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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
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    324

    Sigma 10mm or Sigma 10-20mm?

    im looking for a ultra wide angle lens, HSM in paticular since i have the d40 and i've come to these two lenses. the 10mm is a fisheye and the 10-20mm is an ultra wide angle zoom.


    can some one help me out deciding which to buy?
    ill be shooting bands, mostly low light.

    thanks!
    call me dylan.

    nikon d40
    nikon 18-55mm
    nikon 35mm f1.8
    nikon 50mm f1.8d
    sigma 17-35 f2.8-4
    nikon sb600
    sto-fen omnibounce
    promaster ttl cable

    flickr

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    London
    Posts
    1,887

    depends what you are looking for?

    The 10mm will give very distorted pictures which are cool but you might end up wishing you had a normal view. see here
    The 10-20 (which i own) is amazing as far as I am concerned and if you ever want the fisheye effect you can recreate it in photoshop.

    However, the f2.8 is obviously faster than the 10-20 lens. I would recommend the 10-20 tho.

    See here
    Nikon D700
    Sigma 70-200 F2.8
    Sigma 85mm F1.4
    Sigma 15-30 F3.5 - 4.5



    http://www.philipduartephotography.com

    "It's better to be hurt by the truth than comforted by a lie"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Maryland's Eastern Shore
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    2,143
    I think you would find the 10-20 more useful. the fisheye might be cool
    for a while but I think its uses would be limited. Maybe there is a program that can make your photos fisheye-like, in which case you could get the best of both worlds. Just use your flash for your band shots.
    - Rich

    Nikon: D50, 18-70mm, 50mm, 70-200vr
    Kenko: 12mm, 20mm, 36mm Ext Tubes
    Manfrotto: 486RC2
    Benro: A-327 tripod


    My Flickr Photos Here

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Delfgauw, The Netherlands
    Posts
    2,207
    You cannot create a fisheye image with a program, because 10mm fisheye has a considerably larger angle of view (180 degrees diagonally) than a rectilinear 10mm lens (like the 10-20). You can create the effect by adding a lot of barrel correction, but you cannot get as wide a view.

    The other way around is possible, you can easily take a fisheye image and remove the barrel distortion and crop the image a little to get a regular image.
    This has a couple of downsides, though. First of all, the image quality after 'defishing' is worse, especially on the edges of the frame. Secondly, you have less control over the composition since you will loose parts in post processing. Finally, a fisheye does not allow you to use filters (except possibly gelatin filters on the back of the lens - the effect of which is very
    easy to mimic in postprocessing).

    Ask yourself what you like most. Real wideangle shots or the cool fisheye effect. If you want the first, the 10-20 is the way to go. If you want the fisheye effect, you should go for the fisheye.

    While I think that the 10-20 is great lens that is well worth the money, given your use (shooting bands) I might actually go for the fisheye.

    First of all, you will be shooting in lowlight. The f/2.8 of the fisheye can come in very handy. F/4 on the 10-20 is not too bad for static subjects (since you can handhold up to 1/10s), but when there is movement this is too slow.

    Also, I find that using the 10-20 on people often gives bad results. You will easily distort the face making people look ugly. The perspective will give people a very big nose. It can be done, but you have to be very careful with your composition. I don't think it is very practicle to shoot bands.
    A fisheye on the other hand does not distort the perspective as much. I know this may seem odd, given the fact that it makes all straight lines curved. People's faces will look more natural with a fisheye than with a wide angle lens.

    You have to be very close to the band to take pictures with a fisheye (though this goes for a wide angle lens too). If this is not possible, you will be better off picking a fast zoom or a fast prime between 20 and 30mm. If you can get close, a fisheye can give you amazing images.
    Nikon D-50
    // Nikkor 70-300 f/4-5.6 VR // Nikkor 50 mm f/1.8
    // Sigma 17-70 f/2.8-4.5 ...// Nikon SB-600
    // Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6......// Nikon Series E 135 mm f/2.8
    // Kiron 105 f/2.8 Macro....// Manfrotto 190XPROB + 488RC4
    // Nikkor 35 f/1.8..........// Sigma 500 mm f/8

    My website: http://www.dennisdolkens.nl

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Chicago, IL USA
    Posts
    935
    I think, depending on the venue and lighting, that even F/2.8 will be too slow for bands.

    If you do a search for NickCanada in the Canon forum, you will see he shoots with a 35/1.4 at 3200 ISO pretty often. The shots come out really nice, but look how far he has to go in order to get those results. I think an F/2.8 lens, which is 2 stops slower than the 1.4, will probably be too slow for many concerts and many of your photos will have motion blur. Now the blur may be a cool effect, but I certainly wouldn't want it to be the only way to get the shot.

    What lens are you currently using for your shots? How low is the light? Do you want to be shooting at ISO1600 all the time?

    If it were me, and I had the D40, I would probably look at the Sigma 30/1.4 for concert photography.
    Nikon D300 | MB-D10 | Nikkor 12-24/4 | Nikkor 50/1.8 | Nikkor 70-200/2.8 VRI | Sigma 18-50/2.8 | SB-800 | SB-80DX (x4) | Radiopopper JrX Studio |

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    324
    right now im using the kit lens for my shooting.
    not bad results but i find the 50mm is too "long" and certaintly isnt wide enough.
    most of the time im either on stage with the band or right in front of them inside a barricade.
    call me dylan.

    nikon d40
    nikon 18-55mm
    nikon 35mm f1.8
    nikon 50mm f1.8d
    sigma 17-35 f2.8-4
    nikon sb600
    sto-fen omnibounce
    promaster ttl cable

    flickr

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