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  1. #5731
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Chicago
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    1,292

    Camera Model: NIKON D70
    Image Date: 2004:06:02 14:43:57
    Focal Length: 70.0mm (35mm equivalent: 105mm)
    Exposure Time: 0.0063 s (1/160)
    Aperture: f/7.1
    Last edited by Rasidel Slika; 06-25-2008 at 12:46 AM.
    rasidel slika . flickr . gallery . deviantart . facebook . smugmug
    5D / 7D / 17-40 f4.0L / 24-70 f2.8L / 200 f2.8L / 50 f2.5 macro / Sigma 50 1.4 / Tamron 10-24 / Tamron 28-300 VC / 580EXII x2
    Nikon D70 . 18-70 . 70-300 . SB-600 / Panasonic GF-1 . 20 1.7 / Nikon Coolpix E4500 / iphone 4

  2. #5732
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    God's Country - Australia
    Posts
    10,424
    Quote Originally Posted by bgrablin View Post
    i take them all in RAW+JPEG fine.

    My settings were:
    ISO 800 (to capture the blades)
    f/5.6
    1/1000 sec
    0.0 EV
    3D Color Matrix II
    Auto Focus
    Natural Density - 4

    Whatever you did to that photo is what I am going for. Was it just some dodge and burn action in PP? That's what I am going for. Simply Brilliant.
    hmmm...you'll need to explain that logic to me. you increased your iso by 4 stops but also used a 4 stop filter to drop your exposure by 4 stops. so effectively, you've negated the iso and the filter. does that make sense ?

    in super bright conditions you are far better off using iso100 cos your shutter speeds look high enough. maybe use iso 200, (or even auto iso using 1/1000s as your min shutter speed), just to be sure.

    the other issues i see with using iso 800:

    1. even though you dont get alot of noise given the conditions, you comprimise your dynamic range by a couple of stops, so theres some of your contrast/ colour loss right there.

    2. iso refers to the sesnitivity to light your sensor has. so this in effect will always blow the lighter colours just that little bit too much. and more to the point, the lighter shades of colour will move even further right of the histogram, creating even less contrast.

    couple those 2 things with the fact that matrix metering on the d80 overexposes by a third to 2/3rds of a stop and you have a recipe for overexposure and dull colours.

    aswell as dropping your iso and dropping your exposure back by -0.7EV, i'd also be looing at shooting the d80 in colour mode IIIa just for kicks. if you shoot it in raw, you an always change back. this colour mode is a high contrast, saturated colour mode that will give you a dynamic s curve in contrast in-cam.

    give it a go and make sure you experiment a little. the only way to learn is to throw a few different things at it and seeing what works best.

    btw: for that adjustment i used Capture NX. i simply added 3 colour control points. 1 to the sky to increase saturation, one to the chopper to increase brightness and 1 to the ground to decrease brightness and increase saturation. the whole process took around 15 seconds. no layers. very very simple process.

    look forward to a heap more of your shots.
    D800e l V3 l AW1 l 16-35 l 35 l 50 l 85 l 105 l EM1 l 7.5 l 12-40 l 14 l 17 l 25 l 45 l 60 l 75
    flickr

  3. #5733
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Posts
    55
    Quote Originally Posted by Rooz View Post
    hmmm...you'll need to explain that logic to me. you increased your iso by 4 stops but also used a 4 stop filter to drop your exposure by 4 stops. so effectively, you've negated the iso and the filter. does that make sense ?

    in super bright conditions you are far better off using iso100 cos your shutter speeds look high enough. maybe use iso 200, (or even auto iso using 1/1000s as your min shutter speed), just to be sure.

    the other issues i see with using iso 800:

    1. even though you dont get alot of noise given the conditions, you comprimise your dynamic range by a couple of stops, so theres some of your contrast/ colour loss right there.

    2. iso refers to the sesnitivity to light your sensor has. so this in effect will always blow the lighter colours just that little bit too much. and more to the point, the lighter shades of colour will move even further right of the histogram, creating even less contrast.

    couple those 2 things with the fact that matrix metering on the d80 overexposes by a third to 2/3rds of a stop and you have a recipe for overexposure and dull colours.

    aswell as dropping your iso and dropping your exposure back by -0.7EV, i'd also be looing at shooting the d80 in colour mode IIIa just for kicks. if you shoot it in raw, you an always change back. this colour mode is a high contrast, saturated colour mode that will give you a dynamic s curve in contrast in-cam.

    give it a go and make sure you experiment a little. the only way to learn is to throw a few different things at it and seeing what works best.

    btw: for that adjustment i used Capture NX. i simply added 3 colour control points. 1 to the sky to increase saturation, one to the chopper to increase brightness and 1 to the ground to decrease brightness and increase saturation. the whole process took around 15 seconds. no layers. very very simple process.

    look forward to a heap more of your shots.
    WOW Rooz, I appreciate all that input. I can't honestly say I had no logic behind the ISO 800. I still for the life of me can't remember why I didn't change it to lower than 400. I'm still a n00b at this.

    I did take all the advice I have gotten thus far and came up with this shot today.

    It wasn't an easy shot because I still have to worry about my own aircraft and it's positioning as well as my aperture, ISO, focus, etc...

    You can't see it, but both aircraft are hovering about 75 feet over water.

    ISO100, f/5.0, 1/1000sec, UV filter.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Nikon D80
    Nikkor 18-135mm AF-S> UV + Polarizer + ND4
    "Nifty Fifty" 1.8D> UV + Hood
    SB-600
    8BG + 4GB + 2GB Class 6 SDHC
    SLIK U-212 Deluxe Tri-Pod - Panoramic Head
    Camera Armor
    Tamrac Adventure 9


    flickr
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  4. #5734
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    2,132
    Rooz, Auto ISO maxes out at 1/125 on the D80. 1/250 on the D300. This doesn't really matter in such bright conditions though since you'll never go that low. To do 1/1000 you would need to use M mode, which I would never do in such bright conditions. The reason being if the camera in a given situation can't drop below your bottom ISO of 100, can't change the aperture and can't use a slower shutter, it has no choice but to underexpose.
    Nikon D300 | Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 | Nikkor AF-S 70-300mm VR | Nikkor AF 35mm f/2 D | SB-600 | Lowepro Voyager C | Lowepro Slingshot 300 AW

    For Sale:
    Nikkor AF 35mm f/2 D - Like New (FX compatible)

    Wish List
    Nikkor AF-S 17-55 f/2.8
    Nikkor AF-S 70-200 f/4 VRII
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    New Tripod

  5. #5735
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    God's Country - Australia
    Posts
    10,424
    sorry VR, you are right. cant use auto iso. anyways...no real need. not looking like the absense of light is the problem. more like the abundance of light. lol

    you're taking these shots while you're FLYING the chopper !! omg...you are batman !lmao
    D800e l V3 l AW1 l 16-35 l 35 l 50 l 85 l 105 l EM1 l 7.5 l 12-40 l 14 l 17 l 25 l 45 l 60 l 75
    flickr

  6. #5736
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    6,926
    Quote Originally Posted by bgrablin View Post
    It wasn't an easy shot because I still have to worry about my own aircraft and it's positioning as well as my aperture, ISO, focus, etc...

    You can't see it, but both aircraft are hovering about 75 feet over water.

    ISO100, f/5.0, 1/1000sec, UV filter.
    So tell us that you didn't use a little radio chatter to set that shot up.

    Great picture.

  7. #5737
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Posts
    55
    2 pilots are in the Kiowa and only one flies at a time. Controls are on both sides. Left seat (me when I'm playing photographer) operates the sight (big ball on top) and the right seater typically maneuvers the aircraft.

    It took quite a bit of radio chatter to set that shot up. As well as a little prior planning.
    Nikon D80
    Nikkor 18-135mm AF-S> UV + Polarizer + ND4
    "Nifty Fifty" 1.8D> UV + Hood
    SB-600
    8BG + 4GB + 2GB Class 6 SDHC
    SLIK U-212 Deluxe Tri-Pod - Panoramic Head
    Camera Armor
    Tamrac Adventure 9


    flickr
    My 8lb8ounce re-born website.

  8. #5738
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    6,926
    So I assume that you are 90 degrees to the other helicopter shooting through an open port side window.

    You must have made an inviting target for them.

  9. #5739
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Terra Australis Incognita
    Posts
    3,873
    Reduce the apperture a bit if you can tolerate a bit slower shutterspeed. You might get a bit sharper result around F8. I use a different consumer level lens but find big improvements in contrast and sharpness from F5 to F8.

    At that angle you're not freezing the rotors so you could get away with the smaller apperture which should give you a little more sharpness.

    Everything is at infinity in that shot so it's best to use your lens' sharpest aperture if there's no other reason not too.

    Love the shot. Your sig says you've got camera armour is that a joke?

    Re the PP. Using capture nx colour control points on that shot is in my opinion a sin because it works on a radius from your control point, not the whole colour as you'd expect. Note the sky's gone blue but lightening towards the edges. You can address it with more control points but frankly why bother.

    Instead use photoshop. Do whats called channel masking. Work from your original Raw if your copy of photoshop will handle it, if not use capture NX to convert your raw to Tiff 16 bit then open that in photoshop.

    Go to channels, select the blue channel, duplicate it, go to threshold or levels on the duplicate blue channel adjust it to get black and white or use the magic wand on the blue channel. It should be super easy to select the sky this way. Save the selection as an "alpha channel" (fancy term for saved selection).

    Click back on the RGB channel (ie the whole image in colour). Load the sky selection you just made, adjust colours using hue, saturation sliders or levels or curves etc. Invert the selection so you have everything but the sky selected adjust contrast of the heli and ground using curves and or unsharp mask. Also with the ground/heli selection have a look at the effect of adjustments>highlight/shadows. Highlights/shadows is a pretty cool adjustment tool but if abused will make your images go all pastel with that HDR look.
    Last edited by Dread Pirate Roberts; 06-25-2008 at 04:32 AM. Reason: suggest a post process
    D800, D300, D90, 24-70 f2.8, 70-200VR f2.8, 300 F4, 105 micro, 16-85VR, 50mm 1.8, Tammy 90 macro, 70-300VR, SB900, 2xSB600, MB-D10, 055XPROB 322RC2. New computers to run photoshop faster. C&C always appreciated. PhotoGallery
    Pressing the shutter is the start of the process - Joe McNally ... Buying the body is the start of the process - Dread Pirate

  10. #5740
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    London
    Posts
    1,887
    Quote Originally Posted by bgrablin View Post
    2 pilots are in the Kiowa and only one flies at a time. Controls are on both sides. Left seat (me when I'm playing photographer) operates the sight (big ball on top) and the right seater typically maneuvers the aircraft.

    It took quite a bit of radio chatter to set that shot up. As well as a little prior planning.
    holy god, your shots are brilliant. have added you as a contact on flickr and am looking forward to seeing the rest. Please put them on here when they are ready!

    well done.
    Nikon D700
    Sigma 70-200 F2.8
    Sigma 85mm F1.4
    Sigma 15-30 F3.5 - 4.5



    http://www.philipduartephotography.com

    "It's better to be hurt by the truth than comforted by a lie"

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