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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    331
    First two are ISO 1600 @ 300mm 500/2.8
    Third one is ISO 3200 @ 274mm 500/2.8
    All with 40D and Sigma 120-300

    Exposure was pushed 2 stops in PP, noise reduction, fill light and sharpening.
    I could run them thur Noise Ninja for better noise reduction but that's only if someone is adventurous enough to want to buy these.

    The poorest lit field I've ever shot on. Any worse and you're playing in house lamps.
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    ChrisVLinton.com - my Glamour and non-sports site
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  2. #62
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    4,498
    Quote Originally Posted by chrisl View Post
    First two are ISO 1600 @ 300mm 500/2.8
    Third one is ISO 3200 @ 274mm 500/2.8
    All with 40D and Sigma 120-300

    Exposure was pushed 2 stops in PP, noise reduction, fill light and sharpening.
    I could run them thur Noise Ninja for better noise reduction but that's only if someone is adventurous enough to want to buy these.

    The poorest lit field I've ever shot on. Any worse and you're playing in house lamps.
    Amazing captures given the conditions, but it nicely illustrates a point I tried to make earlier in the thread.

    To those who think you can get quality sports action shots at night at slower shutter speeds, shot number 1, even at 1/500, shows noticeable motion blur and/or camera shake blur. Even though you can get lucky going a little slower, you have to go to at least 1/640 to be sure.

    Chris, I hope you don't mind that I used one of your shots to illustrate the point. Great work that must have required a lot of patience!
    Last edited by JTL; 10-07-2007 at 11:38 AM.
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  3. #63
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    331
    JTL, no problem.
    At 500 you will stop the main part of the body but you will get motion blur at the hands and feet, and the ball.
    I think to stop everything you need at least 640 and then the ball will probably still show motion blur.
    And your distance to subject is dramatically reduced, typically to about 20 yards or so.
    ChrisVLinton.com - my Glamour and non-sports site
    sportsNaction.com - my sports site
    My Gear list

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Dallas, Texas
    Posts
    3,209
    these pictures are shot without flash. you will leave a bit of a trail from the motion blur, but that burst of flash will sharpen it and freeze motion WAY more than a shot taken without.

    50mm 1/15s imagine if this shot was taken without flash...


    and yea i know, not the BEST example...but seriously though, next week i'll see if i can't find a place to go shoot some high school football with 1/250s...or maybe i'll quit being lazy and find some examples online.
    40d | 5d mk II | 2.8/16 zenitar fisheye | 16-35L | 35L | sigma 1.4/50 | sigma 2.8/50 Macro | sigma 1.4/85 | 70-200L IS
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    disclaimer: posts are for personal entertainment only...not to be taken seriously...ever.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1

    stopping action at 1/100

    it will stop the action but if you dont have a monopod it will not be clear here is a illustration of mine it was shot under low light at 1/100th. if i was you i would shoot at at least 1/250 or even 1/500 if you can get it that high without it being to dark. Oh and i found a awesome program a few pictures were dark for me and i used this program and theyturned out pretty good its call bibble pro it will remove noise also look into it.

    kevin
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