1st dSLR pics

[r3g]

So i walked into best buy this morning ready to finally buy my 1st dSLR. I had my mind set on the XTi but after playing with it and the D40 for about an hour I realized how much more i like the D40 so i got it and i love it. I was so excited to get it home and play i ended up doing a wheelie out of the parking lot lol. So i get home open her up pop the lens on and start shooting inside and outside because i dont feel like going somewhere to shoot today. Did a lot of braketing figuring out what F-stop and shutter speed to use in what situations. I love how the F-stop and shutter speed is at my finger tips if i need to change them. Im amazed on how clear and sharp indoor shots are without flash.. Im never using a point and shoot again! Time to start shoping for a good tripod and other accessories. I think im going to hold off on getting lenses until im more at home with the camera. Here are what i think are the best of the 20 or so pictures i took, all taken in JPEG Fine Imported with Lightroom and resized with CS2. Please give tips on what I may have did wrong, or could have done better. In a couple of these i had trouble picking which one looked better (with a 1 step difference).



18mm
F10
1/10 sec.
ISO800
Spot Metering




My Livingroom
18mm
F3.5
1/10 sec.
ISO800



Flowers In Backyard
18mm
F11
1/160
ISO200
Spot Metering



Bike Exhaust
18mm
F11
1/160 sec.
ISO200
Spot Metering

[r3g]

The Dog All Same Settings
46mm
F8
1/320 sec.
ISO200
Spot Metering






Tree
18mm
F8
1/200
ISO200
Spot Metering






My only issue is im having trouble updating the firmware. When i connect it to my comp it says connecting to pc on the LCD but it never goes past that point.

[wutske]

It might be me (not being used to my new laptop screen), but most of the pictures look overexposed. Eg. dogshot n° 1, the right side of men's best friend doesn't have any detail, it's just a big white spot. Try using a faster shutter speed (or a bigger f-value).
On the other hand, try play a bit with lower f-values to get a nice depth of field effect.

[zmikers]

I'm going to have to agree. I think your shots are just a little overexposed. In the wine bottle shot, the table is washed out. Other than that, great start mate. Congrats and keep shooting, and posting too

[r3g]

ill try going 1-2 steps lower on the f-stop next time

[SpecialK]

Hi ReG_00

A nice start. Most the images say "spot metering". I wonder if that is really true? That is normally used to measure a small area, such as a single color in tricky lighting. For a metering off white, you would generally expose +2 stops. For black, it's -2, etc.

I also think most images are a tad overexposed (maybe 1/2 stop), and I wonder if "spot metering" may be a contributing factor?

For images that are a mix of dark and light, a broader area for metering may be fine. Spot metering, full frame metering - actually any metering - requires the same though process - Is the meter being fooled and if so, how should I compensate?

Additionally, your camera may just expose a bit light or dark, as some do. Not sure if there is auto exposure bracketing with the D40 (?), but even if you have to do it manually at first for a day, take some general pictures at the meter reading, then essentially the same shot at -1/2 and +1/2 compensation. Assuming your monitor is close to accurate, just browse through the images and pick out the "best" of the triplicates that seem properly exposed. Then compare the exif info for the exposure compensation and see if they don't tend to be in the same group.

Finally, check the corners of the shot. Is something sticking into it that should not be there - like a broom handle, or does it need something - like a tree branch, for framing. Finally, unless you are doing something "special", try to keep the horizon or other lines pointed in the right direction.

Specifically...

Black bottle on white table has the tone extremes and is "difficult" to get perfectly perfect, even by pros.

Same problem with black furniture and blasting white windows.

White dogs are backlit (shadows are nearer to you) so correctly exposing for their face (like it seems you did) make the highlights go bye-bye. If the "blown" highlights bother you, you can use a flash for a little fill light, or reflect some light with a big white bounce card held by Vanna White (or clamped to a tripod) or near a light toned wall etc if your subjects don't move around too much.

Sorry if this is a bit basic, and long.

[r3g]

Hi ReG_00

A nice start. Most the images say "spot metering". I wonder if that is really true? That is normally used to measure a small area, such as a single color in tricky lighting. For a metering off white, you would generally expose +2 stops. For black, it's -2, etc.

I also think most images are a tad overexposed (maybe 1/2 stop), and I wonder if "spot metering" may be a contributing factor?

For images that are a mix of dark and light, a broader area for metering may be fine. Spot metering, full frame metering - actually any metering - requires the same though process - Is the meter being fooled and if so, how should I compensate?

Additionally, your camera may just expose a bit light or dark, as some do. Not sure if there is auto exposure bracketing with the D40 (?), but even if you have to do it manually at first for a day, take some general pictures at the meter reading, then essentially the same shot at -1/2 and +1/2 compensation. Assuming your monitor is close to accurate, just browse through the images and pick out the "best" of the triplicates that seem properly exposed. Then compare the exif info for the exposure compensation and see if they don't tend to be in the same group.

Finally, check the corners of the shot. Is something sticking into it that should not be there - like a broom handle, or does it need something - like a tree branch, for framing. Finally, unless you are doing something "special", try to keep the horizon or other lines pointed in the right direction.

Specifically...

Black bottle on white table has the tone extremes and is "difficult" to get perfectly perfect, even by pros.

Same problem with black furniture and blasting white windows.

White dogs are backlit (shadows are nearer to you) so correctly exposing for their face (like it seems you did) make the highlights go bye-bye. If the "blown" highlights bother you, you can use a flash for a little fill light, or reflect some light with a big white bounce card held by Vanna White (or clamped to a tripod) or near a light toned wall etc if your subjects don't move around too much.

Sorry if this is a bit basic, and long.

thanks for the info. i actually took that wine picture at F8 through F13 and while looking at them the F10 looked the best. After you guys mentioned it was over exposed i went back and looked at the F11 and F13 version of it and they just seemed like they were too dark. maybe its because im attracted bright pictures. here are the F13 versions, cant find the 11. I can see how the table shows better but the bottle now looks too dark and a lot of the reflection is gone. Cant look at the F11 because i think i deleted it but im guessing that much have been the keeper. But like i said i think its because i like bright and shinny.. ill work on getting the exposure down.

[SpecialK]

Hi ReG:

The exposure looks much better. This is where using a large piece of white "foam core" (sort of a foam/carboard sheet) would be handy to bounce some light back onto the black bottle and lighten the label.

[r3g]

what do you guys think of the same F10 exposure but with the right side cropped off.. the bottle is still shinny but there isnt a crapload of white raping your eyes, and the left side cut so the bottle is still centered?

[SpecialK]

Reg:

If you need a bottle shot, reshoot it without the distracting background, and with more-balanced lighting.

This one is not worth resusitating. Just..let it go :-)