neutral density filters.....OT

[adam75south]

i'm thinking about getting a 2 or 3 stop neutral density filter for a couple of reasons. for one, i'm barely able to get to f/5.6 with my studio lights and this will allow me to use 2.8. and the same for outdoor sports, i can use the 2.8 and slow down the shutter speed to show more movement and keep the shallow depth of field..

i guess my question is...how much do these lower image quality? what's the difference between the super expensive multi coated $200 filters and the $40 nd filters? and would any of you advise using this to get a larger aperture in studio portraiture?

thanks in advance.

[Sungrazer]

You see people using ND filters for slowing down motion but it seems like not as many people think to use it to control depth of field. The only filters I've seen that cost $200 or more are polarizers. You can get a good Singh-Ray ND filter for $100. I guess any time there's an extra piece of glass in front of the lens, you risk some IQ drop, but Singh-Rays are supposedly good - and supposedly truly neutral as well. You might get a color cast with some cheaper filters. But I'm not speaking from experience, so I defer to the others here on your IQ question.

For those with deep pockets, Singh-Ray makes a variable ND filter - from 2 to 8 stops. 77mm only, regular and wide angle mounts available. I'd like to get my hands on one of those.

Edit: The only problem with the Singh-Rays is that they are made for the Cokin filter holders. They're not screw on (except the variable one). So that may not be as convenient for you. My ND filter is the Hoya Pro1 screw on.

[adam75south]

how do you like the pro1 hoya? that's the main one i'm looking at.

i exaggerated a little on the $200 although i'm sure you can find em if you look for em.

[Sungrazer]

I haven't used it enough to say. I got it for all the multicoating and because I can use it on my 10-22 if I want. If there's a test you'd like me to do, let me know.

Oh, if you have a polarizer, it can act as a two stop ND filter, so consider getting a three or more stop one for more options.

[adam75south]

I haven't used it enough to say. I got it for all the multicoating and because I can use it on my 10-22 if I want. If there's a test you'd like me to do, let me know.

Oh, if you have a polarizer, it can act as a two stop ND filter, so consider getting a three or more stop one for more options.

thanks alot, maybe i'll just get a good circular polarizer.

[noyjimi]

i'm thinking about getting a 2 or 3 stop neutral density filter for a couple of reasons. for one, i'm barely able to get to f/5.6 with my studio lights and this will allow me to use 2.8. and the same for outdoor sports, i can use the 2.8 and slow down the shutter speed to show more movement and keep the shallow depth of field..

i guess my question is...how much do these lower image quality? what's the difference between the super expensive multi coated $200 filters and the $40 nd filters? and would any of you advise using this to get a larger aperture in studio portraiture?

thanks in advance.

adam if your lights are giving you "trouble" there is another route which is to get an nd gel for them. this way you won't affect the iq of your lens if you're concerned bout that. and they should be much cheaper than a lens filter.

but if you're going the cpol route, you already know this, but cpol will cause banding if doing wide angle (so it wouldn't be quite the same as a real nd in that regard) and try to get a 77mm or so and use step up rings for the smaller sizes so you don't have to keep buying one for each different sized lens

[Sungrazer]

but if you're going the cpol route, you already know this, but cpol will cause banding if doing wide angle (so it wouldn't be quite the same as a real nd in that regard) and try to get a 77mm or so and use step up rings for the smaller sizes so you don't have to keep buying one for each different sized lens

When you say 'banding', do you mean that, for example, the sky might be bluer in one part of the frame than the other because polarization varies with the angle from the sun?

Also, Adam, the next time you shoot, you may want to note how many stops you'd like to reduce your shutter speed and determine if two stops is enough, before relying solely on a polarizer. I very nearly bought a six stop B+W because I can foresee times when a three stop won't be enough.

[adam75south]

yea i was wondering that as well. alot of the time at f/2.8 with motorcycle stuff i'll get 1/8000s, guess i need to figure out a good medium...or buy two.

[adam75south]

adam if your lights are giving you "trouble" there is another route which is to get an nd gel for them. this way you won't affect the iq of your lens if you're concerned bout that. and they should be much cheaper than a lens filter.

but if you're going the cpol route, you already know this, but cpol will cause banding if doing wide angle (so it wouldn't be quite the same as a real nd in that regard) and try to get a 77mm or so and use step up rings for the smaller sizes so you don't have to keep buying one for each different sized lens

i was wondering if they made something like that, i'll look into it. the lighting could definitely use a two stop filter.

[adam75south]

fyi, i got a brand new hoya pro1 super multi coated filter that normally goes for $225 on adorama.....or $128.50!!! on ebay! i'll be posting up pictures with it when i get it.