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Judy
05-22-2005, 09:12 AM
I am very new to this digital stuff. I have a hp photosmart 320 w/ 2.1 MP & 4X zoom now, but it doesn't do what I am lookng for. I would like a cmaera that would take good action shots. I attend concerts on a regular bascis and any shots I take are either dark, blurry {if movement is invovled}. I like to get up close on some shots, like picking out 1 individual in a group, etc. Most still shots taken out in the lobby area turn out good, but the others are mostly bad. I would appreciate any suggestions you may have. Feel free to email me also. judybrannin@aol.com

JTL
05-22-2005, 10:05 AM
I am very new to this digital stuff. I have a hp photosmart 320 w/ 2.1 MP & 4X zoom now, but it doesn't do what I am lookng for. I would like a cmaera that would take good action shots. I attend concerts on a regular bascis and any shots I take are either dark, blurry {if movement is invovled}. I like to get up close on some shots, like picking out 1 individual in a group, etc. Most still shots taken out in the lobby area turn out good, but the others are mostly bad. I would appreciate any suggestions you may have. Feel free to email me also. judybrannin@aol.com The Achilles heel of P&S digital cameras is their inability to capture low-light action effectively. That's because there are either compromises in the ability to shoot cleanly at higher ISO (due to sensor size and design) or compromises relating to the lens speed, especially when zooming. That said, the Fuji F10 has the ability to shoot at up to ISO 1600 with very good results. I haven't seen anyone post low-light action shots with it yet...maybe you should check out the http://www.pbase.com (http://www.pbase.com/) galleries and search on Fuji F10 and see if any good examples show up. But, the truth is, to really get good quality for concert situations, you really need a dSLR and a fast lens....at least that's my opinion...others may disagree...

PhilR.
05-22-2005, 10:25 AM
Well, you mention taking action shots, and then in the next sentence mention taking concert shots. These are two different types of photography - perhaps you want to take shots of moving people at concerts?

If this is the case, then you will need something that will give you the ISO needed to get higher shutter speeds in low light. I would agree with the above and say that the only cameras that will give you consistent satisfactory results will be a dslr.

There is the Fuji F-10, but it's meager 3x zoom will not allow you to get up close and isolate one particular subject. There are many cameras that have the needed zoom, but they won't give you the shutter speed you need. Only a dslr will combine both.

PhilR.

Judy
05-22-2005, 03:10 PM
Thanks for the link JTL, I'll be checking it out.
And Phil, it is the action of the artist on stage that I wish to get. With the camera I have, the pic is all blurry. And I have NO knowledge at all on cameras....that's why I'm in here, to gain some information. :)

PhilR.
05-22-2005, 04:27 PM
it is the action of the artist on stage that I wish to get.

That's what I figured. Your pics are blurry because your camera doesn't have the light sensitivity (measured in ISO # - the higher the number, the more light sensitivity) that it takes to give you the high shutter speed that it takes to freeze moving subjects (OK - a poorly-constructed sentence, but it's Sunday...). In order to get faster shutter speeds, you need a camera that has a high ISO, or at least something with which you can manipulate exposure. With the exception of the aforementioned F-10, most of the fixed-lens cameras won't give you high ISO, and certainly the mega-zooms won't have this feature. Of course many digicams can give you a good exposure at these lower light levels, but the shutter speed will be too low to capture moving subjects.

This is why the great shots of this type of subject, and for sports shots inside, are done with the dslr's. These are the only cameras that will give you a combination of zoom and high light sensitivity. Try to read the reviews for these types of cameras from Canon, Minolta, Olympus and Nikon....

PhilR.

Judy
05-22-2005, 04:42 PM
Ok. Now what if I'm always up really close to the stage and am using a Kodak EasyShare DX7590, how do you feel that one work work?

JTL
05-22-2005, 06:58 PM
Ok. Now what if I'm always up really close to the stage and am using a Kodak EasyShare DX7590, how do you feel that one work work?I have to give a thumbs down on the DX7590 for your stated application...it's horribly noisy above ISO 100 (pictures are unusable at ISO 400 and can't even be saved by Noise Ninja), the image quality in general is not that good (in my opinion), there's no manual WB, no manual focus, it's an ultra zoom with no image stablization. Frankly, I think your concert shots would come out looking like junk...

speaklightly
05-22-2005, 07:27 PM
Judy-

JTL is correct. The DX-7590 does leave a lot to be desired at high (400 ISO max) settings. You might be much better off considering the Fuji F-10, which can take good digital photos at ISO settings up to 1600 (that is in less than 25% of the light needed for the DX-7590). The F-10 can just take better digital photos with 75% less light and no flash, and very little noise, whereas the Kodak DX-7590 cannot.

Attached is an example of a no flash digital photo with the Fuji F-10 set at ISO 1600.

Sarah Joyce

PhilR.
05-22-2005, 07:29 PM
Ok. Now what if I'm always up really close to the stage and am using a Kodak EasyShare DX7590, how do you feel that one work work?

I feel that the 7590 will not work, because it is not a dslr....

If you can get close to the stage and can get by with 3x zoom, then the only one that I can immediately think of that might have a chance of working is the Fuji F-10, which has already been mentioned....

PhilR.

Judy
05-23-2005, 02:11 PM
Thanks guys. Guess you've sold me on the Fuji F-10. I've read mostly good stuff regarding, only a few put downs. But as you know what I want it for, I'm going with your suggestions! Thanks Again!

Judy
05-23-2005, 02:20 PM
Sorry, another question after going to the Fuji site. What is the difference in the S7000, S20 Pro & F810 compared to the F-10? I just want to try and get the best.