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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    485
    How do you know that the blur is from the people movings vs CJ moving? There is a guy in the background who seems to be standing at the sidelines, and he is blurry too. Shouldn't he have been a little less blurry?

    When you use apeture priority, it slows down the shutter speed? Manual is better than a-priority? Sometimes when I want a faster shutter speed, I put it into the auto settings, and find that it works faster.
    Leah
    Nikon D90, because I have a nice Mom.
    Nikon 18-105 VR kit lens | Nikon 50mm f/1.8 |
    Nikon 35mm f/1.8G |
    Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 HSM |Nikon 70-300mm f/4-5.6G VR
    SB 600 & SB400

    Canon G9 "borrowed" from my step-father

    flickr

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    385
    Thank you so much everyone! Especially for the repeated explainings, lol. They finally sunk in and I get, I hope, what y'all have been explaining. Plus I now have crib notes in my camera bag.

    Her next game is Thursday so I'll get to try it out then. I've gone in a set my camera on manual, found all the settings and what I need to do to adjust them, etc. already. Thanks to your tips and the Nikon D50 book.

    I told my DH that I feel I'm using a point and shoot still and y'all can just spout it all off.

    Y'all are cool.
    CJ


    Nikon D90, 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S, DX Zoom-Nikkor, 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor, 55-200mm f/4-5.6G AF-S DX VR, Induro AT-214 w/DM-12 ballhead, SB-800, SB-600 + diffuser, Light stand and umbrella, Hoya Polarizing Filter 52mm, Lowepro Slingshot 200 AW, and Lowepro Nova 170 AW for daily carry around


    My FlickR account

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    385
    Quote Originally Posted by mugsisme View Post
    How do you know that the blur is from the people movings vs CJ moving? There is a guy in the background who seems to be standing at the sidelines, and he is blurry too. Shouldn't he have been a little less blurry?

    When you use apeture priority, it slows down the shutter speed? Manual is better than a-priority? Sometimes when I want a faster shutter speed, I put it into the auto settings, and find that it works faster.

    He was blurry because I was panning and he was standing still.

    I think it's because the girl is partly in focus, so I know I was focused correctly on her body.

    Trust me, I had a ton that were just all blurry.
    CJ


    Nikon D90, 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S, DX Zoom-Nikkor, 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor, 55-200mm f/4-5.6G AF-S DX VR, Induro AT-214 w/DM-12 ballhead, SB-800, SB-600 + diffuser, Light stand and umbrella, Hoya Polarizing Filter 52mm, Lowepro Slingshot 200 AW, and Lowepro Nova 170 AW for daily carry around


    My FlickR account

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    485
    Ah, I didn't realize that (you were panning). I took pictures at my son's game. I had to manually focus on my camera, but the 50mm was great! Even in terrible light. I had a lot of out of focus pictures, and some blurry ones. But over all, there were definetly usable pictures.

    My father gave me an excellent piece of advice about photography. He said that since I am using digital, and it doesn't "cost" me anything, take a lot of pictures. He said if I take 100 pictures and have 2 keepers, then it is better than taking 25 and having no keepers. So that is what I do now. I take a lot of pictures, and end up with some that are good.

    Please post some pictures after Thursday's game.
    Leah
    Nikon D90, because I have a nice Mom.
    Nikon 18-105 VR kit lens | Nikon 50mm f/1.8 |
    Nikon 35mm f/1.8G |
    Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 HSM |Nikon 70-300mm f/4-5.6G VR
    SB 600 & SB400

    Canon G9 "borrowed" from my step-father

    flickr

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Maryland's Eastern Shore
    Posts
    2,143
    Yep, the consenus about the ISO too low to keep your shutter up
    is definitely on the right track. Now I am going to go against the manual
    mode for one reason, the lighting in school gyms vary greatly at different areas of the court. Check for yourself during warmups, just focus on different areas of the court and see what kind of ss you get. Now if you are quick at your adjustments to get proper exposure, have at it. Me, basketball moves very quickly and I am more concerned with catching the action.

    experiment, At some point in the game or warmup, use s mode and iso 1600 with your lens stopped up. If your ss is fast enough, you can drop it back to 800.

    Just came back from my sons game, our gym is an abyss, lighting wise.
    - Rich

    Nikon: D50, 18-70mm, 50mm, 70-200vr
    Kenko: 12mm, 20mm, 36mm Ext Tubes
    Manfrotto: 486RC2
    Benro: A-327 tripod


    My Flickr Photos Here

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Windy Wyoming, USA
    Posts
    2,605
    Quote Originally Posted by mugsisme View Post
    When you use apeture priority, it slows down the shutter speed? Manual is better than a-priority? Sometimes when I want a faster shutter speed, I put it into the auto settings, and find that it works faster.
    If you put the camera in aperture-priority, that means the camera will adjust all the other settings to create correct exposure. Unless you use Auto ISO (which is generally not recommended unless you really know how it works) the ONLY thing the camera can adjust is the shutter speed. So if the scene is not adequately exposed with, say, a speed of 1/250, it will lower the SS until the scene is properly exposed. In a low-light situation, that often means a SS that results in subject movement and/or camera shake.

    That's why using manual mode is recommended. Shutter-priority could also work, with the shutter speed at 1/250. The only time I use aperture priority is if I have plenty of light and I want a specific aperture for DOF purposes.
    Nikon D50, Nikkor 18-55mm, Nikkor 50mm 1.8, Sigma 70-300mm APO DG Macro, Tokina 12-24
    Flickr

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    485
    Quote Originally Posted by toriaj View Post
    That's why using manual mode is recommended. Shutter-priority could also work, with the shutter speed at 1/250. The only time I use aperture priority is if I have plenty of light and I want a specific aperture for DOF purposes.
    OK, that makes sense. My father said I use shallow DOF too much, and need to try and move away from it. My problem is I am using a-priority to deal with a low light situation, and that causes the shallow dof.
    Leah
    Nikon D90, because I have a nice Mom.
    Nikon 18-105 VR kit lens | Nikon 50mm f/1.8 |
    Nikon 35mm f/1.8G |
    Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 HSM |Nikon 70-300mm f/4-5.6G VR
    SB 600 & SB400

    Canon G9 "borrowed" from my step-father

    flickr

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    1,148
    OK, that makes sense. My father said I use shallow DOF too much, and need to try and move away from it.
    Well, you are the one that needs to determine your intent. If you want pictures at all of indoor basketball (especially school gymnasium types) you are going to have shallow dof. If you had a D300 and could shoot clean at ISO1600 then you might have more options. The general population must deal with the tradeoff of noise at high iso. This means that open aperture, a set shutter speed, and adjusting your ISO is for me the most straightforward way to do this. Like I mentioned, you want to reduce motion blur. Your cost of reducing motion blur will be a combination of high ISO and shutter speed. If you want more DOF, then the cost would be substantially high.

    Worry about more depth of field when you are taking landscape shots, or group photos!
    Nikon D70s
    Nikkor 50mm 1.8D (If you don't have it you need it)
    Nikkor 18-200mm VR II
    SB-600
    Bogen/Manfrotto Tripods/Heads
    NAS (D300, Nikkor 80-200mm (or 70-200mm)f/2.8, Tamron 90mm Macro)

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    385
    Quote Originally Posted by rawpaw18 View Post
    Just came back from my sons game, our gym is an abyss, lighting wise.
    So far the gyms have had decent lighting. Some are more yellow than not, and this last one I shot at was dimmer than our home gym. The one I'm shooting at tomorrow night is brandspankin' new so hopefully the light will be decent.

    If not, I'll adjust, lol. Whew! I've learned more in the last two days than in the last 6 months.
    CJ


    Nikon D90, 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S, DX Zoom-Nikkor, 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor, 55-200mm f/4-5.6G AF-S DX VR, Induro AT-214 w/DM-12 ballhead, SB-800, SB-600 + diffuser, Light stand and umbrella, Hoya Polarizing Filter 52mm, Lowepro Slingshot 200 AW, and Lowepro Nova 170 AW for daily carry around


    My FlickR account

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    33
    Hi,
    I have had a lot of success taking indoor basketball pictures this season. I shoot anywhere from 7-12 games per week, as I have three kids who play from college level down to junior high. I use a D-40 and I have it set on manual, 1/125 at ISO 1600. I usually use my 55-200 mm VR lens, so my aperature varies with how hard I am zoomed in on the action. Remember, how many good shots do you actually need of a game? If you are a scrapper, you're only going to get 3-4 4"x6" shots on a 12x12 page. So by taking a lot of pics, you're going to get what you need eventually. Get closer to the action. You may have to sit in the front row or 2 and that helps with the light problem as well. When I pp, I use b&w on my shots that are little on the blurry side. I think b&w lends itself to a softer look; I have saved many shots that weren't tack sharp that way. Remember to adjust your WB as well. Try and do a custom setting while the players are going through warm-ups. Instead of panning, try to set up the shot where you know the action is going to be (under the hoop, at center court, etc.). Then sit back and wait for the sction to come to you. Sorry so lengthy!

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