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  1. #1
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    Jan 2008
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    Goodyear,AZ
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    pic of new puppy

    Here is a pic of my new 8 week german shepherd. I think it looks good,but
    I'm still new at this. Any comments on what you like or dislike of the
    pic. I did have to lighten it up.
    Sony A100 w/Tamron 17-50 f2.8
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Des Plaines, IL
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    Cool S-Mode issues

    Quote Originally Posted by scott630 View Post
    Here is a pic of my new 8 week german shepherd. I think it looks good,but
    I'm still new at this. Any comments on what you like or dislike of the
    pic. I did have to lighten it up.
    Sony α100 w/Tamron 17-50 f2.8
    Okay, Scott ... the thing about "Shutter-Priority" type shots is ... that once you are at max aperture of the lens (in this case, f/2.8), the aperture simply cannot get any wider. No matter how much you ramp up the speed ... you are always at MAX aperture.

    Did you check your metering to see what it was reading?

    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
    100 __ 2.8 __-2 . . 1 . . 0 . . 1 . . 2+

    I'm betting that (because you have stated that the exposure was dark and you had to lighten it up) the camera's internal meter looked more like this:

    . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|
    100 __>2.8<__ -2 . . 1 . . 0 . . 1 . . 2+

    And here you're thinking ... man, it's in 'shutter-priority' ... what can go wrong?

    Just to prove it ...
    1. turn on the α100
    2. set the mode switch to "S"
    3. set your shutter speed to 1-second (1")
    4. if you are indoors, the aperture should be some higher value (f/7.1 or something near that)
    5. start to decrease the shutter-speed (going faster) in progressive steps until the aperture indicates f/2.8.
    6. take it one shutter-speed faster ... and the aperture indicator will start to >blink<. This is your visual warning or cue that you are at MAX-aperture for the lens or the selected focal length (depending on the lens). The aperture can no longer adjust for your selected speed, based on the current lighting conditions being metered. You can still take the shot ... but now, the exposure is off, according to the internal metering of the camera.


    This is what I think may have happened with the original image of "Montana", there.

    Now remember, as you turn the lens toward a light source or a brighter lit area, the metering will change ... and suddenly, when the camera detects the "correct" exposure settings match, the aperture indicator will quit flashing and then the aperture indicator will begin to increase, auto-magically, to properly compensate for the light, at that specified shutter speed.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 02-08-2008 at 08:20 AM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  3. #3
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    Jan 2008
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    Goodyear,AZ
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    you are right Don, I never even checked the metering. thanks for the
    little test.

  4. #4
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    Feb 2006
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    Des Plaines, IL
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    Red face Somethings are just ... so true

    Metering is critical to most shots, but you often find yourself so caught up in composing the image in the viewfinder ... and allowing to camera to auto-0magically compensate in these modes ... you tend to forget their limitations and to look at the meter. It is always working. And, if you look at the right side of the meter scale, you will see a progressive bar-graph (like on your cellphone) from which you can also tell how much of a strain you are putting on the "Super SteadyShot™." This is a real handy indicator at the slower shutter-speeds (1/15 - 1/80) or using telephoto lenses (100mm - 500mm).

    I tossed the own TAMRON 17-50mm on my α700 and candidly took this ... from my desk clock:

    Name:  a700-Rules.jpg
Views: 147
Size:  213.0 KB
    EXIF: 50mm - f/2.8 - 1/4 sec - ISO-400 - WB=Tungsten - SSS handheld - Ambient light - Distance: 3 feet

    I did this so you could take note of the f/2.8 bokeh effect on the background ... about two feet behind the clock. The closer you get to "Montana" for a focus, the more pronounced this blurring effect will becomes, at f/2.8 aperture. It tends to make for a nicer portrait.

    Raise your hand, if you agree ...

    Name:  Trak-&-Friend.jpg
Views: 139
Size:  226.8 KB
    Last edited by DonSchap; 02-08-2008 at 08:29 AM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Goodyear,AZ
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    so the exposure metering is just a visual gage to help
    set speed?

  6. #6
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    Des Plaines, IL
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    Red face Clarification ...

    Well .. kind of. You normally use Speed-priority for action shots ... where something is moving and you need to reduce the motion blur or FREEZE the subject.

    On the other hand, Aperture-priority is used where you determine the "kind" of image you want ... with excessive blurring of focus around your subject ... or not. If you are shooting the length of a car, let's say, you want your aperture at roughly f/11 or higher (going towards f/22) so that the front of the car, the middle and the rear are all in focus. This is called a deep Depth of Field (DOF). You are the one who should control that ... with using A-priority Mode on your camera. If you were to shoot the car at, say, f/2.8 ... only the car door handle will be in focus and the other ends of the vehicle ... well, not.

    As you can probably see ... if your aperture is constantly changing by using the S-mode ... your nice image of that same car could be in jeopardy. Yes, the exposure will be right, because you adjusted your shutter-speed and metered to zero ... but chances are ... you are way below the desired f/11 in Aperture. Therefore, the DOF is very shallow ... and only the center part of the vehicle will be sharp.

    Basically, the meter normally tells you if you are off-exposure, based on the type of metering mode you choose. It will not offer focal assistance. That's your job. Let's look at the available metering modes:

    There are:
    • Multi-segment - This divides the whole screen into 40 segments to measure light (40-segment honeycomb pattern metering)
    • Center-weighted - While emphasizing the center area of the screen, this mode measures the average brightness of the entire screen. If you shoot directly into the sun light or the subject is not in the center of the image, you must use exposure compensation.
    • Spot - This mode measures light only in the spot metering circle in the center of the frame. This is suitable for shooting a subject with strong contrast or measuring the light of a specific area on the screen. If the area to be measured is not in the center of the screen, use AE Lock to take the picture


    The point is ... the only way to be sure you are not in some off-the-mark lighting situation is to read the meter. It should read zero most of the time, if you've got it right. If you are in S-Mode and have set your desired speed (whaterever it is) into the camera, then you are going to have to hunt for light to get it there, because the aperture is going to close or open up with the light ... until it simply cannot widen any more.

    In the S-mode or A-mode .. the meter is your best guide to proper exposure.

    In Manual-mode ... you decide how to get the meter to zero ... by adjusting everything ... Aperture, Shutter-speed and ISO. They all play their part ... for proper exposure. Exposure compensation(EC) is another shortcut to quickly adjusting the camera for a good meter reading.

    Remember, if anything, to expose "to the right."

    . . . . . . . . . . .|
    -2 . . 1 . . 0 . . 1 . . 2+


    It's better to have a little more light, than not enough. Post-processing software will compensate for overexposure ... but, it will only help show "the noise" for an underexposure, as you try to save it.
    Last edited by DonSchap; 02-08-2008 at 07:03 PM.
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Goodyear,AZ
    Posts
    15
    Thanks, one really never knows how much of an
    art it takes to make that perfect picture until one
    picks up a slr. it truly is a skill. Thanks once again
    for explaining the things you do.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,557

    Thumbs up Ask away ... it's fun to learn

    Well ... there's more to photography than just tripping the shutter.

    Who knew?
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Des Plaines, IL
    Posts
    9,557

    Red face just some trial efforts ...

    I took the liberty of a crop and a slight manipulation of the lighting. Just to trial it.

    Original
    Name:  Montana%20022%282%29.jpg
Views: 115
Size:  156.0 KB

    Post processing & crop
    Name:  Montana1.jpg
Views: 110
Size:  65.7 KB
    Don Schap - BFA, Digital Photography
    A Photographer Is Forever
    Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them.
    Remember: It is usually the GLASS, not the camera (except for moving to Full Frame), that gives you the most improvement in your photography.

    flickr & Sdi

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Goodyear,AZ
    Posts
    15
    how would this pic look in B&W? Sorry, I don't know how to
    switch it since I just shot in JPEG and not RAW. I'm using
    the software that came with the A100

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