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  1. #1031
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    God's Country - Australia
    Posts
    10,424
    by no means am i a moon expert, i think its a hard thing to get really right and i;m still learning. but i have learnt a fair bit off some other people here recently, (drama in particular.). good settings i have found to use for the moon:

    f8-f16
    more vivid contrast
    1/400-800s, (tripod is ideal but with VR i don't bother using one at this shutter speed.)
    iso 100-400, (no need to use high iso's cos the moon is bright)
    sunlight white balance, (yes, sunlight ! i was surprised to learn this.)
    spot focus
    -0.7ev

    i think most people overexpose the image. the secret is to under expose if anything to show moon detail otherwise its a bit of a white blob.

    lotsa times the moon can start very low in the early evening and this is the best time to take the shot. unfortunately most of my shots are when the moon is at or near its highest point which means you gotta crop more so less sharpness and detail.
    D800e l V3 l AW1 l 16-35 l 35 l 50 l 85 l 105 l EM1 l 7.5 l 12-40 l 14 l 17 l 25 l 45 l 60 l 75
    flickr

  2. #1032
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Delfgauw, The Netherlands
    Posts
    2,207
    Here's a picture of some reed I shot yesterday from a unusual angle.
    Used a polarizer and the Sigma 10-20. The polarizer was set in such a way that I didn't get uneven sky, but did get some enhancements in the colours and contrast of the reed.

    D50, Sigma 10-20
    10mm, f/8, 1/250", ISO200,

    Name:  dcrp-DSC_5458.jpg
Views: 408
Size:  211.9 KB
    Nikon D-50
    // Nikkor 70-300 f/4-5.6 VR // Nikkor 50 mm f/1.8
    // Sigma 17-70 f/2.8-4.5 ...// Nikon SB-600
    // Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6......// Nikon Series E 135 mm f/2.8
    // Kiron 105 f/2.8 Macro....// Manfrotto 190XPROB + 488RC4
    // Nikkor 35 f/1.8..........// Sigma 500 mm f/8

    My website: http://www.dennisdolkens.nl

  3. #1033
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Carlsbad CA
    Posts
    523
    d50
    18-55
    sb600



    Tooken at my buddys band space after they were done. I really liked this picture. So comment and such are open.
    sony A300
    tamron 17-50 2.8
    Sony SAL 11-18
    Sony 35 1.8

  4. #1034
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    10
    Nikon D50
    18-55 Kit Lens
    Auto


  5. #1035
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Portland
    Posts
    8
    D70
    28-80
    f/3.8 1/60sec handheld

    Nikon d70 28-80
    Panasonic FZ5
    Canon SD30

  6. #1036
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    78
    Wanted to test how much detail i can get out of th 70-300

    This is at 270mm, 1/1000 (to stop action), f/14(wanted it sharp for every feature, let me know if I can use larger aperture), -0.7EV (D80 seems to overexpose most of the time, blame it on me not understanding the camera well enuf yet) with ISO 800(this is the sacrifice)

    Handheld

    Last edited by lightinsky; 04-06-2007 at 09:16 PM.
    Nikon D80
    Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 D-AF
    Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 APO DG Macro
    ML-L3, Hoya HMC UV (52mm), Sigma EX UV (58mm)

  7. #1037
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    2,929
    Nice photo, seems a little soft for F14 though. One question, if you feel your camera is over exposing, why did you increase the ISO to 800?
    Jason

    "A coward dies a thousand deaths, a soldier dies but once."-2Pac


    A bunch of Nikon stuff!

  8. #1038
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    78
    Quote Originally Posted by jcon View Post
    Nice photo, seems a little soft for F14 though. One question, if you feel your camera is over exposing, why did you increase the ISO to 800?
    errr.. good qns, jcon,...dont really have a good ans...but here's a methodology i read/invented?? myself... i used manual mode on this, cos i wanted the speed and aperture, used auto ISO to set whatever it want with max of ISO 800. And I think I tried this method on other shots as well, and its a little over exposed, so set the exposure compensation to -0.7 EV.

    Am I doing something wrong, or is there a better way to do it??

    yah..a little soft.... i did crop a bit (would this affect??), and the original is actually a little sharper.. always had trouble uploading
    Nikon D80
    Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 D-AF
    Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 APO DG Macro
    ML-L3, Hoya HMC UV (52mm), Sigma EX UV (58mm)

  9. #1039
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    2,929
    Yeah, cropping can affect it a little, depending on how heavily cropped it is.
    Jason

    "A coward dies a thousand deaths, a soldier dies but once."-2Pac


    A bunch of Nikon stuff!

  10. #1040
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    638
    Quote Originally Posted by lightinsky View Post
    This is at 270mm, 1/1000 (to stop action), f/14(wanted it sharp for every feature
    Is this the new VR lens? I really think F8 is where it's at. I don't think F14 will do anything except possibly make things worse. If the aperture gets too small, it can be just as bad as opening it too much.

    Also, I definitely do not recommend using ISO800 on a bright sunny day. ISO200 is fine, and maybe ISO400 if you feel you need it. Here are the settings I would recommend:

    F8 (this is the sweet spot)
    ISO200 (much cleaner than ISO800)
    Spot metering - Spot metering shouldn't have the exposure (what people think is an) "issue". Spot metering here because you're shooting a white bird. It will help keep the detail in the feathers and you can always brighten it up in PP a little if need be.
    I always use -1/3 EV. But, I never change it, regardless of metering mode (mostly in matrix) and it seems to do fine.

    I personally use Av mode. So does my friend. We constantly check the shutter speed and if it's lacking, then we up the ISO...but, only then.

    Your method actually isn't bad. I think it's just the F14 thing...and ISO800 on what looks to be a fairly bright day.

    Regardless, shooting birds can be a challenge. I've been going at it with my friend for some months now and every time we go out I feel like I do better than before.

    Oh, don't forget AF-C

    And since this is a PoTD thread...This was actually shot on completely different settings, just to show that not every shot requires the same settings...and although I stopped everything at 1/400th, I think 1/1000+ is best to make sure the wing tips don't blur...



    D80 in Av mode | 70-300 @ 300mm | F5.6 | -2/3 EV | 1/400th | ISO100 | Matrix Metering

    P.S. Just noticed you use the Sigma. that's what my friend used. Definitely F8!!
    Last edited by swgod98; 04-06-2007 at 10:01 PM. Reason: Added picture...

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