/4-5.6) for a couple of hours now ...

    Attachment 33288

    and I am noting that ISO-3200 actually is turning out better stuff than the ISO-1600 shots. I'm not sure what is accounting for this apparent improvement, but it seems to be responding better with "Super SteadyShot™", focus is sharper and providing an f/stop more light to boot. (Sensor sensitivity?)

    Before you decide on any settings ... try out your own ISO-3200 setting, in the house, and see how the images look. You may just be surprised. I know I am.

    If it does look good, using ISO-3200 will offer you a higher shutter speed to stop the action ... and reduce the movement blur. It could make that f/4-5.6 almost competative. Who knows?

    I'm going to try it, by the way, how do you take this picture without a background? Did you take this picture?

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,560

    Red face It's kinda of what I do ...

    Of course, I took the image ... LOL

    That's what I don't get paid for.

    Basically, if you look at the images I presented earlier, you will see the curved backboard I use. I simply set the subject camera on a tripod ... mounted about two feet away ... vary the frame with zoom and location to allow the camera to stretch from edge to edge of the back board, pop the external flash on top of the α100 ... using a diffused ceiling-bounce technique to eliminate the shadow at full-power and viola!

    I then used Photoshop to chop out the tripod mount and the extra camera strap and touched it up with a smear or two.

    Here's the original AUTO Mode test (concept) shot with pop-up flash (you can see that the shadow is not getting it done):
    Name:  AUTO-prep-shot.jpg
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Size:  24.4 KB

    Then the final lighting adjustment in manual mode with SONY hot shoe external flash HVL-F56AM (ceiling bounce to entirely eliminate direct shadow and soften exposure):
    Name:  working-shot.jpg
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Size:  84.2 KB

    You saw the crop and touch-up.

    α700 w/ TAMRON AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 LD
    Name:  a700-w-70-300.jpg
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Size:  225.1 KB
    Taken with α100 w/ TAMRON 17-50mm f/2.8
    EXIF: 50mm - f/8 - 1/60 sec - ISO-800 - EXT Flash - Manual

    I probably should have gone to f/11 or 16 to improve the DOF, but I was happy with this rather "natural look" for what we were doing. I would have preferred to have some lovely looking model hold it, too, but I'm fresh out that, this week.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 02-17-2008 at 11:13 AM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr® & Sdi

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Bay Area, California
    Posts
    1,546
    You dont really need a superfast lens to shoot NBA games. Ive done about 8 NBA games in different stadiums and they are so well lit that my 55-200mm f/4-5.6 was able to take in enough light even at f/5.6 with a shutter around 1/320 and iso1600. Oh course faster glass would be preferred but for those price tags its not a must have.
    Nikon D90, D40 Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 | Sigma 50-150mm f/2.8 | Nikkor 35mm f/1.8
    Vertical Grip, SB-600, SB-24, Sunpak 433D, Metz 40AF-4N, Alienbees CyberSync Triggers

    R3G Media | Flickr

    "You're pulling some awesome action shots with a cam and lens that are supposed to be rubbish ! " - Rooz

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    10
    thanks Don for a nice tutorial.

    thanks to your reply r3g.

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