Flash Attempt Again

Here is another attempt at using the flash. I used my Minolta 50mm with on camera flash.

FrankAttachment 42194

doesn't look washed out. but then again my monitor is old and dark.

good job!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sparkie1263

Here is another attempt at using the flash. I used my Minolta 50mm with on camera flash.

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Exposure is about dead on, Frank. Nice shot!

You might just tone down the saturation, to your taste, but as far as highlights and shadows, it's about perfect. :D

Thanks to everybody here. I can't read the Exif data from the image. I think I took this at iso 400, f/5.6, speed 1/20. I really slowed the speed down.
Frank

Anything under 1/60 sec is no longer using the flash, but begins to pick up the ambient light in the room. That means the golden glow of your incandescents are tainting the image. The longer you are open, the more their effect is noticeable.

You are, in effect, using two sources of light and mixing color balance. One at 5600K and the other at 3200K. In this case, she's baked a little longer, under the 3200K.

Further explanation says:

for 1/60th of a second, you had full flash ... but, for the remaining two-thirds of the shutter being open, you had ambient light and the gradual dimming of the flash filling the sensor. I believe this is called "dragging the shutter", but do not quote me on that.

The flash is synchronized to work on the A100 from 1/60, 1/90, and 1/125. After 1/160, the shutter closes flaster than the flash can propogate and you get some really weird looking effects. In fact, the camera MAY NOT allow you to shoot flash faster than 1/125 with the pop-up.

Is this good or bad?? Should I have increased the speed?
Frank

Frank .. you turned out a relatively nice looking shot. Who am I to contest that? I'm just saying, if you shoot slower than
1/60th, with a flash, you introduce other light into your shot. Some may be desired, but normally, this "extra" light is not
calculated or taken into account, so it usually corrupts the image.

Here is an image taken with the WB set to correspond with outdoor/flash lighting (6000K).

Attachment 42195

Look at the fluorescents inside that trailer. Green! That's because they are burning at about 4400K versus the 6000K WB
this image was shot at. Had I been closer, used the flash inside the trailer, and allowed for a longer shutter speed than
1/60, their effect would have been even more pronounced in the image.

Most images do change significantly when shot under no-flash and then under flash conditions. Obviously, under no-flash
Tungsten (3200K), if no one moves during the exposure, you get basically what your eye would see. When you use flash,
the light source origination point completely changes and is usually on top of your camera. Oh sure, you can bounce
and play games in how you manuever and maniupulate the light, but it still is rarely the same as an ambient light shot.

So ... when you MIX the two, with the drag shutter ... you get shadows in places they normally are ... and then you get
the shadows created by the flash. Personally, I tend to think the images look rather "flat", to be honest.

If you stay above 1/60 ... the flash is crisp ... and not worn down by the ambient light.

Now I am starting to understand all this. The more I shoot and check my settings the more I am learning. The Minolta lens is real nice. I miss the zoom. That is why i think my next lens is the 28-70 f/2.8.
Thanks again
Frank

Frank, this is just my opinion and you can take it for what it is worth, but I do believe that if you are
going to shoot with wider apertures (sub-f/2.8), consider abandoning the flash as your lighting unless
you absolutely cannot take the image any other way. The now wider apertures you have available
to you really accentuate the "hot lighting" (Tungsten) and soften the image, over all. When you are
taking "faces", that really can improve the results. It just not so harsh, like direct flash usually is.
Hence, diffusing panels. I mean, seeing someone's "pores", to me, is not a complimentary portrait.

You have the 50mm f/1.7

Try using settings like:

aperture: f/2.0
speed: 1/10 (you will probably need a tripod for this speed)
ISO: 400
Lighting ... a close-by lamp (Tungsten bulb)
WB: 3200K or "Tungsten" (+/- as necessary)

Model: "Freeze!" or "Hold it!" ... No blinkin'

I feel you are trying to use the 50mm lens like your "tighter" lenses. You have opened a whole new
level of light, that doesn't need flash to work. Now, time is on YOUR side ... you need to get used
to using it.

Good luck! :D

I will try it today.
Thanks
Frank