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  1. #14871
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    London
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by Switchblade906 View Post
    I've never shot an HDR image and still really don't know how to. Also I don't know what metering is.

    And what would exposure do with it, is he made it darker the sky would pop more but then the trees and water would not look good and if made lighter the opposite happens.
    Ditto! I could use some pointers on the same subject myself.

  2. #14872
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    London
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Les View Post
    Great grab, Falconest! The lucky ones are always the best ones!



    The trouble with photography is that there hasn't been a camera invented yet that can match the human eye and brain in distinguishing between light and dark areas in a scene (i.e. the camera's dynamic range is inferior to the human perception). So if the camera gets the shady areas right, it tends to overexpose the bright sky, and if the sky is right, the shady/dark areas are underexposed. Modern cameras attempt to overcome this by metering (i.e. measuring the light) in all areas of the frame, and then the user can choose whether to use an average exposure value (matrix metering), give more importance to what's in the centre of the frame (centre weighting), or accurately expose for a small portion of the frame (spot metering). On top of this you can use exposure compensation to brighten or darken the final exposure, usually within a range of +/- 5EV (Exposure Value or 'stops'). Some photographers 'bracket' their shots by taking three photos at pre-determined different exposures -- the camera can do this automatically if the bracket function is selected. It's all very confusing to the novice photographer (and to some older hands as well). In spite of all this, with scenes having a high dynamic range (i.e. very bright and very dark areas), the final result out of the camera can be disappointing. However, as K1W1 said, there are several ways around it.

    One way is to use a circular polarising filter. This works just like polarised lenses in sunglasses, and will darken skies and improve contrast and saturation. It's not suitable for all shots though -- it depends on the prevailing lighting conditions and direction of the sun relative to the shooting position. The first photo below gives you an idea of how it can make a scene look dramatic if the conditions are right.

    Another way is to use software to alter the look of the sky after the photo has been taken. In the second photo below, I used Picasa to add a graduated tint to your original shot. I think you'll agree it does a fair job of improving the overall look of the scene.

    I could go on about HDR (high dynamic range) photography....but perhaps we'll leave that for another day!
    Many thanks for the pointers Sir. I'll be waiting to find out more about HDR.

  3. #14873
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    London
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by AMDnut View Post
    S. Saqib Shams-II

    Thanks for the link for the tripod, I will take a good look at it!

    Noiseware is a program by Imagenomic that I use to remove noise (grain). You can get it here - http://www.imagenomic.com/nwsa.aspx but there are free programs that will do good that are out there.

    I ran yours through it as a sample...

    That's neatly done! Cheers mate.

  4. #14874
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    London
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by AMDnut View Post
    S. Saqib Shams-II - your D3000 is bit of an upgrade from my old D40! The D40 was replaced by Nikon with the D60, then the D60 was replaced by the D3000 so my trusty D40 was a couple generations back! I have a D90 that I cart around a bit but the D40 gets used a lot too. Sometimes more than the D90 as I have the battery grip and 18-105 lens on the D90 so it is a bit heavier.

    The 300mm pic was taken with the Nikon 70-300mm VR lens. It has the Image Stabilization as you noted and is a great addition to my collection. I really like it and am glad that it worked out as I bought it used online. I didn't have the funds for new and KEH had a good deal on a used rated LN- (Like New Minus) for only about 60% the cost of new. It has no scuffs, marks, wear at all, looks new to me and best of all it is working good so far!
    Oh really? ..I thought it was the other way around.
    One needs a lot of courage to buy a used lens over the internet, I guess I had none which is why I ordered a new Sigma 18-250mm Telephoto lens with Optical Stabilization. I expect it to arrive early next week.
    I hope Sigma's OS (Optical Stabilization) is as good as Nikon's VR (Vibration Reduction) though... fingers crossed.

  5. #14875
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    London
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by AMDnut View Post
    Shot yesterday, Nikon D40, Nikkor 35mm f/1.8@f/2...
    This is beautiful!

  6. #14876
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    New York, NY
    Posts
    483
    Wow so much stuff I've been missing! Keep up the great shooting guys!
    Here's one from my latest shots to date.

    Nikon D700 | Nikon D90 | 14-24mm 2.8 | 24-70mm 2.8 | 35mm 1.8 | 50mm 1.4 | 85mm 1.4 | 105mm 2.8 Micro | 70-300mm VR | SB-800s | Tiffen UV Filter, ND and Polarizer set

    "You see, Netherlands is this make-believe place where Peter Pan and Tinkerbell come from."
    Joey Tribbiani


    Visit My Flickin' Flickr Shots | My Blog | My Porto-folio (requires Flash)

  7. #14877
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Apopka, FL
    Posts
    447
    Thats looks nice, id like to see that in color though.
    Sony A33 | Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 II EX DG APO Macro HSM | Sony 30mm f/2.8 DT AF Macro | Tamron SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di LD

    Flickr

  8. #14878
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    39

  9. #14879
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    London
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by Jrb350z View Post
    This has to be the best shot one can ever take! Brilliant stuff mate.
    Nikon D3000
    Nikkor 35mm F1.8G DX
    Nikkor 18-55mm VR
    Sigma 18-250mm OS HSM
    S. Bower 0.42X Wide angle lens
    Yongnuo YN-560, 10m flash extension wire & Neewer Ring-Flash system.

    Minolta SRT100X
    Minolta MD Rokkor 45mm f2.0

    Plus, some Macro lenses, tripods and filters.

  10. #14880
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    London
    Posts
    59

    Bluebells

    Name:  DSC_0974s.jpg
Views: 424
Size:  240.9 KB

    Nikon D3000
    Nikkor 18-55mm VR kit
    Focal Length: 55mm
    Shutter Speed: 1/60s
    f/8.0
    ISO: 125
    Nikon D3000
    Nikkor 35mm F1.8G DX
    Nikkor 18-55mm VR
    Sigma 18-250mm OS HSM
    S. Bower 0.42X Wide angle lens
    Yongnuo YN-560, 10m flash extension wire & Neewer Ring-Flash system.

    Minolta SRT100X
    Minolta MD Rokkor 45mm f2.0

    Plus, some Macro lenses, tripods and filters.

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