Setting EV to -1/3

[tonyb109]

What is the purpose of setting EV to either -1/3 or -2/3. What effect is obtained? Thanks

[pixelator]

What is the purpose of setting EV to either -1/3 or -2/3. What effect is obtained? Thanks
That are more difficult to correct that dark shadows.
But in sunny landscapes, I prefer not to use subexposition.
Greetings

[emalvick]

EV basically defines the exposure the camera uses in automatic mode. As far as the camera "thinks" and EV of 0 is the "perfect" exposure for your shot.

If you are in automatic, aperture priority, or shutter priority, the camera will automatically choose its settings to get that EV. However, you may find, as most people do, that at an EV of 0, the photos tend to be overexposed. If you set the EV to -1/3 or -2/3 you are forcing the camera to choose exposure settings that underexpose the image by a step or two from what it considers perfect.

I find that I am varying my settings between all three of those due to the subject I'm shooting. On a bright day, with a lot of sun, and perhaps a lot of white, I will tend to use -2/3. In darker situations 0 and in between maybe -1/3. I find that the histogram and setting the preview image to flash for overexposed areas helps. If I get a right shifted histogram or I have a lot of my image flashing, I'll shift the EV down a notch. I think I probably do that more than I use the fully manual mode.

Erik

[pixelator]

and mainly if there is a lot of white , the camera tends to subexpose the photo, and if besides you add to it subexposition...

[genece]

I think this is a great explanation



EV basically defines the exposure the camera uses in automatic mode. As far as the camera "thinks" and EV of 0 is the "perfect" exposure for your shot.

If you are in automatic, aperture priority, or shutter priority, the camera will automatically choose its settings to get that EV. However, you may find, as most people do, that at an EV of 0, the photos tend to be overexposed. If you set the EV to -1/3 or -2/3 you are forcing the camera to choose exposure settings that underexpose the image by a step or two from what it considers perfect.

I find that I am varying my settings between all three of those due to the subject I'm shooting. On a bright day, with a lot of sun, and perhaps a lot of white, I will tend to use -2/3. In darker situations 0 and in between maybe -1/3. I find that the histogram and setting the preview image to flash for overexposed areas helps. If I get a right shifted histogram or I have a lot of my image flashing, I'll shift the EV down a notch. I think I probably do that more than I use the fully manual mode.

Erik

And while you do not want an underexpose photo (it promotes noise) once the highlites are blown they can not be retrieved. So underexposed is better
than overexposed. IMHO

[andyn]

[QUOTE=genece]I think this is a great explanation

I'd second that and add that for me its one of the best things about the camera. Set it to auto review for 1 sec and to flash on overexposure. then if it flashes all it takes is a flick of the thumb to reset exposure. Generally, the more flashing the more you need to correct exposure. Similarly, if the shot looks a bit dark, go the other way (though I find the FZ20 tends towards overexposure). Could hardly be easier!

[emalvick]

I should add in regards to the underexposure thing...

I often take my shots at -2/3, but if I don't see any flashing in the review, and I feel the image could go up a notch, I do take it up a notch. With a 1 GB SD card, I feel I can get away with a few shots. I suppose the bracket function could be useful in this regard. You may want to try the bracket function to see how the EV setting works.

[trooplewis]

I keep mine permanently set at -1/3
In addition, outdoors I almost always use auto bracketing, and set that at 1/3.

I find that when I crop, there are areas I didn't think would be overexposed, but are.. I end up using the -2/3 shot I got from the auto-bracket.