andyn
05-06-2005, 10:15 AM
I have had the opportunity to do some sports (boy's soccer) photography with the FZ20 and thought I'd share my experiences as there have been several discussions of this in the past.
My first caution is to expect a very low success rate. I'm only getting about 10-15%, even counting shots that I crop/adjust etc, and I've been shooting most weekends since the autumn. The viewfinder is truly awful - though adding an eyecup has proved very worthwhile. So I'm shooting hundreds of shots. This is partly because I've been shooting from positions in the stadium as I'm not an "official" photographer. A lot of blurring. But realistically I am getting more decent shots than I'd ever have managed with my old Nikon film gear. Of course maybe I would do better with an SLR and monster stablised lenses, but that's really not an option.
The best way to get the camera to set high shutter speeds is to opt for Aperture priority and set to F2.8. Depth of field is pretty good (sometimes too good) so the wide aperture doesn't give a problem. The only time you might need to change from this is if the light's too bright. I found the Sports mode made sub optimal decisions on auto ASA so don't use it.
400ASA is worth considering, even in fairly good light. There's so much movement in sport, especially at full telephoto, that a sharp shot at the higher speed, corrected for noise, will look better than a slightly blurred one. This is especially so at full telephoto, where blurring is a big issue. I accidentally left the speed setting at 400 for an entire match recently and I was surprised at the quality of the results. I suspect ASA400 performance is really the camera struggling to get enough light in low light situations. When used in good light the performance was much more acceptable - though still needed correction.
Combined with the viewfinder, the autofocus lag is a nightmare. Its fine for most uses but when you pick up speed it always seems to slow down! Can't make up my mind how good the Continuous Auto Focus is. It barely seems to make any difference - maybe I'm doing something wrong.
Bear in mind that white sports kit nearly always burns out if the light is bright. Its often worth underexposing a little to retain detail - and noise is normally well controlled in good light.
Get as big and fast an SD Card as you can. They're much cheaper now.
Always carry a spare battery.
Digital zoom does have its very occasional uses.....For my amateur purposes, a blurry shot of a boy ecstatic at having scored a goal on the other side of the stadium is very much better than no shot at all.
If you'd like to see the pictures, they are at http://andynorman.myphotoalbum.com
I hope these tips may be of use to someone.
Andy
My first caution is to expect a very low success rate. I'm only getting about 10-15%, even counting shots that I crop/adjust etc, and I've been shooting most weekends since the autumn. The viewfinder is truly awful - though adding an eyecup has proved very worthwhile. So I'm shooting hundreds of shots. This is partly because I've been shooting from positions in the stadium as I'm not an "official" photographer. A lot of blurring. But realistically I am getting more decent shots than I'd ever have managed with my old Nikon film gear. Of course maybe I would do better with an SLR and monster stablised lenses, but that's really not an option.
The best way to get the camera to set high shutter speeds is to opt for Aperture priority and set to F2.8. Depth of field is pretty good (sometimes too good) so the wide aperture doesn't give a problem. The only time you might need to change from this is if the light's too bright. I found the Sports mode made sub optimal decisions on auto ASA so don't use it.
400ASA is worth considering, even in fairly good light. There's so much movement in sport, especially at full telephoto, that a sharp shot at the higher speed, corrected for noise, will look better than a slightly blurred one. This is especially so at full telephoto, where blurring is a big issue. I accidentally left the speed setting at 400 for an entire match recently and I was surprised at the quality of the results. I suspect ASA400 performance is really the camera struggling to get enough light in low light situations. When used in good light the performance was much more acceptable - though still needed correction.
Combined with the viewfinder, the autofocus lag is a nightmare. Its fine for most uses but when you pick up speed it always seems to slow down! Can't make up my mind how good the Continuous Auto Focus is. It barely seems to make any difference - maybe I'm doing something wrong.
Bear in mind that white sports kit nearly always burns out if the light is bright. Its often worth underexposing a little to retain detail - and noise is normally well controlled in good light.
Get as big and fast an SD Card as you can. They're much cheaper now.
Always carry a spare battery.
Digital zoom does have its very occasional uses.....For my amateur purposes, a blurry shot of a boy ecstatic at having scored a goal on the other side of the stadium is very much better than no shot at all.
If you'd like to see the pictures, they are at http://andynorman.myphotoalbum.com
I hope these tips may be of use to someone.
Andy