Some shots from the 50mm
here are a few shots I took the other day to test the lens. They are not the best but they do look pretty good.
Camera Make: SONY
Camera Model: DSLR-A100
Image Date: 2008:11:19 20:15:27
Flash Used: Yes (Manual, red eye reduction mode)
Focal Length: 50.0mm (35mm equivalent: 75mm)
Exposure Time: 0.010 s (1/100)
ISO equiv: 400
White Balance: Auto
Metering Mode: Spot
Exposure Mode: Manual
The # 2 shot is over-exposed (she has lost her facial coloring), Frank, especially when you contrast it against the other two images. I suspect "pop-up flash" is the culprit ... and its ruinous reaction to a lens not having ADI. You never know what you will get with that darn TTL.
I am sure you can appreciate that non-predictability is not the road you want to travel on in photography. Try "bracketing" the shots, indoors ... so you have a few to choose from. It could make a lot of difference.
They look pretty good. Background is a bit dark, might wanna try 1/60 or lower maybe for more lighting in the background. I think you need a hot shoe flash next!
White clothing never seems to be a friend of the flash indoors does it? bet she was happy with the shots though!
while i agree that PUF is not ideal, thats not the main problem here. and there is nothing wrong with the TTL either. the shot is actually underexposed to begin with which is why the flash has worked so hard to provide the light. we've discussed this flash thing before Frank. looks to me like its a good 2-3 stops under. if you want some examples let me know.
iso400, 1/50s, f2 and you would have had a much nicer image. just to repeat why this is necessary...more ambient light means the flash works less, (much less powerful burst of light), to expose the image correctly. if you want more dof then try f4 but you will then have to bump the iso up higher, to say iso800 which is not adviseable on the a100.
Thanks guys I am still trying to get a handle on indoor flash shots. Rooz I did set the iso at 400 like you suggested. I will have to use a slower shutter speed. Don bracketing the shots is something I only remember to do when I am shooting outside in tough light. If I set the flash to Rear would that have helped with the dark background?
Thanks again for the comments
PS Flash is on the list of things to get.
Frank, Rooz is spot on with his advice. You've got a good wide aperture on the lens so don't be afraid to use it.
At its' best flash should be unobtrusive and without hard shadows and dark background. Using a slow shutter sync you can expose for ambient (minus 1 to 2 stops) and then use (preferably) bounced flash to correctly expose the subject.
The techniqes are notoriously difficult to get to grips with, and God knows I'm no expert, but I know someone who is ... http://www.planetneil.com/tangents/f...g-the-shutter/
I believe your camera has a slow sync flash mode with AE lock but I've no experience with it; maybe someone here uses it.
Thanks Peter I will check out the link.
yes, unfortunately though there is no "magical setting" that works for all occasions. it depends on how much or little light there actually is. you should be checking the light meter in your VF as a guide.
Originally Posted by sparkie1263
with PUF you generally dont want the ambient light meter to be anymore than 1 stop underexposed if you can avoid it. in the a100 its called an EV meter by the looks of things and if labelled below.
the further over 1 stop underexposed it is the harder the flash has to work, the more light it pumps out and the more washed out and blasted your subject will appear to be. with an external unit you have much more latitude than that.
so...switch it to manual mode firstly. for indoors with the 50/1.7, i have found the following settings to be a good starting point for balanced flash.
with the a100, iso800 should be desperation stuff only, prefereably max of 640. then you play round with aperture and shutter depending on the situation. ie: if you want a higher shutter speed, you will have to open up the aperture. if you want to stop down the aperture, you will have to drop the shutter speed etc.
it sounds more complicated that what it actually is. the quicker you start though, the qicker you will learn and the difference in your indoor photos will improve dramatically. (well, as much as possible with a PUF anyway).
Thanks for the detailed reply Rooz. I am going to take some shots and test to see what works. I wanted to try to keep the shutter speed up to stop motion blur. I guess I wasn't thinking because at 50mm a speed of 60 should be good. I don't think I can set my iso at odd numbers(500 0r 640).