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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    901
    Quote Originally Posted by Camerajunkie View Post
    Tonight I decided to try my 50mm out with it stopped all the way down. I didn't think a flash would do much good and the gym we were at has worse lighting then ours. A LOT of the pictures are just too blurry to use. A lot have part of the girl in focus with the rest of her blurred.
    You should not have the lens stoped down all the way. It should be opened up to let as much light in to have the fastest shutter speed possible.

    By saying a "part of the girl in focus with the rest of her blurred", it leads me to believe you are getting motion blur, meaning you do not have a fast enough shutter speed. Open up your aperture so that you can have a faster shutter speed. This should decrease/eliminate this type of blur.

    Try shuttter priority mode with a fast shutter speed. I normally use a minimum shutter speed of 1/250s(often faster if possible) for sports photos.

    Ray.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    1,148
    --- adding a bit more.... at the expense of possibly sounding condescending... You probably already know this---

    I use manual mode (no auto-ISO either). RAW will allow you a bit more flexibility in Post

    Assuming Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 - With the following:
    Manual exposure
    Aperture = f/1.8 (on 50mm) (shallow depth of field... but you can't do much about this)
    SS = 1/250

    Set ISO to 800. Take a test shot. Look at the histogram to see how your exposure was. Adjust your ISO to achieve as good exposure as you can.

    This will be your baseline. When you review your shots at some break in the game, zoom in to see if you are minimizing the motion blur... If you are, flirt with slower shutter speed to enable you to drop the ISO, if you are getting too much motion blur then Up your ISO and Shutterspeed.

    After loading them on your computer, decide what adjustments need to be made next week!
    Nikon D70s
    Nikkor 50mm 1.8D (If you don't have it you need it)
    Nikkor 18-200mm VR II
    SB-600
    Bogen/Manfrotto Tripods/Heads
    NAS (D300, Nikkor 80-200mm (or 70-200mm)f/2.8, Tamron 90mm Macro)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    385
    That's right, the f-stop thing is backwards. Yes, I stopped up.... (Now I sound like I have a cold.)
    CJ


    Nikon D90, 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S, DX Zoom-Nikkor, 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor, 55-200mm f/4-5.6G AF-S DX VR, Induro AT-214 w/DM-12 ballhead, SB-800, SB-600 + diffuser, Light stand and umbrella, Hoya Polarizing Filter 52mm, Lowepro Slingshot 200 AW, and Lowepro Nova 170 AW for daily carry around


    My FlickR account

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    385
    Quote Originally Posted by tcadwall View Post
    --- adding a bit more.... at the expense of possibly sounding condescending... You probably already know this---

    I use manual mode (no auto-ISO either). RAW will allow you a bit more flexibility in Post

    Assuming Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 - With the following:
    Manual exposure
    Aperture = f/1.8 (on 50mm) (shallow depth of field... but you can't do much about this)
    SS = 1/250

    Set ISO to 800. Take a test shot. Look at the histogram to see how your exposure was. Adjust your ISO to achieve as good exposure as you can.

    This will be your baseline. When you review your shots at some break in the game, zoom in to see if you are minimizing the motion blur... If you are, flirt with slower shutter speed to enable you to drop the ISO, if you are getting too much motion blur then Up your ISO and Shutterspeed.

    After loading them on your computer, decide what adjustments need to be made next week!

    You aren't being condescending at all. Actually what you said helps a lot. I'm one of those weird people who can't read it in a book and figure it out, I need someone else to tell me how to do it. If that makes any sense.

    I think I have a clue of what might be going on and will fiddle with settings to see what I can get.

    And I apologize about the confusion on my F-stop. I was at 1.8. Any smaller and it wouldn't take the picture at all.
    CJ


    Nikon D90, 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S, DX Zoom-Nikkor, 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor, 55-200mm f/4-5.6G AF-S DX VR, Induro AT-214 w/DM-12 ballhead, SB-800, SB-600 + diffuser, Light stand and umbrella, Hoya Polarizing Filter 52mm, Lowepro Slingshot 200 AW, and Lowepro Nova 170 AW for daily carry around


    My FlickR account

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    901
    You know what they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. If you post an example photo, we can pull the exif information from it to see what the ISO, shutter speed and aperture was for the photo. That way someone can help you without any misunderstanding or having to ask for all of this information. What ISO were you shooting, what shutter speed were you shooting, what aperture were you shooting? When you say you were using a zoom, was it an f/2.8 zoom? All of this information is helpful, otherwise people are just shooting blind trying to guess what circumstances the photos were blurry/out of focus.

    Ray.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    385
    Didn't use a zoom. Used my 50mm f/1.8 stopped at 1.8.

    Here's a pic from the game:



    Details are:

    File Name: DSC_0117.jpg (rename)


    Taken With: NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D50
    File Size: 209 kb - 800x532
    Taken On: 2008:01:28 20:56:08
    Camera Make: NIKON CORPORATION
    Camera Model: NIKON D50
    Date/Time: 2008:01:28 20:56:08
    Resolution: 800 x 532
    Flash Used: No Focal Length: 50.0mm (35mm equivalent: 75mm...
    Exposure Time: 0.025 s (1/40)
    Aperture: f/1.8
    Whitebalance: Auto
    Metering Mode: matrix
    Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)


    So I can tell I need to reset my shutter speed. Gah, I feel like an idiot amongst y'all.
    Last edited by Camerajunkie; 01-29-2008 at 04:00 PM. Reason: Add exif data
    CJ


    Nikon D90, 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S, DX Zoom-Nikkor, 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor, 55-200mm f/4-5.6G AF-S DX VR, Induro AT-214 w/DM-12 ballhead, SB-800, SB-600 + diffuser, Light stand and umbrella, Hoya Polarizing Filter 52mm, Lowepro Slingshot 200 AW, and Lowepro Nova 170 AW for daily carry around


    My FlickR account

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    901
    Quote Originally Posted by Camerajunkie View Post
    Didn't use a zoom. Used my 50mm f/1.8 stopped at 1.8.

    Details are:

    File Name: DSC_0117.jpg (rename)


    Taken With: NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D50
    File Size: 209 kb - 800x532
    Taken On: 2008:01:28 20:56:08
    Camera Make: NIKON CORPORATION
    Camera Model: NIKON D50
    Date/Time: 2008:01:28 20:56:08
    Resolution: 800 x 532
    Flash Used: No Focal Length: 50.0mm (35mm equivalent: 75mm...
    Exposure Time: 0.025 s (1/40)
    Aperture: f/1.8
    Whitebalance: Auto
    Metering Mode: matrix
    Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)


    So I can tell I need to reset my shutter speed. Gah, I feel like an idiot amongst y'all.
    What you have here is a photo at 1/40s shot at 200ISO at f/1.8.

    For indoor sports, you are going to have to increase the ISO to at least 800, probably 1600. Looking at your photo, you could have gotten the same exposure at

    1/320s(1/40 -> 1 stop = 1/80 -> 2 stops = 1/160 -> 3stops = 1/320)
    1600 ISO(200 -> 1 stop = 400 -> 2 stops = 800 -> 3 stops = 1600)

    so if you set your shutter speed at 1/250s and your ISO to 1600, your camera would have stopped down your aperture a little from f/1.8 to get the same exposure.

    With indoor sports shots at ISO1600, though, you will have some noise in your photos when compared to ISO200, but they should be usable.

    Ray.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    385
    Where does it say what the ISO was? Or did you go and find it? Sorry...

    There are times I think I'm too tired and too busy to learn photography but I really enjoy it.

    And one more idiot question... The ISO settings I have are 200, 400, 800, and 1600 under Apeture priority setting. Would that mean I need to shoot in a different setting and then I would have more ISO options?
    Last edited by Camerajunkie; 01-29-2008 at 04:57 PM.
    CJ


    Nikon D90, 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S, DX Zoom-Nikkor, 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor, 55-200mm f/4-5.6G AF-S DX VR, Induro AT-214 w/DM-12 ballhead, SB-800, SB-600 + diffuser, Light stand and umbrella, Hoya Polarizing Filter 52mm, Lowepro Slingshot 200 AW, and Lowepro Nova 170 AW for daily carry around


    My FlickR account

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    901
    I opened up your photo in Opanda IExif which listed the ISO as 200.

    Ray.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Windy Wyoming, USA
    Posts
    2,605
    Quote Originally Posted by Camerajunkie View Post
    The ISO settings I have are 200, 400, 800, and 1600 under Apeture priority setting. Would that mean I need to shoot in a different setting and then I would have more ISO options?
    Nope, the ONLY ISO settings on the D50 are 200, 400, 800, and 1600. Shooting in Aperture priority is probably not the way to go though, because it will slow down your shutter speed in order to get a proper exposure. You might already understand this from the previous posts, but I'd suggest you put your camera on manual and use the settings that tcadwall suggested. Then review the pics on the LCD, and if they look at all over-exposed, lower the ISO.

    By the way, that shot looks a lot better than most of the indoor sports shots I've tried
    Nikon D50, Nikkor 18-55mm, Nikkor 50mm 1.8, Sigma 70-300mm APO DG Macro, Tokina 12-24
    Flickr

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