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  1. #14851
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    London
    Posts
    59

    Mystic river

    Quote Originally Posted by Switchblade906 View Post
    I think for a novice photographer (just like me) you are doing very well, but posting here will make you a much better photographer.
    Thank you so much, I appreciate all the support you guys offer here. It helps alot.

    Name:  DSC_0972s.jpg
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    Nikon D3000 (VR 18-55mm kit)
    Focal length: 20mm
    Shutter Speed: 1/20s
    F/3.8
    ISO: 400

    I don't like how the sky appears hopelessly bright in the picture although it looks pretty decent in its reflection on water. Do you guys reckon usage of a UV filter for this shot?
    Last edited by S. Saqib Shams-II; 05-09-2011 at 04:11 PM.

  2. #14852
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Apopka, FL
    Posts
    447
    I like the reflection on the water of this one, and the green really pops.

    The only thing about this one is that the sky is blown out (all white, no detail) but if you were to have the sky have detail then the trees would have been a lot darker then they are, and the only way to fix that is to shot a HDR photo.

  3. #14853
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Upstate NY USA
    Posts
    796

    Grab shot of the day

    Sometimes you just get lucky.Name:  DSC_7581 Crop Sharp Resize.jpg
Views: 228
Size:  296.3 KB
    Apple Blossoms
    Falconest174
    Seeing the picture starts the process
    D7100, Sigma 150 f/2.8 Macro, Tamron 70-300 Macro, Sigma 17-70 F2.8 Macro,
    Tamron 70-300 Di VC USD 60Th Anniv. ,SB700, SB400, Manfrotto t-pod, monopod
    Facebook:
    http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/rmProvost

  4. #14854
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Apopka, FL
    Posts
    447
    That's a good one, I like the almost all black background yet the flowers still have a lot of detail. Nice shot!

  5. #14855
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    6,832
    Quote Originally Posted by Switchblade906 View Post
    and the only way to fix that is to shot a HDR photo.
    No that's one option but not the only way to resolve the issue.
    More careful metering is an option
    Exposure compensation is another option
    Darkening the sky in pp using a graduated filter for example is also an option
    What the OP needs to get in the habit of doing at the time of shooting is to review the shot using the cameras LCD display (the highlight screen) and check which areas of the image are exposed correctly and which are overexposed (are blinking) then try changing exposure compensation or metering or both or even recomposing the shot to see if the blinkies can be eliminated. A decision should also be made about whether having parts of the image overexposed are really a problem, sometimes they don't matter to the image so why stress about it. If the overexposure can't be rectified in camera then can it be resolved in post? In this case probably yes. If it's not likely to be able to be resolved in post and you really want to capture the scene then HDR is probably the best option left. Obviously if you are a fan of HDR and use it regularly then that may be your first option and in that case it's a valid one.

  6. #14856
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Apopka, FL
    Posts
    447
    I've never shot an HDR image and still really don't know how to. Also I don't know what metering is.

    And what would exposure do with it, is he made it darker the sky would pop more but then the trees and water would not look good and if made lighter the opposite happens.

  7. #14857
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    6,832
    Quote Originally Posted by S. Saqib Shams-II View Post
    I don't like how the sky appears hopelessly bright in the picture although it looks pretty decent in its reflection on water. Do you guys reckon usage of a UV filter for this shot?
    I hope that you don't mind but I had a bit of a quick play with your shot.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  8. #14858
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Adelaide, South Australia
    Posts
    378
    Quote Originally Posted by Falconest174 View Post
    Sometimes you just get lucky.Name:  DSC_7581 Crop Sharp Resize.jpg
Views: 228
Size:  296.3 KB
    Apple Blossoms
    Great grab, Falconest! The lucky ones are always the best ones!

    Quote Originally Posted by S. Saqib Shams-II View Post

    Name:  DSC_0972s.jpg
Views: 215
Size:  246.2 KB

    I don't like how the sky appears hopelessly bright in the picture although it looks pretty decent in its reflection on water. Do you guys reckon usage of a UV filter for this shot?
    The trouble with photography is that there hasn't been a camera invented yet that can match the human eye and brain in distinguishing between light and dark areas in a scene (i.e. the camera's dynamic range is inferior to the human perception). So if the camera gets the shady areas right, it tends to overexpose the bright sky, and if the sky is right, the shady/dark areas are underexposed. Modern cameras attempt to overcome this by metering (i.e. measuring the light) in all areas of the frame, and then the user can choose whether to use an average exposure value (matrix metering), give more importance to what's in the centre of the frame (centre weighting), or accurately expose for a small portion of the frame (spot metering). On top of this you can use exposure compensation to brighten or darken the final exposure, usually within a range of +/- 5EV (Exposure Value or 'stops'). Some photographers 'bracket' their shots by taking three photos at pre-determined different exposures -- the camera can do this automatically if the bracket function is selected. It's all very confusing to the novice photographer (and to some older hands as well). In spite of all this, with scenes having a high dynamic range (i.e. very bright and very dark areas), the final result out of the camera can be disappointing. However, as K1W1 said, there are several ways around it.

    One way is to use a circular polarising filter. This works just like polarised lenses in sunglasses, and will darken skies and improve contrast and saturation. It's not suitable for all shots though -- it depends on the prevailing lighting conditions and direction of the sun relative to the shooting position. The first photo below gives you an idea of how it can make a scene look dramatic if the conditions are right.

    Another way is to use software to alter the look of the sky after the photo has been taken. In the second photo below, I used Picasa to add a graduated tint to your original shot. I think you'll agree it does a fair job of improving the overall look of the scene.

    I could go on about HDR (high dynamic range) photography....but perhaps we'll leave that for another day!
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Nikon D7000 and a bunch of Nikon stuff oh, and some Canon p&s's too

  9. #14859
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    541
    S. Saqib Shams-II

    Thanks for the link for the tripod, I will take a good look at it!

    Noiseware is a program by Imagenomic that I use to remove noise (grain). You can get it here - http://www.imagenomic.com/nwsa.aspx but there are free programs that will do good that are out there.

    I ran yours through it as a sample...
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Nikon D90 & D5100
    Nikon 18-105 VR
    Nikon 35mm f/1.8
    Nikon 50mm f/1.8
    Nikon 55-200 VR
    Nikon 70-300 VR
    f/8 and be there...
    My Flickr

  10. #14860
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    541
    Dread Pirate Roberts - I am really lovin' it!

    Sir Les - I rank this as a fav, right there with my 35mm f/1.8!

    I just need more time to shoot with it....
    Nikon D90 & D5100
    Nikon 18-105 VR
    Nikon 35mm f/1.8
    Nikon 50mm f/1.8
    Nikon 55-200 VR
    Nikon 70-300 VR
    f/8 and be there...
    My Flickr

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